LGB Track cleaning loco.
- Thread starter Rob
- Start date
Neil Robinson
Registered
If you find one cheap due to a burnt out board I know a cheap fix.
I recently removed a DCC version board from an example belonging to another GSC member who only uses analogue control. He is of the opinion that analogue performance is now better than before.
https://www.gscalecentral.net/threads/lgb-track-cleaning-loco-dead-decoder.301621/
I recently removed a DCC version board from an example belonging to another GSC member who only uses analogue control. He is of the opinion that analogue performance is now better than before.
https://www.gscalecentral.net/threads/lgb-track-cleaning-loco-dead-decoder.301621/
Last edited:
stockers
Trains, aircraft, models, walking, beer, travel
Keep a good look out Rob. I found mine on Ebay and was lucky and got a good one. There are one or two known issues with poorly maintained ones. The cleaning motor (or its control board) as Neil says and also the cleaning axle can get gummed up with fibres from the cleaning wheels, Repair is always possible but not necessarily easy without a bit of experience., But several people on here have fixed them so advice is available..
As for operation. I consider mine to be brilliant but the best track cleaner seems to be regular use.
As for operation. I consider mine to be brilliant but the best track cleaner seems to be regular use.
rhaetianfan
RhB (obviously) but otherwise any 'modern' locos
Hi Rob
I have an analogue (yellow) track cleaner which has not led a hard life, even less so since I went all digital some years ago and purchased a red one. It's still in its box and has been stored in a heated room throughout; the extent of my line was far less in analogue days so it should be in reasonable health.
PM me if interested.
Regards
Mark
stockers
Trains, aircraft, models, walking, beer, travel
Piccys please.
Last bit of advice Rob. As the cleaning wheels wear down, so do the flanges. These are made of a nylon type material and it wears of in strings which can wrap around the axle. Keep an eye on the flanges and if there are any loose feathery bits pull them off. If too much gets around the axle it can get hot and melt and seal up the bearings when it sets.
Removing the wheels once in a 'long' while and cleaning up is a good idea but don't over tighten the screws on replacement - you can strip the threads.
The other way to limit these 'strings' is to change the cleaning wheels before they get too low - then the flange wont wear much.
But don't let me panic you - this is just simple maintenance. Use it and enjoy the simplicity.
Lastly - they don't work very well on wet track or up steep inclines. Simple - clean going down hill.
Last bit of advice Rob. As the cleaning wheels wear down, so do the flanges. These are made of a nylon type material and it wears of in strings which can wrap around the axle. Keep an eye on the flanges and if there are any loose feathery bits pull them off. If too much gets around the axle it can get hot and melt and seal up the bearings when it sets.
Removing the wheels once in a 'long' while and cleaning up is a good idea but don't over tighten the screws on replacement - you can strip the threads.
The other way to limit these 'strings' is to change the cleaning wheels before they get too low - then the flange wont wear much.
But don't let me panic you - this is just simple maintenance. Use it and enjoy the simplicity.
Lastly - they don't work very well on wet track or up steep inclines. Simple - clean going down hill.
stockers
Trains, aircraft, models, walking, beer, travel
Oh, and lastly.
The cleaning end of the loco can bounce around a bit and clean, leaving a series of zebra stripes on the rail. No problem with the zebra stripes - just ignore them - you don't need to keep going until everything gleams like gold. I usually only give the track one or two passes at a moderately low speed. Worn cleaning wheels seems to increase the tendency to bounce.
The cleaning end of the loco can bounce around a bit and clean, leaving a series of zebra stripes on the rail. No problem with the zebra stripes - just ignore them - you don't need to keep going until everything gleams like gold. I usually only give the track one or two passes at a moderately low speed. Worn cleaning wheels seems to increase the tendency to bounce.
Zerogee
Clencher's Bogleman
Not to be pedantic, Alan, but doesn't the "must post photos" rule only apply to items advertised on here as "For Sale" to all members, not to those simply offered in response to a specific "wanted" ad?
Sure, if Rob wants to ask Mark for some pics before coming to a deal, then that's his prerogative, but I don't think anyone is infringing the Forum rules here?
Of course, if Rob doesn't buy it and Mark then wants to offer it to list members in general, then photos (and a price) would be required as per the rules.....
Jon.
Zerogee
Clencher's Bogleman
Greg Elmassian
Guest
if you are getting zebra stripes, it's usually because the wheels have gotten out of round.
You can take them out and true them up and you will get more wear from them. Also you need pretty much full power to the cleaning wheels to have them work well, and then you slow the traction motor down with the knob on top... works best at over 20 volts on the rails, and it does take a bit of current.
Greg
You can take them out and true them up and you will get more wear from them. Also you need pretty much full power to the cleaning wheels to have them work well, and then you slow the traction motor down with the knob on top... works best at over 20 volts on the rails, and it does take a bit of current.
Greg
