Modifying an LGB Post Van...

jameshilton

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Modifying an LGB Post Van

I'm going to share with you guys my latest detailing project - and first in G - based on the popular and long running LGB Post Van. I managed to secure one in good condition from Paul (miniman's of this parish) with the intention of using it as a test bed for tinkering in the larger scale! Please feel free to chip in, make suggestions or ask questions. I'm going to write in a conversational article type style, so that this can become a record for anyone wanting to follow in my footsteps at a later date.

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Step One: Dissassembly
First impressions - solid construction and quality materials. The LGB models are renowned for this, however as the first one I've taken apart I am really impressed. The model is in 'used' condition so I've had to repair some steps and re-attach the corner bracing of the buffer beam but it all seems solid.

Start by removing the roof - the simply unclips. It is secured by four plastic tabs, located about 1/3 and 2/3 down the body. By opening the doors the body can be eased out slightly and the roof popped out.
Unscrew the light (if one is fitted) and put the screws safely to one side.

Whilst the model is still upright gently ease out the ornate roof porch supports from each side, then remove the lamps from the body - on this model they are simply clipped over the top of the body.

Remove the parcel desk from the rear compartment, and ease out the light bulb by gently gripping the brass collar. Also remove the light bulbs from the lamps by gripping the collar. Store the lamp bodys and desk carefully.

Flip the body over so you're looking at the underframe.

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The next step is to remove the steps (pun intended). By removing the steps, you can also gently remove the sliding doors. The steps are secured by 2 screws each - remove these and store carefully.


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Once the steps are removed you need to un-solder the lighting connections from the plunger pickups. Once these are removed you then need to un-screw the 4 retaining screws located in each corner of the chassis. Once the body is removed the end verandah of the underframe simple lifts away so do not be concerned if this falls off at this stage.


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The model will then be stripped down into it's component parts and is at a suitable level for detailing and getting ready for priming.

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I have carefully removed the stickers using a small 'chisel' type blade in my craft knife. 1200 wet and dry paper was used to remove the markings from the sides.

I have also removed the horizontal bars from the guards compartment windows, gently cutting them out and tidying up the opening with a needle file.

The model was then cleaned with a cloth moistened with thinners to remove dust and grease build up in preparation for priming.

Step Two: Priming (next!)
 

jameshilton

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Step Two: Priming

Well we're running a day or so behind now - as these were taken last night before I applied the first of the airbrushed top coats. The window with the horizontal bars removed can be seen in this first shot, and the substantial masking - I used DIY store (B&Q IIRC) professional masking tape, and Halfords Plastic Primer in grey to apply several light coats over a 10 minute period.

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The doors were a little more tricky. I laid these flat and sprayed from all angles, careful to move the latch half way. By dusting on lightly you avoid clogging detail and stopping the latch from operating.


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I'll take a few photos of how she stands at present tonight.
I've decided on a satin black roof and satin dark grey bodywork - to be finished with some custom white transfers (more on that later).

Step Three: Painting (next!)
 

nicebutdim

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Looking good there James, can't wait to see it finished!
 

jameshilton

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Thanks! (Tim? - as in nicebutdim?) - I've done the artwork now for the transfers so tonight I'll get the photos of the painted body and roof up - and also a post on how I've done the artwork.
 

jameshilton

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Step Three: Painting

So on to painting and you've a few options here... for pretty generic colours you can get a reasonable range from Halfords - and their rattle cans give a very good finish. I was tempted to use one for the roof, but the price is prohibitive (£7 a can). I plumped for my usual Humbrol enamel tinlets, excellent finish, hard wearing and although a lot less paint, a lot cheaper!

I got an airbrush last year for my birthday - a £100 set from Expo tools - with a small compressor and top feed, internal mix airbrush. This has produced some great results in my 4mm weathering world, but the airbrush isn't as flexible as my older Badger 200 for just spraying a solid colour - especially on a G-scale model - however it has turned out alright!

I mix the Humbrol paints thoroughly by shaking for at least a minute and then stirring with a metal stirrer for 30-60 seconds in each direction until there is no sediment left at all. This is then diluted about 60/40% with white spirit before being de-canted in to the airbrush.

The finish is built up slowly working in all directions from all angles, especially with the size of the G-scale models to ensure that all areas are adequately covered - then left to dry.

The photo shows the model placed together after the first coat - a second will be applied before progressing to the next Step.

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Step Four: Transfer (next)



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jameshilton

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Thank you - I'm not actually that good with detail and usually rush!!! Hehe - taking my time on this one, just finished cleaning up the airbrush after applying a second coat. The grey has darkened up nicely - so it's darker than it looks in the pics.

The transfers are coming along - learning a lot about ALPS printers from my contact (John at Precision Labels) helping me put the sheet together - enough to do the Stainz, two coaches, one wagon, the shunter AND this van just on a small A5 sheet (fingers crossed). I'll discuss that more next once the artwork is finalised :)
 

bobg

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I mix the Humbrol paints thoroughly. This is then diluted about 60/40% with white spirit before being de-canted in to the airbrush.

Nice work James. Have you ever tried using cellulose thinners with Humbrol paint? I know Humbrol has changed hands some time ago so the formulation may have as well, but I used to do that years ago (probably when I was your age :thinking: ). It sounds plain wrong, but it used to work and gave a superb finish.
Edit : - The other thing was it dried much quicker which was great for keeping the dust at bay.
 

