Making sleepers/ties

PhilP

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Igor,
I am curious about the 'putty'?

In the UK, Putty is made (soft) with linseed oil, and used for 'old-schoo' (traditional) glazing, to seal and fix glass into window frames (wooden)..

There is a 'mastic' used for glazing in metal frames..

Would your 'putty' be what we call silicon sealant?

PhilP
 

Paul M

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Interesting read Igor. If only I had the space!
 
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dunnyrail

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You now what the funny part is...you dont have to buy the equipment that i have....not this big or expensive.(this is just my hobby shed and for my house wood working shed btw)....get it smaller and it will also get the job done
With best regards Igor, i hope it was a pleasant read....
Interesting reminded me of my home made track circa 1985-1995. I used Flat Bottom Bonds Rail with ‘7’ shaped pins to hold the rail down. Lot of work but it lasted long after I moved over to Peco track at a friends line in Reading.
 

Gizzy

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Impressive work Igor....
 

justme igor

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Igor,
I am curious about the 'putty'?
Putty is a word I learned on this site that I thought it would stand for "thick glue"

In the UK, Putty is made (soft) with linseed oil, and used for 'old-schoo' (traditional) glazing, to seal and fix glass into window frames (wooden)..
Yes, the same thing we have here in the Netherlands, it was called freely translated: thick paint/stop paint( "stop verf" in dutch)
It would harden very slowly but very durable.
When i was in carpeting school they thought me this (35 years ago), when i bought my house those windows still had it(now it has 3 glass btw) but still doing the job.
Yes time has changed the materials we work with.
There is a 'mastic' used for glazing in metal frames..

Would your 'putty' be what we call silicon sealant?
We call the mastic and use the mastic in our bathrooms and some times in the kitchens indeed silicon sealer.
For paint (acually before the painter) we use often acrylic "putty"

The putty i am referring to is indeed more for constructional use, to bond or glue several materials to several materials, when ever you want to glue down lead sheets or oxidised alu or other not easy bonding materials, we use polymax, it is polymer based i thought.
If you want to know exactly i will dive into it, no problem.

This polymer based stuff, "thick glue" "putty" can glue aluminium tight with wood, it makes a stronger bond than the cheaper silicon or arcrilic based nephews.
How would you call this? i would like to expand my technical English, with every opportunity i can get, sorry.

But the way you describe your putty is indeed very old school, never the less i like it, just like bone glue, i think you know exactly what i am talking about...smells like h... when you are preparing it, yet one of the best wood to wood glues....
I also know some other very old recipes...some are not even allowed anymore...
I really think i am one of the last "batch" old fashioned master carpenters...

The stuff from "4teck" is a cheaper alternative..."polymax" is 6.50 euro a tube, "4tech" is 3.50 euro a tube(both ex tax btw) lets see how the 4tech will survive the winter.

On the existing tracks: Ploy-max is still going strong, still holding on, it takes a lot of force to get the components separated, but how much force there is needed to keep the tracks together, not so much.
And 4teck is 3x cheaper in there coluerd putty.

Brings back the discussion of cutting the slots right to fit...hardwood against softwood
A: finding a saw blade that is exactly 2.000mm in thickness or 1.995-1.99mm in thickness(hard wood is not that forgiving, soft wood you can wedge your 2mm strip into a slot of 1.8mm without any issues)
B: the gauge, hard wood is a lot harder to handle than soft wood regarding to gauge, with hard wood you will need to be more precise....on the 10th of a mm...soft wood exept a tolerance of almost 1 mm if your mould is correct to the size of your gauge.
C: make your mould/jig as true (your slots on exactly! 90 degree angle )as possible when working with hardwood or you will get a not nice strait track....i think i still have them, it was a failed experiment, if i still have the i will post a picture.
I work with aluminium strip 2mm and not steel strip 3 mm thick( what they did at staverns)
I hope this answer will cover all your questions, if not or if there is any question left, please feel free to ask

