My question concerns the running of a Stainz over different switch sizes. I have both a R1 and a R3 on my circuit. Everything runs fine through the R3. But the Stainz wants to stall at low speed through the R1. There’s good odds the track work is less dodgy around the R3. Will a small engine perform better through an R5 then a R3 switch?
LGB points vs 0-4-0
- Thread starter Edgar
- Start date
In theory it should as the R5’s have metal inserts in the frog gap that the flange runs on.
However this is a pain to keep clean so that in time even an 0-6-0 Corpet has difficulties with the R5. We used to use very low grit emery on on sticks to clean the metal up a real pain.
One of the issues with Stainz can be that the track is less than perfectly flat, check this out on the point by using a metal rule at all angles to see that the point is perfectly flat.
Another possible issue may be that you are not picking up on all of the wheels and sliders. Just one faulty one can cause issues. You can check this with a Meter to see if each power pick up wheel and slider is connected each side. The other way if you do not have a meter is to put the loco on blocks with a couple of lengths of wire with crock clips each side. Connect the crocks to the sliders and the rail. Power up and the loco should be working. Now undo one crock from one side slider and touch each wheel in turn that side to see if the loco works. Reconnect the crock and repeat the test the other side.
I sometimes have a problem with my LGB Spremberger and Playmobil tank engine (both 0-4-0s) on R1 points. I find, other things being equal, that a rub over the points and the track either side with a cleaner block solves the stutter.
I find the brass guide rail inserts from Bertram Heyn help in on R1 points as they improve the conductivity and keep the wheels on track. You can make them yourself if you're handy it's just a brass strip.
Of course the Stainz only has two pick ups on one side due to the traction tyre, so the direction of travel will make a difference.
I’m confident most of the problem is with the R1 not being perfectly level or possibly opposing pressures from the three different substrates supporting the track coming into the point (wood on ground, wood floating, and cross tie); I’ll get a picture once it gets light here. I’ve currently addressed the issue with an evil bay post van that ensures power to the Stainz motor. Jon’s notation of metal in frog sounds like a maintenance issue I was unaware of.
I am curious if the length of the R5 adds stability to the integrity of track work.
As a complete reconfiguration and expansion of the railway is contemplated; will R5’s function smoother than R3’s? Will R5’s require more maintenance than R3’s.
All of my traction tires have dry rotted away. So I’ve wondered if the grove in the wheels potentially damage the track over time.
This is something I’ll research as R1’s will always be present for a switch yard and spurs. Attempts to use all existing inventory is required.
There will be a little wear, initially..
But both track and wheel are brass, and once the edges have rounded off a little, wear should be pretty minimal.
PhilP
Another thing to try...
Clean the rear face of the wheels, where the carbon pickups rub.. It does not have to be super-clean, but a rub with a cloth, dampened with a little IPA (alcohol) should sort it.
Also check the carbon brushes are not overly worn, or have a ridge in the side, which can cause them to jam and lose contact.
PhilP
Clean the rear face of the wheels, where the carbon pickups rub.. It does not have to be super-clean, but a rub with a cloth, dampened with a little IPA (alcohol) should sort it.
Also check the carbon brushes are not overly worn, or have a ridge in the side, which can cause them to jam and lose contact.
PhilP
That could be the problem, lack of traction tyres is likely to cause a bit of a wobble as not all wheels will be at the same level. The one sans traction tyre will be slightly lower.
Not being level is not necessarily a problem it is the twist that becomes the issue, i.e. where one wheel lifts off the track, so is you track leading to and from the points are at the same angel then that would work. However if you whole railways is on flat ground (no gradients) then the point sitting off level becomes an issue.
I have gradients with curves and points and the geometry is important to prevent de-railing, along with the larger G Gauge wheel flanges, you need to get the foundations within tolerance, and the track will take care of its self.
I believe you mentioned in a different thread the skates on a short engine having a tendency to get hung in the frog of a R3. And earlier here that the R5 has a hard to clean spot. Is there any reason that either the R3or5 would perform better than the other for a short engine?
Some locos and stock can "clonk" at the frog of LGB R3 points as the check rails aren't quite positioned correctly to their job. I never had any problems with short locos on R3 though. I don't recall any problems with skates, other than I think on one second hand Playmobil chassis someone had filed the skates narrower - but giving them a slight upward bend cured any problems.
LGB R5s are lovely points, but one thing I did with both of mine was to make and fit a metal frog V in place of the plastic insert, and re-wired the point as a "live frog" with polarity of the frog controlled by an accessory switch on the point motor. This was mainly because I ran various brands of loco on my line and not all had flanges deep enough to reach the conductivity strips at the bottom of the R5 frog. My Maerklin Maxi 0-6-0 was one obvious example. On my N gauge layouts I'm used to live frog points.
I'd say definitely replace the traction tyre on your Stainz. It's meant to have one!
LGB R5s are lovely points, but one thing I did with both of mine was to make and fit a metal frog V in place of the plastic insert, and re-wired the point as a "live frog" with polarity of the frog controlled by an accessory switch on the point motor. This was mainly because I ran various brands of loco on my line and not all had flanges deep enough to reach the conductivity strips at the bottom of the R5 frog. My Maerklin Maxi 0-6-0 was one obvious example. On my N gauge layouts I'm used to live frog points.
I'd say definitely replace the traction tyre on your Stainz. It's meant to have one!
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The inside rail was low going into the switch and the outside rail low coming out of it. Twisted. Yet I had to run the train at 2.9 volts for it to stall (slow enough that it would be as much fun watching caulk dry). It usually runs ok though the point. I went ahead and shoved some dirt under the track board and got most of the twist out.
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I got up at 2:30am to stoke the wood stove and read y’all telling each other good morning in the coffee lounge. I had honest intentions of accomplishing something my wife would consider constructive. Now it’s 1:30 in the afternoon and I’ve spent the better part of what’s become a beautiful day playing trains.
Sincerely, thank you!
Sincerely, thank you!
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