Steve

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A work of art , thankyou for the ideas for what to do with my post van ,it always amazes me how much talent there is on this forum. Cant wait to see more progress :D
 

Woderwick

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In my experience cellulose and enamel dont go. Also you might want to try genuine turpentine (not substitute) for thinning Humbrol enamel, it makes for a better mix than white spirit. Most good artist shops will stock it.
 

trammayo

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Nice thread - clear and concise!

Mick
 

bobg

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Woderwick said:
In my experience cellulose and enamel dont go. Also you might want to try genuine turpentine (not substitute) for thinning Humbrol enamel, it makes for a better mix than white spirit. Most good artist shops will stock it.

Like I said Wod it sounds 'plain wrong'. I've tried it with other enamels and it IS, but with old Hunbrol it worked.
 

jameshilton

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Chaps the White Spirit I have used works ok and is cheap but if I had the money I'd use the Humbrol thinners sold for the purpose :)

Thank you for all the kind comments - all I've really done so far is clean up, strip down and spray an old model. These skills are honed from years in 4mm where you have to keep things clean and use good quality paint preparation techniques if you want a good finish. My 4mm blog (http://paxton-road.blogspot.com/ ) has more detail of that work. I hope the description on how I've created the transfers will be of real interest - more on that later. I've got the ok from John - just need to adjust the position of the graphics on the page to get a better use of the transfer paper - once that's done I'll post up about it.

I'll leave the body, steps, doors and roof a few days now for the paint to really go hard. Then I'll be starting to pick out the details in paint - door handles, locks, window frames and the sliding door latches. I'll also be painting the lamps all black. I tend to put quick updates up on my blog rather than the detailed posts I'm trying to make on here - so if you're impatient that's always worth a look!

http://ejklr.blogspot.com/
 

Gizzy

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Looking forward to seeing this project completed James....
 

yb281

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Great job James. Have you tried using acrylic paints with your airbrush? Makes diluting and cleaning a heck of a lot easier (and cheaper) in my experience.
 

CoggesRailway

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wow just looked at the 4mm blog. crikey you're good- my thing is just runing trains in the garden- but can appreciate talent and hardwork when I see it. I thought I recognised the layout name and as it turned out I saw it in traction magazine. well done!
 

jameshilton

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Thanks a lot guys - your kind words mean a lot :)

yb281: as for acrylic, I've tried them in the past and couldn't get on with them, they seemed to dry in the airbrush and generally weren't quite as flexible (for me) as oils... everyone has their own preference though - I know many don't rate the Humbrol tinlets, but I find them perfect for my needs :)
 

jameshilton

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Step Four: Transfers

One of the wonders of modelling these days is the ability to have custom transfers made up. You can even do this at home with products like Crafty Computer Paper - however in this situation I needed to print white - and to do that you need an ALPS type printer.

In the past I have commissioned John at http://www.precisionlabels.co.uk/ < Link To Precision Labels to make up a set to my specifications and he has done all the hard work! He's done a set for a Northern Rail pacer and some custom name plates for me - both to a very high standard. However this time as I wanted quite a complex mix of transfers I enquired about designing my own and getting him to print them for me - which he said was possible and gave me some tips to start.

I've used Adobe Photoshop as some of the artwork here is borrowed from graphics I've found elsewhere on the internet, and then cut/modified to suit my requirements - however a drawing package such as Corel Draw or Adobe Illustrator is equally capable of producing the required format. For a simple 'one colour' print like this you need to ensure the 'black' you are using is RGB (so set up in RGB mode to start with) and set at 0,0,0 otherwise you can get a dither pattern in the printer.

The font used on European rolling stock for the smaller lettering is quite distinctive and I recognised that I didn't have anything suitable in my font library. The beauty of the internet is you can find out everything so after a 2 minute Google search I'd determined the name of the font required (DIN 1451) and a further 2 mins found a free copy of the font for download - perfectly legal for this private use although perhaps you'd need to purchase it if you were producing things in large quantities.

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I then set up the Photoshop page at A4, 300dpi and set to work copying photos (both prototype and models) to get the required set for the post van, the Stainz, the shunter and the Zillertal coaches - I've also added enough to do the open wagon when that is tackled on the workbench. I'm particularly pleased with the Stainz ones as they'll transform the starter set model into an almost exact copy of the £250 version available - although that has sound and smoke I believe.

It is worth mentioning the massive amount of help John gave me in creating these in both terms of advice and how to minimise the complexity and cost of producing them.
The total cost for these custom decals will be less than £15 delivered. Well worth giving him an email if you're after something special too!

Step Five: Detail painting (next)


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DoctorM

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jameshilton said:
Step Four: Transfers

James, I realise that the work you produce is of very high quality, and you seem to have good attention to detail, so
I hope you don't think I'm nit-picking......

The thing that jumps out at me when viewing your proposed transfers is the excessive white space between the "r" and "t" in the word "Zillertalbahn".

Adjusting this is, I believe, known in the graphics trade as "Kerning". Certain letter combinations are notorious for this, and in your case I think there may also be too much space between the "t" and the following "a" too.

If you compare your graphics with those on a commercially produced Zillertal wagon you'll see what I mean.

I hope this message has got to you before you commissioned the print - if not, sorry I spoke!
 

jameshilton

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DoctorM - no problem! Thanks for the observations. The issue with that image is it's resized JPG - the original PDF (with clear background) is fine - the Zillertal logo was actually 'borrowed' from a graphic I found on the web to just leave me with the text - I then drew in the border manually.