LGB US Semaphore Signal 51960

[James Day]

I have just acquired my first LGB US style Semphore signal.

It is lower quandrant and very interesting to compare with the taller upper quadrant European ones.

I have posted a couple of images of this along with my other signals, including my one of Playmobil conversions, that is mounted on one of the first series of EPL add on switches.



I have a quick question for anyone who has an LGB US type semaphore:

How easy is it to change or tighten the bulb? The intructions tells you to remove the red spectacle and then push the bulb holder down through the hole. My bulb seems to be a little loose, so it needs tightening.

Having followed the LGB instructions it seems virtually imposible to get the holder to drop out without crushing the bulb! It seems that a lot of force is required. Any tips would be welcome! (Come to think of it, I don't recall having to change a bulb in one of my European type signals either.....

James

 

[playmofire]

As I have two of the US semaphore signals, James, I look forward to any answers too.

 

[Madman]

Yes, the red lens pushes out to change the lamp. However, do it in a place where you can find the lens should it want to go where no man has been before.

James, I like the looks of the Playmobil signal. It looks more robust than the LGB variety. What did you do to it, if I may ask ?

 

[James Day]

Yes, the red lens pushes out to change the lamp. However, do it in a place where you can find the lens should it want to go where no man has been before.

James, I like the looks of the Playmobil signal. It looks more robust than the LGB variety. What did you do to it, if I may ask ?

Thanks Dan,

How much force do you have to use to get the bulb holder to drop out then?

To answer your question:

The PM signal is battery operated and comes mounted on a battery case. The signal was unclipped from the base and the existing wires removed.

A chum helped me with the electrics - Initially we re-used the existing circuit board, but it is important to remove the top push switch! I filled the hole for the switch with a cut off Playmobil Buffer! This keeps the water out!

The signal was powered from my 18V ac lighting circuit, switched via one set of contacts on the EPL switch. The other did the isolating.

The signal is mounted on top of the old style 1203 EPL add on switch using a highly technical process that requires a lot of skill - actually I jest - it is is Hot Melt Glue!

It looked good and proved very durable. If the signal got knocked the hot joint would break, but was easily made good. The signals themselves are very strong!

Unfortunately with the mark 1 version the lights appeared to flicker when it was filmed, which was annoying!

Version two saw the PM circuit board replace with something that didn't flash.



The other issue with these signals is the 'target board' surround, which is originally paper. These eventually go the way of all flesh, so have been replaced on many with white tape that has then been varnished.

I have asked my chum if he can give me a circuit diagram to post here.

James

 

[Madman]

Thanks Dan,

How much force do you have to use to get the bulb holder to drop out then?

To answer your question:

The PM signal is battery operated and comes mounted on a battery case. The signal was unclipped from the base and the existing wires removed.

A chum helped me with the electrics - Initially we re-used the existing circuit board, but it is important to remove the top push switch! I filled the hole for the switch with a cut off Playmobil Buffer! This keeps the water out!

The signal was powered from my 18V ac lighting circuit, switched via one set of contacts on the EPL switch. The other did the isolating.

The signal is mounted on top of the old style 1203 EPL add on switch using a highly technical process that requires a lot of skill - actually I jest - it is is Hot Melt Glue!

It looked good and proved very durable. If the signal got knocked the hot joint would break, but was easily made good. The signals themselves are very strong!

Unfortunately with the mark 1 version the lights appeared to flicker when it was filmed, which was annoying!

Version two saw the PM circuit board replace with something that didn't flash.

View attachment 222370

The other issue with these signals is the 'target board' surround, which is originally paper. These eventually go the way of all flesh, so have been replaced on many with white tape that has then been varnished.

I have asked my chum if he can give me a circuit diagram to post here.

James

They can be rather tight. If I remember correctly, the first time I had to remove the lamp holder I thought I was doing something wrong. As the signal aged in the garden, the lamp would sometimes come loose in it's socket and tightening it was near impossible without removing the holder. It was easier the second time.

I don't have signals anymore but when I did I would store them indoors for the Winter.