LGB Stainz 4

JimmyB

JimmyB

Phase 1 complete, roll on Phase 2
23 Feb 2018
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Korm found all those screws, in total I removed 12 screws, and it was loose, but seemed to have "something preventing its release.
 
Zerogee

Zerogee

Clencher's Bogleman
25 Oct 2009
16,807
199
North Essex
Jimmy, I'm also doing this from memory as it's a long while since I've dismantled a very early Stainz - but I THINK that you need to drop the gearbox/power unit out from the chassis (it's held in by the two black blocks at either end that support the couplers) - from experience it may take a bit of firm wiggling to get the unit free - and then I think you will find a last "hidden" screw that is actually holding the rear of the boiler/firebox assembly to the footplate..... remove that final screw and it should all come apart!

Jon.
 
Zerogee

Zerogee

Clencher's Bogleman
25 Oct 2009
16,807
199
North Essex
Addendum to above, make sure you've also unscrewed the two black brackets on top of the footplate that connect to the two vertical motion rods, otherwise you won't be able to completely free the power unit from the footplate.

Jon.
 
JimmyB

JimmyB

Phase 1 complete, roll on Phase 2
23 Feb 2018
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Jon, that sort of makes sense, it all back together at the moment, so removed the screws and chimney, and the power unit will drop out (though not literally), which is what I wanted out, to inspect the contacts etc.
 
PhilP

PhilP

G Scale, 7/8th's, Electronics
5 Jun 2013
23,846
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Tamworth, Staffs.
Does yours have the little screws on the motion brackets?

<obviously, I had not read Jon's post..>
 
JimmyB

JimmyB

Phase 1 complete, roll on Phase 2
23 Feb 2018
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Does yours have the little screws on the motion brackets?

<obviously, I had not read Jon's post..>
Yes hiding underneath, between the motion couplings.
Korm's photo shows this very well.

111999_40d582e29321bd984a404e3811a433ce.png
 
Zerogee

Zerogee

Clencher's Bogleman
25 Oct 2009
16,807
199
North Essex
Yes hiding underneath, between the motion couplings.
Korm's photo shows this very well.
Those two screws definitely need removing, to free the motion links and allow the gearbox to be dropped away - but they won't actually free the cab and boiler from the footplate. Once you've pulled the whole gearbox, wheels, motion and cylinders assembly out, you should find the last secret screw - heaven knows why LGB's early designers decided to do it that way......? :mad:

I seem to recall that this hidden but vital screw was the biggest hassle when I tried to reassemble an old brown-cab Stainz No.1 after DCC chipping it..... in order to connect the new wiring to the motor block, you really want the gearbox inserted into the frames BEFORE you put the boiler and cab back on, but that is impossible to do.... I think I finally figured out a solution after much cursing, but I can't clearly recall what it was!

Jon.
 
stockers

stockers

Trains, aircraft, models, walking, beer, travel
Staff member
GSC Moderator
24 Oct 2009
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Nr. Ashford, Kent. England.
I seem to remember that some of the early Stainz did not have lens covers fitted from new.
 
korm kormsen

korm kormsen

Registered
24 Oct 2009
2,466
33
I seem to remember that some of the early Stainz did not have lens covers fitted from new.
right.
my 2040 did and does not have one.
about the 2040 - the first starterset was numbered 20400-1.
i suspect, that the set number inspired the number for the loco made for this set.
in the early prospects, the 2040/or the black loco number 4 were never advertised for sale as loco.
 
GAP

GAP

G Scale trains, Lawn Bowls.
14 Jun 2011
2,475
40
65
Bundaberg Queensland, Australia
dunnyrail

dunnyrail

DOGS, Garden Railways, Steam Trains, Jive Dancing,
25 Oct 2009
15,205
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St.Neots Cambridgeshire UK
Stainz disassembly instructions I used
WaltonsModels.co.uk
Nice link, however it is the more modern version than Jimmy has so will be quite a bit different. It will be very useful for me as I have 3, two of them in lots of bits to put back together to move on!
 
