LGB Track power terminals

[Airbuspilot]

Does anyone have a view on LGB Track power connectors?

I have been using a soldered ring tag which I screw onto the standard two screw track connectors which seems to work OK but is time consuming. I have discovered a box of LGB power connectors, which I didn't know we had. I had to replace one recently as the plastic holder cracked and the connection was intermittent. As I have these it seems sensible to use them unless there is a good reason not to.

I am starting to wire up feedback cables for block detection which will require about 20 track connections, all external. I don't like the wire connection method for the LGB connectors and I think there is possibly a problem of over tightening but have no personal experience of using them.

Any thoughts welcome.

Robin

 

[PhilP]

I personally think that they are designed for starter-set, indoor use. - Taken off and on frequently, and not really for a permanent outdoor track..

I think outside, that the greater exposure to UV, greater range of thermal expansion / contraction, and wet weather, will all take a toll..

I would use solder tags on rail-joiners, or directly soldered connections.
Also a small loop of wire at each connection. - Allows for movement, and gives you a fighting chance, if you need to remake a connection.

PhilP

 

[Airbuspilot]

Thanks Phil. I'm not sure why we have these and I don't really think they are up to the job outdoors as you say. Unless someone says they have been using them for 20 years they are probably surplus.

Robin

 

[John Russo]

I agree with Phil. The LGB connectors are better suited for indoor use for temporary set ups, i.e. Christmas time, etc. They are easy to put on and take off with no tools needed.

However, on a permanent layout, IMO, they are too bulky and detract from the realism of the layout.

I use these to get power to and from the track.

They are small and less obtrusive.

Split Jaw 40054 Track Power Clamps, 2 per Pack

Check out the deal on Split Jaw 40054 Track Power Clamps, 2 per Pack at LGB Model Trains, LGB Locomotives, Garden Train Sets, G Scale Model Trains,

www.onlytrains.com

 

[Airbuspilot]

I agree with Phil. The LGB connectors are better suited for indoor use for temporary set ups, i.e. Christmas time, etc. They are easy to put on and take off with no tools needed.

However, on a permanent layout, IMO, they are too bulky and detract from the realism of the layout.

I use these to get power to and from the track.

They are small and less obtrusive.

Split Jaw 40054 Track Power Clamps, 2 per Pack

Check out the deal on Split Jaw 40054 Track Power Clamps, 2 per Pack at LGB Model Trains, LGB Locomotives, Garden Train Sets, G Scale Model Trains,

www.onlytrains.com

Thanks John
I am using the equivalent joiners, I looked at split jaw but delivery and tax too much into Europe.
Robin

 

[David Halfpenny]

Thanks John
I am using the equivalent joiners, I looked at split jaw but delivery and tax too much into Europe.
Robin

Robin,
Look up Massoth rail clamps, which originate from Europe (Germany), and are generally lighter and cheaper than split-jaw in the first place.

The screws bite slightly into the rail foot, which some say gives better conduction, and they are vertical, which makes them easier to tighten / loosen from above.

Personally, I replace the slot-head M2 csk screws supplied with similar Torx or hex-socket heads, because those are easier to drive and more robust. If you don't like shiny stainless screw-heads winking in the sun, order black-finish stainless.

Returning to the Original Question, Massoth also make a single-screw version with a power feed solder-tag.

As I don't need many power feeds, I've simply sawn some two-hole clamps in half ​

 

[dunnyrail]

Agree with all the comments re the LGB ones outside, when track power I used Massoth and Hillman utilising the screw facility to power up sections rather than soldering to the track. With Massoth I find the screws do tarnish as do the clamps in pretty shirt order thus they become near invisible in pretty short order. As for the wire I made a soldered loop to fit to the screw head and found no problems with power supply using this system. As for you LGB connections, either sell them via the forum or Ebay they will sell.

 

[PhilP]

The LGB connectors are really designed for temporary setups on the parlour floor.. Not really suitable for long-term use outside..

PhilP.

 

[David Halfpenny]

The LGB connectors are really designed for temporary setups on the parlour floor.. Not really suitable for long-term use outside..

PhilP.

All the same, I'm still considering them (or something as easily detachable), so that I can keep all of the electrics indoors, except when a visitor brings a 2-rail engine.

As I'm on Code 250 rail, I need to get a sample to try out, before investing in Block leads.​

 

[David Halfpenny]

With Massoth I find the screws do tarnish as do the clamps in pretty shirt order thus they become near invisible in pretty short order.

They've sent me nickel-plated ones, so I'm hoping those will tarnish too.

If not, I'll take them all off and strip them back to brass.​

 

[Gerard]

removed

 

[maxi-model]

Deleted post. Read post #6, didn't read post #9. Missed the new direction, oops

 

[dunnyrail]

All the same, I'm still considering them (or something as easily detachable), so that I can keep all of the electrics indoors, except when a visitor brings a 2-rail engine.

As I'm on Code 250 rail, I need to get a sample to try out, before investing in Block leads.​

The LGB connectors not suitable for 250 code rail, I am assuming you are using Peco G scale Track which is Code 250?

 

[David Halfpenny]

The LGB connectors not suitable for 250 code rail, I am assuming you are using Peco G scale Track which is Code 250?

Thanks for the tip-off, Jon - I'll save my pennies.

Yes, I am using Peco's Code 250 G-Scale track ​

Although Peco call it G-45, it's actually set to the old UK gauge of 1.75", rather than the German 45mm.​

I should be clear that Massoth's Code 250 rail clamps need washers under the countersunk screw heads to grip Peco's very narrow rail foot.

​

Also, Piko's 35293 split-jaw clamp, which is advertised by at least one UK supplier as fitting Peco 250 track, is designed for LGB rail.

It needs a 1mm thick shim under the Peco rail, to pull the clamp down away from the rail head. Even then, some G-Scale flanges clout the joiner slightly, unless it's filed down a little.​

Even though Peco G-45 is 'odd man out' in more ways than one, I still like it best of all the tracks systems I've run on these 45 years.

It lets me mix pretty well all the "G1" scales: 1:32, 10mm, 1:24, 1:22.5, 1:20, 16mm, 1:16, 7/8", 1:12 and 1:8 without any of them looking wildly out of place or getting distressed on turnouts. ​

However running Mainline Steam on it needs custom turnouts, as Peco's only ready-built turnout option is a rather 'sudden' 1 in 5 with a tightest radius of little more than 4 feet - Eeek!​

​

 

[dunnyrail]

Ah yes you have discovered as I have that the Massoth Peco code Clamps not the perfect fit to the rail without small washers a real pain. I discovered this when I needed a few for the last of my Peco where I had run out of Hillman USA Coy (long out of business now) that did do proper Code 250 Clamps. Reported in this Forum. I got the Massoth ones from Glendale who were surprised when I took a sample of the problem to them. Apparently no other customers had complained - strange.