Live Steam Loco for a Beginner

[SDJR7F88]

Hi all.
Over the past few weeks I have been thinking long and hard about getting a Live Steam Loco for the railway. Now, I've never had a live steam loco before (the close thing I have gotten to it is a Mamod Traction Engine).
I looked a various Models on the mark and there certainly is a fair few, but was wondering which one would be the most suitable and for the best price.
If I were to get one it would need to meet some criteria
1. Easy to use - As mentioned I've never use a Live Steam Loco before, and would like to start of with something easy to use)
2. Reliable - I know there are some Live Steams that have a tendency to be a bit temperamental or shoot off like pocket rockets (A geared loco would be superb)
3. Go around LGB 1st Radius - My railway consists of 1R's, so it must be able to get around them.
4. R/C - R/C is not an issue, but would be nice if it's the right price
5. And the most important, Price - I don't want to break the bank.

I have a friend who has a R/C Accucraft Ragleth and he swears by them, my only issue after just look at the Track-Shack Website, they have just gone up by £200, making them now over £1000! Which it well out of my price range, looking for something around half that at most.

I know it's a big ask, but would interesting to hear if there is anything suitable out there.

 

[G-force1]

Must it be new? There is plenty of second-hand stuff about, try a look on Anything Narrow Gauge site http://www.anythingnarrowgauge.co.uk/ (and others) he seems to keep a good changing selection. I don't find any of them particularly difficult to use, though some do have little foibles, particularly burners. Your limitation is mostly your R1s, but most four wheelers will go round that without issue.

 

[JRinTawa]

There are a few options but really the best thing would attend a show or a few 16mm running days and get to see a few different ones running and the chance for some face to face questioning. And you never know you could walk away with a second hand bargain. Be warned though, live steam becomes very addictive and thankfully there is no known cure

 

[dunnyrail]

Hi all.
Over the past few weeks I have been thinking long and hard about getting a Live Steam Loco for the railway. Now, I've never had a live steam loco before (the close thing I have gotten to it is a Mamod Traction Engine).
I looked a various Models on the mark and there certainly is a fair few, but was wondering which one would be the most suitable and for the best price.
If I were to get one it would need to meet some criteria
1. Easy to use - As mentioned I've never use a Live Steam Loco before, and would like to start of with something easy to use)
2. Reliable - I know there are some Live Steams that have a tendency to be a bit temperamental or shoot off like pocket rockets (A geared loco would be superb)
3. Go around LGB 1st Radius - My railway consists of 1R's, so it must be able to get around them.
4. R/C - R/C is not an issue, but would be nice if it's the right price
5. And the most important, Price - I don't want to break the bank.

I have a friend who has a R/C Accucraft Ragleth and he swears by them, my only issue after just look at the Track-Shack Website, they have just gone up by £200, making them now over £1000! Which it well out of my price range, looking for something around half that at most.

I know it's a big ask, but would interesting to hear if there is anything suitable out there.

Conversation just sent.
JonD

 

[john_darling@hotmail.co.uk]

Look at Regner as they do small steam locos at good prices. I have a Konrad and it always turns heads when running and is very easy to get going and runs at a sensible speed. Great starter engine.

 

[philately]

Have a look at Roundhouse Basic series if you are happy to live with slip eccentric valve gear (you have to give the loco a shove to reverse it). Cost about £610 new. If you visit www.roundhouse-eng.com, you will see what I mean. Lots of accessories to prettify your loco with too.

Roundhouse offer excellent support both before and after sales. And a loco made in Doncaster has to be the best!

Be aware that live steam requires you to be an engine driver rather than a layout operator, especially if your line has gradients. You have to have a much closer relationship with a steam loco than an electric one, whether or not it's radio controlled.

Richard

 

[chris m01]

Even though it will break the bank I recommend a Roundhouse r/c loco. Regners can be temperamental with their burner. Accucraft are cheaper than Riundhouse but in my limited experience don't have the same level of control. Roundhouse locos tend to just work well. If there are any issues Roundhouse give great support. I would go for radio control because otherwise you will be chasing your loco round the garden trying to control it.
I'm careful with money but after much consideration I went for a Roundhouse r/c and I am very pleased that I did. Most people will only have one live steamer so make it a good one.
Lady Anne seems to be able to cope with R1 points if taken carefully.

 

[skycap]

I have a Regner Lumberjack non radio controlled and a RoundhouseBilly which is radio controlled. I built both from kits and they run great. The Lumberjack is a geared engine and easily controlled without rc. The Billy has a slo mo device and a joy to run with exceptional performance. I recently got a DJB whistle for the Billy which I need to install.

 

[funandtrains]

Roundhouse, Regner and Accucraft all make good locos. It really depends on what you want from the loco: size, look, run time, etc. If you use R1 track you will need to run slow so a geared loco may be a plus although a run in loco with r/c should manage it. Personally I like locos with bigger boilers as you can get a long run without having to keep topping up.

 

[a98087]

Is it possible to invite your friend round for a testing session?

