LSoldersticks

[dunnyrail]

Look like a good option, he shows them covered with heat shrink. I think I would use this as well after heating and melting the solder (yes I see he is talking about for insulation in the Vid) but I would use the heat shrink fitted some way from the joint. Check the joint then put the shrink in place then shrink it to help keep out dampness if multi core cable used. The pack of sundry colours look useful as well for id’ing wires.

Bought a small pack of these this morning for £4.99, there are 60 in the box of differing sizes so well worth it for experimentation. The Vid is quite instructive and notes that the colour towards the end make the joints water proof and the solder is low melt so takes a bit of time to go off, though they may be a bit of a faff to use outside needing a heat gun but perhaps a soldering iron body touching may make them work. Appear suitable to me for a terminating point for multiple feeds from rails if you want to make a bus wire loop in the garden.

 

[GAP]

Bought a small pack of these this morning for £4.99, there are 60 in the box of differing sizes so well worth it for experimentation. The Vid is quite instructive and notes that the colour towards the end make the joints water proof and the solder is low melt so takes a bit of time to go off, though they may be a bit of a faff to use outside needing a heat gun but perhaps a soldering iron body touching may make them work. Appear suitable to me for a terminating point for multiple feeds from rails if you want to make a bus wire loop in the garden.

They can be shrunk using a small blowtorch as the solder is low melt, the ones that chefs use are good, even a cigarette lighter will work.
There is another type that has a tail coming out from it so that bus wires can be "tapped" onto but they are hard to find.

 

[Paul M]

It's a shame you can't mechanically connect the wires together by twisting before you slide the solder stick over, to give more strength. Unless using the next size up would work. ie slide the stick over one piece of wire, join the 2 and slide it back over the joint

 

[dunnyrail]

They can be shrunk using a small blowtorch as the solder is low melt, the ones that chefs use are good, even a cigarette lighter will work.
There is another type that has a tail coming out from it so that bus wires can be "tapped" onto but they are hard to find.

Yes I could probably use my Brûlée Torch with a Heat Blanket under it.

 

[GAP]

It's a shame you can't mechanically connect the wires together by twisting before you slide the solder stick over, to give more strength. Unless using the next size up would work. ie slide the stick over one piece of wire, join the 2 and slide it back over the joint

The mechanical strength comes from the solder and the heatshrink's rigidity when shrunk.
They are really quite strong when shrunk.
If the next size up is used the waterproof feature is compromised.

I used them on a modification to SeaKing helicopter intercom system when working for the Navy, those ones had a tail connected to the metal inside that was used to run a signal wire to an additional intercom station.
I cannot seem to locate them anywhere on the net but as they were supplied by Westland I guess they were UK sourced.

 

[GAP]

Yes I could probably use my Brûlée Torch with a Heat Blanket under it.

Put the torch vertically on a flat surface and pass the joiner through the the heated air just out of the flame being careful to not stop and let heat build up.

 

[JimmyB]

It's a shame you can't mechanically connect the wires together by twisting before you slide the solder stick over, to give more strength. Unless using the next size up would work. ie slide the stick over one piece of wire, join the 2 and slide it back over the joint

I have some that are very similar, and the instructions show twisting the wire together before joining.