Learning; but slowly!
- 23 Feb 2018
Korm found all those screws, in total I removed 12 screws, and it was loose, but seemed to have "something preventing its release.
Those two screws definitely need removing, to free the motion links and allow the gearbox to be dropped away - but they won't actually free the cab and boiler from the footplate. Once you've pulled the whole gearbox, wheels, motion and cylinders assembly out, you should find the last secret screw - heaven knows why LGB's early designers decided to do it that way......?Yes hiding underneath, between the motion couplings.
Korm's photo shows this very well.
right.I seem to remember that some of the early Stainz did not have lens covers fitted from new.
In some ways yes, but there are some significant differences - though appearing outwardly very much the same, the venerable Stainz has seen quite a few design changes internally over the decades.Gap nice instruction, thanks, however, as Jon says this is the newer model, but I believe the principle remain the same.
I've used it to disassemble my 2010 (No 1) and 2020 Stainz (No2) there were from memory some differences but a lot of similarities.Gap nice instruction, thanks, however, as Jon says this is the newer model, but I believe the principle remain the same.
I'd forgotten about that one sideways screw through the frame, Jimmy - the "hidden" screw that I was referring to is the one an inch or so in front of the two "contact" screws in your pic above, that is the one that goes into the underside of the firebox and holds the boiler on to the footplate, which you can't get to until the power unit is out.Using the advice given my Stainz engine block is out:
This shows the screw holes through the the motion couplings, also on one side only a screw hidden away, however the big one is you need to remove (pull out) the front draw bar coupling
So three screws as above and three screws in the base (don't forget the chimney).
Power to the lights is via the contacts shown below
View attachment 246493
Okay, Glendale do not have lenses, so it would seem Traini is where I will need to go: So moving on I looking for a power socket as per the photo below, additional cable may be handy but the socket shown mounted on the tender is what I what (I think). My rational being that the tender as well powering itself would provide extra feeds to the loco.
I got my sockets and cables from
Kabelsystem Stocko für LGB und Spur-G Stecker Buchse Adapter ML-Train NEU | eBay
I ordered enough to make it worth the postage, so I have some spare straight and right angled 2 pin sockets. you'ld probably have to make a little right angled bracket to fit it to the inside of the cab, but if you private message me your address I'll send you a couple gratis.
No spare link cables I'm afraid but I may have some spare plugs to make your own with.