I have just bought a Stainz number 4, with a part number of 2040, however most of the literature I have found is about an electric “crocodile”, I am after a couple of light lenses, can anyone point in in the direction of a spares manual, thanks.
LGB Stainz 4
- Thread starter JimmyB
- Start date
To the best of my knowledge the Stainz locos have always had a part number 2020 or a variation of this such as 2020(x) 0r 2x2xx
The Kroks are the 2040 or versions ( but never with smoke!)
I've attached a pdf file of the earliest example I can find of a data sheet but it has the later style couplings so is probably younger than your model.
The Kroks are the 2040 or versions ( but never with smoke!)
I've attached a pdf file of the earliest example I can find of a data sheet but it has the later style couplings so is probably younger than your model.
Hi Jimmy,
Looking at the 2040 Croc and Stainz (B) motor block, it looks like the bottom plates would be interchangeable.
It's possible a previous owner used a bottom plate from a crock that he had hanging about.
Is your Stainz a modern version or an older model?
The info in the link below may be helpful if it's the older type.
If it's more modern than It could be a 22212
Regards,
Paul.
LGB History Yarner: LGB History - 1968 and 1969
Looking at the 2040 Croc and Stainz (B) motor block, it looks like the bottom plates would be interchangeable.
It's possible a previous owner used a bottom plate from a crock that he had hanging about.
Is your Stainz a modern version or an older model?
The info in the link below may be helpful if it's the older type.
If it's more modern than It could be a 22212
Regards,
Paul.
LGB History Yarner: LGB History - 1968 and 1969
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Many thanks for the quick responses, A general "google for 2040 does come up with a Stainz and well as the Crock, so i have no reason to believe the number is wrong, I will read the provided info and see how thing move along.
I believe it was an oddity of LGB numbering in the early days, that somehow two items (the Stainz and the Croc) ended up with the same code number. So technically, both numbers are correct, you just have to be careful when looking for spares and such!
Your no.4 (black cab?) Stainz will be a very early one, with a clamshell gearbox and metal motion - I did have one myself but sold it to one of our resident Stainz collectors on here a couple of years back. While not "rare" in a very collectable sense, there are not that many of them around. Does it have a small D-ring-shaped rear coupler rather than the more standard type?
Spares for any of the early Stainz variants should fit - what is the diameter of the lamp bodies on yours?
Jon.
Your no.4 (black cab?) Stainz will be a very early one, with a clamshell gearbox and metal motion - I did have one myself but sold it to one of our resident Stainz collectors on here a couple of years back. While not "rare" in a very collectable sense, there are not that many of them around. Does it have a small D-ring-shaped rear coupler rather than the more standard type?
Spares for any of the early Stainz variants should fit - what is the diameter of the lamp bodies on yours?
Jon.
Indeed this is so. Stainz had the number 2040 with the Running Number 4. Detail discovered in Chrisrmann Collector Cataloge (LGB). Page 17. Also confirmed bybthe LGB Picture Bible ‘LOK’ Page 32 Stainz 2040 available from 1968-1974. Price shown as 85-135 DM. As Jon. says you need to buy with care when looking to add to your LGB Fleet. Having said that with LGB being pretty well indestructible it should be a fairly reliable runner.
The Light Lenses are pretty well standard. Only difference I have come across is the Gold and Silver type of Caps.
The Light Lenses are pretty well standard. Only difference I have come across is the Gold and Silver type of Caps.
There are two different lamp diameters used on Stainz versions - a small one on the VERY early models (certainly on many of those with "growler" gearboxes, but some may have still been used on the earliest clamshell locos too), then the larger type that is still current now.
The black cab no.4 PROBABLY has the larger standard type, but it's worth checking just in case.
Jon.
Jimmy, Have you a different LGB loco, at all? - You could try a lens from that.. That would give us a better idea which you require.
if you mean this loco...
http://kormsen.info/locos/bilder/stainz1.JPG
http://kormsen.info/locos/bilder/stainz5.JPG
.... then you got the loco from a very early starterset.
http://kormsen.info/locos/bilder/starterset20401.JPG
very early = i remember, to have gotten the set at christmas '69 - but others disputed that, saying the set is from '70.
(i'm still not able to post pics on this forum)
http://kormsen.info/locos/bilder/stainz1.JPG
http://kormsen.info/locos/bilder/stainz5.JPG
.... then you got the loco from a very early starterset.
http://kormsen.info/locos/bilder/starterset20401.JPG
very early = i remember, to have gotten the set at christmas '69 - but others disputed that, saying the set is from '70.
(i'm still not able to post pics on this forum)
Many thanks for all the comments, it does seem identical to the loco in your links Korm, thanks. The parts in 2020-1 seem to be the correct items Neil thanks. The lens is larger than the powered tender, but smaller than my Otto, thanks Phil.
Tomorrow I will check out Glendale tomorrow Playmo.
Tomorrow I will check out Glendale tomorrow Playmo.
Just a note, Jimmy, Glendale won't be open tomorrow - I believe that Brian and Caroline will be up at the British Festival of Railway Modelling show at Peterborough, according to their email newsletter - not as traders, but helping out on the Hampton End layout.
Jon.
Jon.
Jon,
Many thanks for the info.
So cleaned the wheels and skate with a little solvent and a cotton bud, put it on my outside line and it ran fine, a couple of stutters, but as they were in the same place "dirty track". So for the test my track cleaning wagon with a piece of slate for weight, and up the gradient, very impressed, better than the Otto or Bachmann mogul. However rainbow stopped play:
Well, after the run I thought a stip and clean, however all screws removed, and a number of pipes connecting the chassis to the body removed, referring to 2010D drawing. Will not come apart, suspect it may be the bulkhead holing it in place, as it would seem you need to remove the boiler to get the cab off, thoughts and suggestions.
I dn't have a Stainz, but I do have a Spremberger and in that there are a couple of screws in the cab floor which appear to hold the rear of the boiler/firebox in place. Maybe the same applies to the Stainz.
Just wondering if anybody can assist in getting this older 2020 Stainz apart, as mentioned I have removed ALL the screws I can find ( and the are obvious as this old model has steel "flat cut" heads.
Not sure if you have done this, but from memory, I think you have to remove the chimney, which is affixed with a nut on the underside of the chassis....
Gizzy, yes the chimney was unscrewed, along with a number of pipes connecting the chassis to the main body; the cab, seemed to be loose as was the boiler, but I just couldn't seem to get them to part, and now of older age and more wisdom, I have learnt (eventually) when NOT to force something.
trying to remember...
the two screws at the back. if the cabin does not move a little after that, from below the screws from the stirrups.
looking from below, near the skates there are two scrws hidden by the wheel-rods (removing the black bars this loosens to the side)
up front the screw of the front coupler, the smoke stack or both. then, at least, everything should have enough slack to find any points, where it is still fixed, that i might have forgotten.
PS: do you own a big hammer and chisel?
the two screws at the back. if the cabin does not move a little after that, from below the screws from the stirrups.
looking from below, near the skates there are two scrws hidden by the wheel-rods (removing the black bars this loosens to the side)
up front the screw of the front coupler, the smoke stack or both. then, at least, everything should have enough slack to find any points, where it is still fixed, that i might have forgotten.
PS: do you own a big hammer and chisel?