JimmyB

JimmyB

Phase 1 complete, roll on Phase 2
23 Feb 2018
1,993
316
65
Weston-super-Mare
Gap nice instruction, thanks, however, as Jon says this is the newer model, but I believe the principle remain the same.
 
Zerogee

Zerogee

Clencher's Bogleman
25 Oct 2009
16,807
199
North Essex
Gap nice instruction, thanks, however, as Jon says this is the newer model, but I believe the principle remain the same.
In some ways yes, but there are some significant differences - though appearing outwardly very much the same, the venerable Stainz has seen quite a few design changes internally over the decades.

Jon.
 
GAP

GAP

G Scale trains, Lawn Bowls.
14 Jun 2011
2,475
40
65
Bundaberg Queensland, Australia
Gap nice instruction, thanks, however, as Jon says this is the newer model, but I believe the principle remain the same.
I've used it to disassemble my 2010 (No 1) and 2020 Stainz (No2) there were from memory some differences but a lot of similarities.
The tricky bits were the little crank looking bits that went between the boiler and the cab.
 
JimmyB

JimmyB

Phase 1 complete, roll on Phase 2
23 Feb 2018
1,993
316
65
Weston-super-Mare
Using the advice given my Stainz engine block is out:

This shows the screw holes through the the motion couplings, also on one side only a screw hidden away, however the big one is you need to remove (pull out) the front draw bar coupling


112095_86fa68813860fff5cce6aae4a85daeca.jpg


So three screws as above and three screws in the base (don't forget the chimney).

112097_d038c25576d0bf8d824a3d5c21341585.jpg


Power to the lights is via the contacts shown below

112099_5063dfd7ed12f13d8967fb53814962e5.jpg
 
JimmyB

JimmyB

Phase 1 complete, roll on Phase 2
23 Feb 2018
1,993
316
65
Weston-super-Mare
Okay, Glendale do not have lenses, so it would seem Traini is where I will need to go: So moving on I looking for a power socket as per the photo below, additional cable may be handy but the socket shown mounted on the tender is what I what (I think). My rational being that the tender as well powering itself would provide extra feeds to the loco.

112107_21280ad8c541424545101888e7a4eb99.jpg


112109_e90973a4556640bccc382256ce537d8c.jpg
 
JimmyB

JimmyB

Phase 1 complete, roll on Phase 2
23 Feb 2018
1,993
316
65
Weston-super-Mare
PhilP, could be a good alternative, will bear in mind.
 
Zerogee

Zerogee

Clencher's Bogleman
25 Oct 2009
16,807
199
North Essex
Using the advice given my Stainz engine block is out:

This shows the screw holes through the the motion couplings, also on one side only a screw hidden away, however the big one is you need to remove (pull out) the front draw bar coupling




So three screws as above and three screws in the base (don't forget the chimney).


Power to the lights is via the contacts shown below

View attachment 246493
I'd forgotten about that one sideways screw through the frame, Jimmy - the "hidden" screw that I was referring to is the one an inch or so in front of the two "contact" screws in your pic above, that is the one that goes into the underside of the firebox and holds the boiler on to the footplate, which you can't get to until the power unit is out.

Jon.
 
Paul2727

Paul2727

Registered
5 Jun 2018
202
41
England
Okay, Glendale do not have lenses, so it would seem Traini is where I will need to go: So moving on I looking for a power socket as per the photo below, additional cable may be handy but the socket shown mounted on the tender is what I what (I think). My rational being that the tender as well powering itself would provide extra feeds to the loco.

Hi Jimmy,
I got my sockets and cables from
Kabelsystem Stocko für LGB und Spur-G Stecker Buchse Adapter ML-Train NEU | eBay
I ordered enough to make it worth the postage, so I have some spare straight and right angled 2 pin sockets. you'ld probably have to make a little right angled bracket to fit it to the inside of the cab, but if you private message me your address I'll send you a couple gratis.
No spare link cables I'm afraid but I may have some spare plugs to make your own with.
Regards,
Paul.