With best regards Igor
 

justme igor

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Interesting read Igor. If only I had the space!
There are some "combined" small machinery, and they will not use so much space, but i can not take a look in your home.
Minimum space for this kind of stuff and work space required would be a minimum of 3 squire meters, inls walking space and 1 (one) mold to glue your tracks OR cut your slots into your sleepers.
A working space of 2 by 4 meters will give you production opportunity.
A working space of 3 by 6 meters would give you "all you want to make space" regarding track making.
4 x 8 meters working space you can even start a store and sell the stuff.
I hope this was helpful for your own endeavours.
 

justme igor

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Interesting reminded me of my home made track circa 1985-1995. I used Flat Bottom Bonds Rail with ‘7’ shaped pins to hold the rail down. Lot of work but it lasted long after I moved over to Peco track at a friends line in Reading.
I think i saw your posts, if i am right, then you are one of the 5 that inspired me to proceed to do what i am doing now.
Do you still have a link or a photo or any something?
Thanks in advance(also for other people to help them further on the road, hey, it was helpfully for me!)

With best regards Igor
 

justme igor

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Impressive work Igor....
Thanks for your compliment, but, if i am not mistaking you did something simulair that was also helping me to get me where i am wright now.
If i remember correctly
 

The Shed

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justme igor justme igor

Regarding your 'goo'


I used this, which appears similar, to stick all manner of materials, glass, wood, metal, ceramic, and recycled plastic.
As an indication of how strong the bond is.. in our previous home, the glass cooker splashback was attached to a wall with this glue, the new occupant had to enlist the help of a builder, to remove part of the wall, could not get the splashback off by any other means! :lipssealed:

Soudal Fix All High Tack Adhesive & Sealant White 290ml
 

dunnyrail

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I think i saw your posts, if i am right, then you are one of the 5 that inspired me to proceed to do what i am doing now.
Do you still have a link or a photo or any something?
Thanks in advance(also for other people to help them further on the road, hey, it was helpfully for me!)

With best regards Igor
No link, will do a search for some pics and post.
 

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justme igor justme igor

Regarding your 'goo'


I used this, which appears similar, to stick all manner of materials, glass, wood, metal, ceramic, and recycled plastic.
As an indication of how strong the bond is.. in our previous home, the glass cooker splashback was attached to a wall with this glue, the new occupant had to enlist the help of a builder, to remove part of the wall, could not get the splashback off by any other means! :lipssealed:

Soudal Fix All High Tack Adhesive & Sealant White 290ml
The Soudal Fix All is in a range of HYBRID adhesives. Hybrid adhesives are a modern improvement combining the qualities of traditional builders adhesives with the benefit of the flexibility of Silicone Sealants/Fillers. By coincidence I have used this one for my model buildings.

Well suited for model railway builders because of their permanent flexibility combined with the adhesion of regular builders adhesives.

They are UV resistant, will not shrink and crack and are paint-able.

Perfect for adhering aluminium to timber, the adhesive will not shrink or harden.

Perfect for outdoor buildings.

Various manufactures produce them, just look out for HYBRID in their description.

Alan

Igor, its very interesting following your trials, tribulations and honesty of your track building project

Alan
 

justme igor

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No link, will do a search for some pics and post.
It takes a good person and it takes and educated person to make me curios....
But i am not curios...i just want to know everything...(dutch saying freely translated)
But what is taking you so long...yes i want to know, yes you might call me "curios" oke?o_O :cool:

With best regards Igor
 

justme igor

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combining the qualities of traditional builders adhesives
Correct and not correct but i am a old school traditional builder(master carpenter old fashion type) a dieing race, sorry i am not going to explane
Those hybrids are very good and are very well known to me.
Soudal makes very good stuff but not top notch/top shelf in my opinion, they must stick to silicone and acrilc based putty's/goo.
But Soudal will get the job done perfectly for modellers(based in the Netherlands btw) just like 4teck from "groenhart".

