Link-and-Pin Couplers from eBay

[Fred2179G]

I ordered a set of link and pin couplers from Pasidump in Sri Lanka. At $6.50 per package, I got 12 coupler pockets, 6 links, 12 pins and 150 plastic rivets for $19.50, enough for 6 wagons.

Here's the coupler pocket ready to glue on the end of my wagon:

And here's the final result:

Conclusions? They are quite big - larger than the Ozark metal couplers. The pins almost have a hole through - shouldn't be difficult to drill them and make something to tie the pins to the wagon so they don't get lost! The pocket has a big spigot behind but it is tapered - I messaged the seller and suggested a bigger, thicker spigot so I can put a pin through it behind the frame - right now I am relying on glue on the flat surfaces.



Can't beat them for the price.

 

[Rhinochugger]

I ordered a set of link and pin couplers from Pasidump in Sri Lanka. At $6.50 per package, I got 12 coupler pockets, 6 links, 12 pins and 150 plastic rivets for $19.50, enough for 6 wagons.

Here's the coupler pocket ready to glue on the end of my wagon:

And here's the final result:

Conclusions? They are quite big - larger than the Ozark metal couplers. The pins almost have a hole through - shouldn't be difficult to drill them and make something to tie the pins to the wagon so they don't get lost! The pocket has a big spigot behind but it is tapered - I messaged the seller and suggested a bigger, thicker spigot so I can put a pin through it behind the frame - right now I am relying on glue on the flat surfaces.



Can't beat them for the price.

Yep, I bought some a good while back. If the coupler is going to be under strain, I've tried two options:

1. A mini-drill through the long, tapered spigot and a short wire through the hole.
2. 10 BA bolts instead of the plastic pins provided

As you say, great value for money although I only bought coupler pockets and still have to provide my own links

 

[dunnyrail]

Only problem with link and pin is if you get a derailment the complete train gets pulled off. How do I know this? Well I used LnP back in the 80’s, home made and the first time that all my stock at that time had compatible Couplings. But what a pain to use them particularly on R1’s, had to make differing length links for different types of stock etc. They are really not the b all and end all of Couplings. But very simple to make and fit. Oh and propelling for shunting even on Peco points a bit of a pain too.

 

[Rhinochugger]

Only problem with link and pin is if you get a derailment the complete train gets pulled off. How do I know this? Well I used LnP back in the 80’s, home made and the first time that all my stock at that time had compatible Couplings. But what a pain to use them particularly on R1’s, had to make differing length links for different types of stock etc. They are really not the b all and end all of Couplings. But very simple to make and fit. Oh and propelling for shunting even on Peco points a bit of a pain too.

Yebbut, on some railroads, link and pin is prototypical.......

........and better looking than those b***** ugly LGB hooks and loops

 

[GAP]

Yep, I bought some a good while back. If the coupler is going to be under strain, I've tried two options:

1. A mini-drill through the long, tapered spigot and a short wire through the hole.
2. 10 BA bolts instead of the plastic pins provided

As you say, great value for money although I only bought coupler pockets and still have to provide my own links

I have been using these couplers for over 10 years now and have had no problems.
I just glued them to my buffer beams with contact cement (stuff used to glue laminate to bench tops) making sure that there is glue behind the buffer beam where the spigot protrudes and have not had any separate from their mount.

As for derailment tipping the whole train over I use fishing swivels instead of the links which overcomes the whole train on its side scenario although the pins can work their way out during a running session but that can be solved by using split pins (cotter pins).

When I matched them up to the wagons I bought with LGB link and pin couplers they are compatible and not really noticeable unless the couplings are inspected closely so in my opinion is all in all they are a very economical coupling method.

 

[The Tinker]

Totally agree with GAP, I also use fishing swivels. I also use a soldering iron to melt the rivets at back of beam this seems to work well

 

[GAP]

Totally agree with GAP, I also use fishing swivels. I also use a soldering iron to melt the rivets at back of beam this seems to work well

I actually use the small wooden wagons from Pasidump also, they are a good cheap base for small wagons (3-5 Plank UK based), the holes are pre drilled and its just glue the bits together, as I said before I have some over 10 years old and still going strong.

The glue I use is el cheapo brand from a $2 shop that will stick anything even fingers together (please do not ask how I discovered that little fact ).

Being from Sri Lanka I do not have high expectations of high end quality (getting that stuff to Aust requires re financing the mortgage) but if you are kitbashing a lot they are a good base to start from.

 

[dunnyrail]

I guess it depends what you want them for. No denying that the look is good as Rhino says in many cases they are prototypical. But for use where coupling and uncoupling is being done a lot as on my lines where I am running to a Timetable with Wagons being sent to destinations and picked up en route they were a real pain. Hence me ditching them, LGB hooks and loops for all there bad looks have thus far proved the most reliable for ME. However if you want to have fixed (ish) sets and not do massive amounts of joining up and splitting up of that set they would be OK, derailments excepted unless you do the fishing link thing.

Like the idea of the Fishing Loops, may be the solution I am looking for with my Rollwagens.

 

[Rhinochugger]

I guess it depends what you want them for. No denying that the look is good as Rhino says in many cases they are prototypical. But for use where coupling and uncoupling is being done a lot as on my lines where I am running to a Timetable with Wagons being sent to destinations and picked up en route they were a real pain. Hence me ditching them, LGB hooks and loops for all there bad looks have thus far proved the most reliable for ME. However if you want to have fixed (ish) sets and not do massive amounts of joining up and splitting up of that set they would be OK, derailments excepted unless you do the fishing link thing.

Like the idea of the Fishing Loops, may be the solution I am looking for with my Rollwagens.

I rarely shunt / couple / uncouple - my trains run round and round while I sit and watch


When it's dry and warm, that is

 

[dunnyrail]

I rarely shunt / couple / uncouple - my trains run round and round while I sit and watch


When it's dry and warm, that is

Not an uncommon way of enjoying your Garden Railway. Not for me that often I am afraid. Though I do like a runaroundwatch if I am working in the Garden.