Mi First construction with foam

Fantastic
 
Jaime said:
Thank you very much to all. I really believe that the result was better than I expected, that's why I decided to show it to you. I do not have much experience in this type of construction, but the difficulty of finding 1:32 models in the market prompted me to do so. Otherwise, the system is fast, only enamels are used in the first layer of paint, the rest are acrylic colors, which dry very fast. In two weeks I built it, which is not enough considering that I worked a few minutes or a couple of hours when I got home after work. I encourage you to observe the landscape where you live, I imagine that England must have beautiful buildings that can imitate.

Best regards from Chile

Jaime
Click to expand...
Jaime I concur that your Buildings are superb. Though a picture tells a thousand words some of the Techniques are perhaps a little lost without some words. Most I get but the revealed Brickwork how did you achieve this? Did you hack away some of the Foam and put in Individual Bricks with some filler to blend in the sides?
 
dunnyrail said:
Jaime I concur that your Buildings are superb. Though a picture tells a thousand words some of the Techniques are perhaps a little lost without some words. Most I get but the revealed Brickwork how did you achieve this? Did you hack away some of the Foam and put in Individual Bricks with some filler to blend in the sides?
Click to expand...
Hi

Thanks for your words, and really, the brickwork deserves a more detailed explanation. This house is my first building made for my 1:32 layout, and the brickwork is different to how I do it now. Here I work with 1:32 bricks from juweela brand, but the results are very homogeneous, the bricks are very perfects, very news, and I prefer the wheatered walls. The mini WC attached now is made with the new technique that I use. First I ´ve made tools from old paintbrushes without bristles. Then I shaped the ferrules into the form desired with fine pliers.image.jpg

This tool is used to emboss the surface in the foam, I used a metal ruler as guide. Missing bricks or fisures can be simulated with a needle.


Then two coats of humbrol 28 were applied with a wide brush


Polish the surface with 400-grade sandpaper (after 48 hours) to give the bricks a texture.
The brickwork is painted with acrylic paints by Talens, burnt Sienna 411 and red 339, mixed with matt black or simply just this two colours in various mixes.

F932CA9F-1DEE-4FB6-9F77-77503A9365E3.jpeg
The mortar courses between the bricks are simulated using white pigments applied overall, onto the surface of the bricks with an old, wide brush

8006DCE6-2395-4CED-972D-7C7ED13BD315.jpeg


After the excess pigment has been blown out, the remaining can be embedded into the joins with just your fingers.

More shades of acrylics colours were given to random selected individual bricks with a fine number 2 size brush

Green pigments can be applied for simulate the humidity.

5C6CA513-FD02-4CC9-ACA0-737D57301505.jpeg


Best regards

Jaime
 
Brilliant!
 
Jaime said:
View attachment 230167
Click to expand...
Many thanks Jaime, I was asking about the process of the Brickwork that is in this picture where Brickwork has been revealed by the Surface Render being detached. There are clearly a few different techniques occurring here. But the other processes were also most interesting and informative as well.
 
Thanks Jaime. You make it look easy but I bet it's really difficult to get that sort of finish. Like Jon, I'd be intetested to see how you get the effect of cracked and peeling plaster as with your first building.

Rik
 
ge_rik said:
Thanks Jaime. You make it look easy but I bet it's really difficult to get that sort of finish. Like Jon, I'd be intetested to see how you get the effect of cracked and peeling plaster as with your first building.

Rik
Click to expand...
Ohh, ok , well, I am used “ready to use” plaster, in Chile “pasta muro”, a product for wall repair. The first step is to apply a thin coat of approximately 1 mm on the foam surface. When it has dried, I draw cracks with a pencil then I used a needle or a ophthalmic micro knife (disposable) , both are good. The engraving really is soft, however, of the groove is too deep, you can always rectify it by applying more plaster.

