Agree, per max,
get it matched……
But, if you’re like me, this may be just a little too much effort.
Fwiw, rustoleum ‘painters touch’ 2x paint and primer. It has no color name, but its a red id describe as a dull ruby. For durability, and decal adherence, id suggest gloss. I used matte for my project. In looking at the rustoleum chart, re your question, i think it was colonial red. Instead I think the gloss apple might work….dunno.
Its a rattle can.
I just checked my own dsp cars and another model that i painted with the above colonial red.
I think if you use a light or white primer, the colonial red will have a brightness similar to the LGB.
Very close, but not exact.
i also think that because the lgb bodies are black plastic, the original red takes a bit darker tone. Point, you may wish to consider an appropriate primer color. For the rustoleum gloss apple, blind guessing from the chart and my screen, perhaps dark grey or black primer.
Being an N scale UP modeler, i cannot emphasize enough how much the underlying color changes the top coat in vividness.
Fwiw, i normally use tamaya paints. They provide a superb self leveling finish. Not terribly durable.
I used to avoid non-model paints, but rr colors are rare now.
While the rustoleum is thicker, larger paint particles, with care and thin coating, ive gotten excellent results. Thin coats in order to avoid runs. Those wood joints need to be shot at both angles. To avoid pools or runs, paint, let it set up an hour or whatever , go again. I used micro mask for the windows, door handles. 2 coats.(picks off more easily.
fwiw, i live in dry Colorado, and it takes almost a week for the paint to get really hard and cured. Once it does, its very weather resistant.
As for tamaya, i have used italian red, very bright, but with a black undercoat, it looks more like texaco red (which is also close). Unfortunately , the mica red is closer, but, metallic flake….Not terribly weather worthy. Good luck.