They are UV resistant, will not shrink and crack and are paint-able.

Perfect for adhering aluminium to timber, the adhesive will not shrink or harden.

Perfect for outdoor buildings.

Various manufactures produce them, just look out for HYBRID in their description.
That is all you want,but no less, you hit the nail right on his head.


Igor, its very interesting following your trials, tribulations and honesty of your track building project
Thank you for your compliment, but to be honest from my side...I can do better, but Father time on his white horse.....obligations, my own company, building my own house..ect..
Yes i made mistakes, why not post them for others to learn from my mistakes or take a lesson from others how to improve, no matter how stupid the idea is, sometimes it works.
But making mistakes is probably the best learning advice.
I made around 500 meters of track, some turnouts/switches ect, and i am still improving and experimenting, you have no idea/epriancion(what is the correct word/spelling? i see a red line) of my dream that is so freaking close and doable to achieve....Amsterdam central station in 1936 complete rebuild...in model 10 by 50 meters approx, , thanks to my great grand father, he drove one of the heavies friet/postal trains in the Netherlands(pre war) NS number 6306, and god i know how much he would like to drive the AA20.
The Nazi's shot him of the train again in 1943, so he claimed his retirement.
I only must find out a way that my better half is going to get rid of her goats...
So now you know the why and my driving engine to make this perfect.

With best regards Igor
 

Paul M

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house..ect..
Yes i made mistakes, why not post them for others to learn from my mistakes or take a lesson from others how to improve, no matter how stupid the idea is, sometimes it works.
That's why I like reading your posts, you don't make it sound easy. Modelling and making things is hard, especially when you first start. And only practice makes it look easy
 

dunnyrail

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It takes a good person and it takes and educated person to make me curios....
But i am not curios...i just want to know everything...(dutch saying freely translated)
But what is taking you so long...yes i want to know, yes you might call me "curios" oke?o_O :cool:

With best regards Igor
Ok Igor here are some pics of my hand built track from May 1990. I did not wish to hijack your thread so a bit of what I did is linked below.

 

Technocrat

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Igor,

Have you considered pressure treated wood? It will last a ling time in weather without paint or stain, and after a time will weather like creosoted ties. Kind of an ugly green for a while though.
I have not tried it for ties yet, but have had good luck on other projects.

Ted
 

justme igor

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T Technocrat
Matter a fact, it is already aging, with a stain to give it some couleur.
In populieren wood, conniver and unknown (grenen?)from the store.
(tomorrow i will look up the English and Latin names, sorry not now)
But to be fare, i have sometimes free hard wood from my work, more wood than i could make ties/sleepers from.

But for the experimental thought, i tried some woods, lets see where they are at 5 years 10 15 and 20 years from now.
I think will put my money on azobe.

The experiment with foam pvc and paint that one will not let me go...this autumn i will make some track with that one.
The first experiment with cement and foam pvc ( thanks ge_rik ge_rik ) is still very successful.

With best regards Igor
 

Technocrat

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T Technocrat
Matter a fact, it is already aging, with a stain to give it some couleur.
In populieren wood, conniver and unknown (grenen?)from the store.
(tomorrow i will look up the English and Latin names, sorry not now)
But to be fare, i have sometimes free hard wood from my work, more wood than i could make ties/sleepers from.

But for the experimental thought, i tried some woods, lets see where they are at 5 years 10 15 and 20 years from now.
I think will put my money on azobe.

The experiment with foam pvc and paint that one will not let me go...this autumn i will make some track with that one.
The first experiment with cement and foam pvc ( thanks ge_rik ge_rik ) is still very successful.

With best regards Igor
Igor,
First off, let me say, nothing beats free. ;)
I am not familiar with azobe. My woodworking and carpentry are strictly not professional. Farmer practical at best. That is where I learned.
Thanks for your reply. Your thread and comments have given me much to think about. :think:
Ted