LGB V Piko point comparison

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GAP

G Scale Model Trains, 1:1 Sugar Cane Trains
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I am looking to purchase some extra points for a little bit of an expansion and have a choice available from 2 different suppliers;
One only has these:- 35222 PIKO MANUAL SWITCH LEFT 8’/ 2.4M DIAMETER and 35223 PIKO MANUAL SWITCH RIGHT 8’/2.4 M DIAMETER.
While the other only has these:- LGB - 16040 - MANUAL SWITCH, RIGHT, R3 and LGB - 16140 - MANUAL SWITCH,LEFT , R3
As I have no experience with the PIKO brand I am wondering if there is a great deal of difference between the 2 brands.
Anybody have experience with both brand who can give some guidance for or against?
 
I've had PIKO R5 points and LGB R3 points (both roughly 4' radius), they both performed well and completely compatible but the LGB caused more stalls than the PIKO, I think the plastic frog is longer. You can use PIKO and LGB point motors on either of them, but the PIKO point motor is slightly higher and does catch on some LGB locos. Ref post #5 I think I'm right in saying that Modell-land rebrand Train-Line track and points.
 
The fact that LGB do not do a curved point has changed the situation.
As I do not want to make 2 separate orders and pay for postage twice it looks like the shop with the Piko points win the order.
Thanks for all the help with the decision.
 
I have experience of both the PIKO and LGB large-radius points and would say that Piko have the edge. They are more robust and have much tighter rail connections. Also their curved point is superb (if a bit pricey!)
 
<rant> I have experience with both brands. Uncontraversially, I like them both. However,
I am annoyed with both brands for not doing a double slip* of at least R3/5 cheaper than the Gold mine in Buckinghamshire.</rant>

* we do not all have gardens the size of Yorkshire. :) No offence to anyone who DOES have a garden the size of Yorkshire, or indeed owns Yorkshire. :)

 
<rant> I have experience with both brands. Uncontraversially, I like them both. However,
I am annoyed with both brands for not doing a double slip* of at least R3/5 cheaper than the Gold mine in Buckinghamshire.</rant>

* we do not all have gardens the size of Yorkshire. :) No offence to anyone who DOES have a garden the size of Yorkshire, or indeed owns Yorkshire. :)

Markway so double slips in G, think they are hand built to order so you could specify rail to match LgB. Also I think GRS do them as well, but in either case not cheep and the Markway ones being soldered to copper clad need building up to height to match LGB sleepers. You could of course always build yourself, a great way to save money. Barely worth it for plain track but points are a different matter.
 
Markway so double slips in G, think they are hand built to order so you could specify rail to match LgB. Also I think GRS do them as well, but in either case not cheep and the Markway ones being soldered to copper clad need building up to height to match LGB sleepers. You could of course always build yourself, a great way to save money. Barely worth it for plain track but points are a different matter.
:) I think building a DS is a little past my skill level. :)
 
:) I think building a DS is a little past my skill level. :)
Have to say I thought that way till I built an interlaced point pair that for all intents and purposes looks like a double slip. Hardest part is starting, though you could cut your teeth by building a point of the required radius then if it works out ok you are part way to building your double slip. You will never know unless you try.
 
I had a LGB DS on my layout, but I found it caused a few derailments. As I was using it as a diamond crossing, I locked the blades with set screws.

I've now replaced it with a diamond crossing, so i will probably dispose of it one day....
 
I seem to recall when the Piko track system first came out people experienced problems with the bonding wires under the point frogs being poorly secured, too thin and/or corroded rapidly? I presume that was rectified in later production?
 
I seem to recall when the Piko track system first came out people experienced problems with the bonding wires under the point frogs being poorly secured, too thin and/or corroded rapidly? I presume that was rectified in later production?
This may have been the case. However LGB points aren't immune from the electrical bonding strips detaching from the rail. I've added extra wiring to several of my LGB R3s as a fix whenever this happened.
 
I have not heard of Piko switches having issues... they are the only company I know of that does the contact to the powered-point rail properly. (Piko person at a train show let me look under the hood years ago.) Haven't had any issues with mine. This is where just about every other brand will wear out... yes even the Lgb ones.

Kinda curious how their expected R3 turnout will be once it's on the market. There are not any real details on them yet.
 
Kinda curious how their expected R3 turnout will be once it's on the market. There are not any real details on them yet.
Kinda curious how their expected R3 turnout will be once it's on the market. There are not any real details on them yet.

I didn't know they were going to make one. Is that a Piko R3 size or LGB R3 size? I ask because Piko R3 is (almost) an arch that runs parallel to LGB R2.
I had a LGB DS on my layout, but I found it caused a few derailments. As I was using it as a diamond crossing, I locked the blades with set screws.

I've now replaced it with a diamond crossing, so i will probably dispose of it one day....
That's disappointing to read. I've been playing with some track plans and have always enjoyed the idea of adding a DS (or two) to various places. Is the DS known for being a troublesome?
 
We had a LGB DS on the Ruschbahn in a Station area and derailments were only due to operator not setting the point correct. But the speeds were necesarily slow, now looking at some of the vids on here high speed traversing of an LGB DS would be e recipe for derailments. Just look at how the real thing treats points and DS, fast on straight route but on the curve speed restrictions apply unless it is a High Speed Point and these in G would be Yards rather than Feet long.
 
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Have to say I thought that way till I built an interlaced point pair that for all intents and purposes looks like a double slip. Hardest part is starting, though you could cut your teeth by building a point of the required radius then if it works out ok you are part way to building your double slip. You will never know unless you try.
Fair play dunnyrail, but, I think, what I am apprehensive about is buying a load of stuff and wasting it by either scrapping it or just shoving it to one side. Also, the thought of filing the (eight) switch blades by hand is a bit daunting. Of course, I bet there is a machine to help me do this, and I bet also its the thick end of two hundred Quid :)
 
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