75D9F3A0-0E62-466E-BA34-33C000A0EE10.jpeg


Then I used the paints, first 2 coats of Humbrol 28, then more humbrol enamels , gray and beige, alternately with a synthetic sponge, in small areas. The aim is to blend the colours. The cracks are underlined with matt white enamel or with ivory o white acrylic paint (Vallejo brand).
Now I used the heavy chipping fluid (Ak interactive), 2 coats with a large flat brush. Then I paint the surface with acrylic colours, with sponge too. I used Vallejo stone gray, dark gray, ivory, and white. Mixed together onto the surface to obtain infinite combinations of colours typical to the rendering of old stucco.
Then it´s the lenght stage regarding chipping with clear water.
Here a video with the chipping process, you can see the old blue paint imitation.


Well, I accept questions, my english is regular, but I tried to explain the complete process

Best regards

Jaime
 
I think your English is fine, better than my Spanish! But with modelling as good as this, who needs language?
 
Thanks Jaime
That makes perfect sense, thanks. Just a quick question, is your pasta muro a ready-to-use paste or a powder which needs to be mixed with water when you buy it? It sounds like something we call "Polyfilla".

Rik
 
ge_rik said:
Thanks Jaime
That makes perfect sense, thanks. Just a quick question, is your pasta muro a ready-to-use paste or a powder which needs to be mixed with water when you buy it? It sounds like something we call "Polyfilla".

Rik
Click to expand...
Hello Rik

The product is ready to use, coat the surface 1 mm aprox, wait to dried, apply a fine sand paper, and you can apply a new coat for leveling, then wait to dried, and sand paper again. Polyfilla?, may be , you must try... there is another products that I think exists in UK

READY TO USE FILLER | Toupret

To know everything on Toupret READY TO USE FILLER Substrates, applications methods, overcoating, formats, documentation and videos
www.toupret.co.uk www.toupret.co.uk

I think that is the same to Pollyfilla

Have a nice day

Jaime
 
ge_rik said:
Thanks Jaime
That makes perfect sense, thanks. Just a quick question, is your pasta muro a ready-to-use paste or a powder which needs to be mixed with water when you buy it? It sounds like something we call "Polyfilla".

Rik
Click to expand...
Sounds very much like an internal Wall Plaster as you say Rik. Not sure how that would fare outside in the UK Frost. Similar effects that will live outside can be carried out using External Grade Wall Tile Adhesive. This building was done with some many years ago like back in the mid 1980’s so is allowed to be a little weather worn now. Only problem is that one needs to buy in in pretty large packets, but not so large as a bag of Cement. Back in those days I would not have been aware of the benefits of pre coating with External Grade PVA and perhaps using a little very sloppy PVA mixed in the water when mixingimage.jpg sorry to hijack your build Jaime.
 
ge_rik said:
Thanks Jaime
That makes perfect sense, thanks. Just a quick question, is your pasta muro a ready-to-use paste or a powder which needs to be mixed with water when you buy it? It sounds like something we call "Polyfilla".

Rik
Click to expand...
One thing more, “pasta muro” exists in two versions, for interior and for exteriors, the second option does not work, it’s not crack with the needle, it’s similar to plastic.
 
dunnyrail said:
Sounds very much like an internal Wall Plaster as you say Rik. Not sure how that would fare outside in the UK Frost. Similar effects that will live outside can be carried out using External Grade Wall Tile Adhesive. This building was done with some many years ago like back in the mid 1980’s so is allowed to be a little weather worn now. Only problem is that one needs to buy in in pretty large packets, but not so large as a bag of Cement. Back in those days I would not have been aware of the benefits of pre coating with External Grade PVA and perhaps using a little very sloppy PVA mixed in the water when mixingView attachment 250913 sorry to hijack your build Jaime.
Click to expand...
Jejeje no problem!!!!! Thanks for show your experience!!!!

For me the interior filler doesnˋt problem, I keep my buildings inside the house

Jaime
 
Jaime said:
One thing more, “pasta muro” exists in two versions, for interior and for exteriors, the second option does not work, it’s not crack with the needle, it’s similar to plastic.
Click to expand...
Interior = internal
Exterior = outside, outdoor

Sorry
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom