LGB Toy Train wagons - bogies slow in straightening up after curves

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playmofire

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I run LGB Toy Train wagons because they are shorter than other types and so better for my size of layouts. However, some have an annoying habit of the bogie failing to straighten up after rounding curve. This doesn't seem to cause any problem in running (although it must increase drag an wear on the wheels), bit it does look untidy.

I have thought of two possible solutions, polishing up the underside of the wagon body which touches the bogie or inserting a washer between the body and the bogie.

I've not had time to try either of these yet, but wondered if anyone had had the same problem, either with Toy Train or other rolling stock, and had come up with a solution.
 
A little more 'slop' in the pivot (even a little lubrication) may help..

A single bristle from a stiff plastic yard-broom, can be pushed into a hole in the bogie. The other end anchored to the floor of the wagon.
You need to experiment, with the length dependent on how stiff the bristle is.

PhilP
 
PhilP said:
A little more 'slop' in the pivot (even a little lubrication) may help..

A single bristle from a stiff plastic yard-broom, can be pushed into a hole in the bogie. The other end anchored to the floor of the wagon.
You need to experiment, with the length dependent on how stiff the bristle is.

PhilP
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A lump of blue tack to stop them turning in the first place. I'm sure they do not need to turn!
 
To my mind I wonder if the ‘bogie’ type mechanism has got gunked up with carp. Pull em apart, clean the circular mechanisms up and refit with a little touch if LGB 50019 lube, the pinky redish stuff in a syringe. When you pull things apart look for some dust on the moving parts that will show that wear has been taking place possibly due to lack of lub in the first place.
 
Greg Elmassian said:
While that mod gets both wheelsets in positions complimenting each other, technically it adds a bit more friction.

I would guess the cars roll so freely that they do not re-center (friction in the moving mechanism).

Greg
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Either way, Greg, I think there's extra friction, bogies aligned or not aligned.
 
Many thanks to all of you for your comments. I will follow these up with the exception of Cliff's which looks expensive and possibly time consuming, especially.

Cleaning and polishing or lubricating the area I had thought of and will use as the starting point, although I imagine that it may not be the universal solution.
 
With a few spare minutes I thought I'd try an experiment by running a train with the awkward wagon in coupled up hook and loop to hook and loop and this cured the problem of the bogies being slow in straightening up after a curve which is interesting but I'll also try the other suggestions (including cleaning all stock in the relevant areas).
 
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I've seen it in cases, where the 2 hooks want to move paste each other. Cannot recall exactly, think it happens on "S" curves.

But if it is working for you, double hooking is also very reliable. You can make a "forked" manual uncoupler that pushes both hooks down at the same time.

Double hooking is often used here in the USA for shows and continuous running layouts.

Greg
 
Not having any LGB equipped with these 'turntable' axle sets (all mine are fixed frame Feldbahn, or similar), I've only taken a passing interest in this thread. But, the mention of double hooking, has piqued my curiosity.
I run my LGB Feldbahn with single hook for the same reason already mentioned.... ease of uncoupling, especially as I use this stuff on a shunting/switching layout. However, one day, I was letting this stock loose on the Taita Gorge, and noticed, somewhat annoyed, that the single hooked stock did not run in a straight line. Putting double hooks back on, cured the problem. The hooks themselves, are ever so slightly off centre, so, the pulling forces are too, causing the wagon to twist sideways. Double hooking balances out this tendency.

Now, the uncoupling issue, I use a fairly broad paint scraper/plaster trowel, pushed down between the loop front faces to lower both hooks at the same time, then delecately twist, to force the wagons apart. Even thought of applying an LGB logo to the damned thing, just to (as is usual with me) upset the 'boxers'.
 
Gavin Sowry said:
Not having any LGB equipped with these 'turntable' axle sets (all mine are fixed frame Feldbahn, or similar), I've only taken a passing interest in this thread. But, the mention of double hooking, has piqued my curiosity.
I run my LGB Feldbahn with single hook for the same reason already mentioned.... ease of uncoupling, especially as I use this stuff on a shunting/switching layout. However, one day, I was letting this stock loose on the Taita Gorge, and noticed, somewhat annoyed, that the single hooked stock did not run in a straight line. Putting double hooks back on, cured the problem. The hooks themselves, are ever so slightly off centre, so, the pulling forces are too, causing the wagon to twist sideways. Double hooking balances out this tendency.

Now, the uncoupling issue, I use a fairly broad paint scraper/plaster trowel, pushed down between the loop front faces to lower both hooks at the same time, then delecately twist, to force the wagons apart. Even thought of applying an LGB logo to the damned thing, just to (as is usual with me) upset the 'boxers'.
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I would imagine that could be the reason that LGB supplied a second hook in all their new boxes. Have to say I have not noticed the single hook straight line issue, but perhaps I will keep a look out for it as nine if my locomotives have hooks. Perhaps the slight pressure exerted by the lower loop (I drop them all by 20-30 thou as recommended by DougLN) on the loco assists in this regard.
 
Hello Playmofire,

May be i have the solution for your wheel turning problem and your decoupling problem as well.
I used to have the same wheel turn problem with axis not returning to their straight position.
I solved it by applying a thin carbon steel wire of thickness of 1 to 1.2 mm as a bending spring.
The wire is fitted into two drilled holes opposite to each other, one in de rotating wheel construction
and the opposite end into the basic structure of the train car. Both holes are at the same level
so the spring can move free.
After each turn the wheel axis is turned back to its straight postion. This is also a great advantage when
you must put the car on the rail, especially with cars having double axis at each end.
See the pictures as examples.

About the decoupling problem using two hooks. I buil myself a simple item from flat 2 x 15 mm aluminium
with one leg 10 cm long perpendicular to the other of 80 cm long. using this i can decouple from a standing position.
I use this item also to pull and push cars when necessary !

Have a nice day !
Gerard
 

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