Mk 1 coach in G

John
The mk1s sides are flat the body curves in from the windows down so the roof edges are wider than the floor, the profile of the ends of your coach look more like gresley (Flying scotsman) type coaches the curve gets tighter as the sides get lower almost to the point of tucking in flat and then you have the exposed chassis rail. the mk2 has the same profile but the bottom of the curve covers the chassis rail
Hope this helps keep up the great work
tony
 
Quite remarable! While some are crying in their beer (having spent a couple of grand to see their team lose) you get on with something useful. You are a prolific modelmaker! I wondered what you were going to build next - now I know! Can't wait to see further postings. I notice you enlarge or copy drawings to the size you want. I do the same (do you use the PC like I do?). Great job.

Mick
 
Which type of coach are you making. I've got a load of the Bachmann Mk1's so could take a few pics if you like?
 
RJR said:
its the mark 1 non gangway, as in lots of doors down the side
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Hi John
Thats called a subburban ? you mean seperate compartments you have to go outside to get into the next with 2 bench seats facing each other and a door both sides, thats got to be the hardest one to start with but i have no doubt

Tony
 
Looks interesting what bogies are you using are they the LGB Rhb coach bogies and if so where did you get them
 
It just gets better and better.
I will be very interested in how you curve the roof over the tops of the windows.
A while ago I bought an RhB van body with a view to converting it into a small electric loco but I haven't a clue as to how I will get the roof to stay the right shape.
All agog.:bigsmile:
 
John the profile looks spot on top man top job
i have wonderfull memories going to school in suburban coaches in the sixties
only one thing not really worth a mention but. no i wont say anything

Tony

oh ok then
while prob not unheard of but a 25 pulling a subburban coach would not have been a common sight so you will have to next build a couple of suburban EMU or DMU end units to fit either end

No you are correct john im being far to picky rule 8 and all that

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Fantastic John,

I dont know how you keep the card so clean, I always get marks all over it

You said -> Two reasons I have made the side up in sections,
1) they are easier to handle
2) I wanted to get the doors to look like they are separate.

Now if I were doing it there would be a third reason
3) so when my hand slipped & a window ended up less than square I could discard just a short bit & not the whole side :rolf:


Q? do you shamfer the door edges so as not to loose the joint when paint is applied?
 
Granitechops said:
Fantastic John,
I dont know how you keep the card so clean, I always get marks all over it
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I've worked this one out, Don.
John works so damn fast that there isn't time for the dust to settle, or the muck to stick !
I wish I was that neat.

Keep up the good work, John !
 
Gutter as roof

I tried it 6 years ago when I built this coach, its 30 ins long

the gutter was too round, so I made a thick wood insert smaller than the coach width,

left about 3/4 inch gap at peak of roof, drilled through roof & wood at about 4 inch intervals along the centreline

inserted bolts & nuts & tightened up gradually till it got to the right shape / width

Hot water has no effect on this plastic its built to resist the suns heat

It worked as the outer bolt heads were disguised as vents

But

the construction method added too much weight & too high up


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RJR said:
Alpineandy said:
How do you get such neat cuts in plasticard, mine just seem to wander about.
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I'm sure others have better answers but I find my cuts wander when I'm lazy and try and cut plastic rather than take my time and score it.


Use a decent steel rule, and a sharp blade. Make shallow light movements to score the top surface of the plastic then applying pressure from behind the cut snap the plastic along the score. You don't need to cut it all the way through. That takes longer and usually results in less than straight lines.


Windows are the same, score the 4 sides, usually a score only needs to be half the depth of the plastic.
Once the scoring is done, start at one corner and score to the centre, repeat for all 4 corners until the diagonal scores go all the way through creating a "diagonal cross" the 4 triangles formed can now be snapped out along the scored edges.

If anyone not use to using plasticard would be interested I could do some "how tos" with pictures, but I don't want to teach my grandma to suck eggs.
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I would greatly welcome any "how to" pics and details please.
 
Yes please, a how to, step by step

one thing I have found is that when doing longer cuts, it pays to CLAMP the straight edge while scoring, saves blade wandering when edge slips while concentrating on the blade,

slows things up though, but you dont have to do it a second time :thumbup:
 
This really is a great thread and now we will get a blow by blow account of cutting plasticard! what I need is a tutorial on how to get the blood stains off plasticard....................................
 
The term "Balloon coach" usually refers to push pull coaches that were common on the LBSCR, usually one or two coupled to a Terrier, E4 or similar. The LBSCR coaching stoch had a small loading guage (one of the reasons ex London Underground stock was sent to the Isle of Wight to replace the ex LBSCR coaches that ran until the demnise of steam.

There were some main line sets also.

The Balloon coaches were large by comparison and had a bloated appearence so hence the name.
 
Granitechops said:
Yes please, a how to, step by step

one thing I have found is that when doing longer cuts, it pays to CLAMP the straight edge while scoring, saves blade wandering when edge slips while concentrating on the blade,

slows things up though, but you dont have to do it a second time :thumbup:
Click to expand...

Also, never, never, never cut along the bevelled edge of a straightedge unless you really want to lose the end of a finger!! :-:crying:
Use only the right angled flat side.
 
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