It might help you get some answers and also it would be a fun hour or two

Dan

 

[riderdan]

I started with an Accucraft Dora.

It's easy to use, as it's a very simply designed butane burner.

I've found it to be reliable--I've not done anything but add water, fuel, and oil and periodically lubricate the running gear. It's geared, so not extremely jack-rabitty. However, it is pretty fast even with the throttle just cracked. Not Ruby fast, but not slow.

I've taken it to school and run it on an R1 circle, so that's not an issue.

I'm not sure about fitting RC. I've heard it's possible, but it's not set up for that out of the box.

Finally, there's one on U.S. eBay right now for $400 US (around 300 pounds), which includes the locomotive and two ore cars. (http://www.ebay.com/itm/ACCUCRAFT-A...707632?hash=item3d253c3470:g:U9IAAOSwMgdX0yiJ)

Anyway, I've been pleased with my purchase. I run it almost as often as my Frank S--it's such a cute little thing and requires almost no effort (for a steamer) to steam up and send off.

 

[SDJR7F88]

Thanks ever so much indeed Guys! Really has been a real eye opener. Think for now I've narrowed it down to two locos, if I do plan to go ahead with it. Those two being the Accucraft Dora and Regner Conrad, both seem very suitable models for my R1 railway and are within budget, plus seem very good starting platforms for a beginner. Just go to side which would be best.
But before that a few more questions...
I know most Accurcraft models are designed to run out of gas before water, would the Regner or other brands do the same? As I know this can be an issue if not.
Water, I live in a area with reasonably hard water. What sort of water should I use? Distilled? Or some sort of other special water?
Also what gas to use and where to get it?

Guess some of these questions give away how much of a novices I am Any more help would be much appreciated

 

[Madman]

I don't know about which type of water to use, but ask all the questions you can think of. It's a smarter way to go.

 

[trammayo]

Water, I live in a area with reasonably hard water. What sort of water should I use? Distilled? Or some sort of other special water?
Also what gas to use and where to get it?

Guess some of these questions give away how much of a novices I am Any more help would be much appreciated

I hear that the water from a de-humidifier is OK.

 

[dunnyrail]

Have PM'd a few answers. Gas you can get Butane from Halfords, many other suppliers like Wicks and DIY Joints do a Butane/Propane Mix. Ok but best to only use the Mix in Cold Weather. Though I have been using it recently (only in my Roundhouse Locomotives) as I ran out of Butane only with no detremental effects. Butane/Propane does burn hotter hence the Winter use.
JonD

 

[TLR]

Have PM'd a few answers. Gas you can get Butane from Halfords, many other suppliers like Wicks and DIY Joints do a Butane/Propane Mix. Ok but best to only use the Mix in Cold Weather. Though I have been using it recently (only in my Roundhouse Locomotives) as I ran out of Butane only with no detremental effects. Butane/Propane does burn hotter hence the Winter use.
JonD

Actually propane / butane mix's doesn't burn hotter, the propane allows the gas to be available at lower temps

at 60 F per cubic foot the BTU is

Propane 2516 BTU
Butane 3280 BTU
for comparison
Natural Gas 1012 BTU

So as a rule of thumb if the gas tank is onboard the loco then then you can run on butane in air temp of about 10 C 50 F upwards, below use a mix 70/ 30 butane / propane.

Shaun

 

[merlin]

Water, I live in a area with reasonably hard water. What sort of water should I use? Distilled? Or some sort of other special water?

I use filtered rainwater collected in a small butt fed from the guttering on the train shed. Believe me, you would need a very large fleet with an intensive time-table to ever get near running low!

 

[G-force1]

I know most Accurcraft models are designed to run out of water before gas, would the Regner or other brands do the same? As I know this can be an issue if not.
Water, I live in a area with reasonably hard water. What sort of water should I use? Distilled? Or some sort of other special water?

Acually that is the other way round, they should run out of gas before running out of water.

You say you live in a hard water area, how do you know? The best test of all is to check the kettle. If that furrs up again quickly, a week or so after de-furring, then it is too hard. Better though to use water from a de-humidifier or filtered rain water, or distilled.

 

[SDJR7F88]

Acually that is the other way round, they should run out of gas before running out of water.

You say you live in a hard water area, how do you know? The best test of all is to check the kettle. If that furrs up again quickly, a week or so after de-furring, then it is too hard. Better though to use water from a de-humidifier or filtered rain water, or distilled.

Yes, that what I meant, can't believe I put it the wrong way around! Edited now. Yes, the kettle does have a lot a limescale as do the taps, so the water is quite hard. Excellent, I have a de-humidifier, so all is good there. By filtered rain water, I take it that means just getting all the dirt and bits and pieces out of it. Not running it through a special filter of something like that.

 

[SDJR7F88]

Water, I live in a area with reasonably hard water. What sort of water should I use? Distilled? Or some sort of other special water?

I use filtered rainwater collected in a small butt fed from the guttering on the train shed. Believe me, you would need a very large fleet with an intensive time-table to ever get near running low!

Got plenty of water butts in the garden so shouldn't run short there