LGB 5075

M

Miguelito

Registered
Sure this has been answered but I can't find it. Trying to get the circuit board out of a 5075N. Bottom off, pin connectors unscrewed. LGB diagram shows no internal attachment. Board not secured from the input/control terminal strip; moves up and down easily. Very secure from the control button side. Any way to get in to replace a bulb or switch?
 
There are a couple of those horrible sloppy snap in connectors, one each side. I destroyed on on one side to get into mine. You can see a gap where it has clipped into on the side.
Original
E77C1E0C-C9A3-412B-B2D0-94E775AAD2CD.jpeg
As bodged with small holes for pins to hold in place
C15B5961-C6F3-4AB2-A925-57B37B47FB16.jpeg
Hope I have the correct problem that you are asking about.
 
Thanks! Once the bottom was off and the pins removed did the board simply fall out? The LGB instruction sheet seems to indicate it should but this one is glued in along the edge opposite the screw terminal. The sheet (and the unit itself) seem to suggest the board is held in place by the pin extensions protruding from the bottom plate and pressing on the circuit board - which should fall out once the bottom and pins are removed. But this one is cemented in place in some way. Is that what you found or did your board fall out as I expected it should?
 
Ah, this is useful, I have a 5075 and a 51750 each with a switch which works interrmittently. I've been trying gently to prise off the base to get inside to vac round, but without success. Guided destruction seems to be the answer.
 
I realize this is an old thread, but I wanted to post a reply as it came up in many repeated searches as I was trying to figure out how to fix a couple of "dead" switches on two "new to me" 5075 switch boxes and I figured that my solve might help someone else. I was trying to take my boxes apart to see if I could figure out what was wrong and came to the same conclusion that without some special tool setup some form of destruction was necessary to open them.

However, I ended up trying something else much simpler that worked in my particular case. A can of aerosol "sensitive electronics cleaner" was the key. I just sprayed it into the crevasses along the edges of the switches and just worked them back and forth for about 15-30 seconds. Right side up. Up side down. Turning it upside down allowed most of the excess fluid to drain out. I then used compressed air to blow around any extra fluid and hopefully dry it out more quickly. Both boxes work like a charm now. No disassembly nor destruction necessary. Give it a try if your switches aren't working. It may just be a slightly dirty switch.

I signed up here just to post this. Hopefully it helps someone.
 
TempLayout said:
I realize this is an old thread, but I wanted to post a reply as it came up in many repeated searches as I was trying to figure out how to fix a couple of "dead" switches on two "new to me" 5075 switch boxes and I figured that my solve might help someone else. I was trying to take my boxes apart to see if I could figure out what was wrong and came to the same conclusion that without some special tool setup some form of destruction was necessary to open them.

However, I ended up trying something else much simpler that worked in my particular case. A can of aerosol "sensitive electronics cleaner" was the key. I just sprayed it into the crevasses along the edges of the switches and just worked them back and forth for about 15-30 seconds. Right side up. Up side down. Turning it upside down allowed most of the excess fluid to drain out. I then used compressed air to blow around any extra fluid and hopefully dry it out more quickly. Both boxes work like a charm now. No disassembly nor destruction necessary. Give it a try if your switches aren't working. It may just be a slightly dirty switch.

I signed up here just to post this. Hopefully it helps someone.
Click to expand...
Oh I have one with a faulty switch, tried a few times to sell it and another with no luck. Perhaps if I manage to get the other switch working I may be lucky, once pulled apart I may resort to a clean with WD40.
 
Software Tools said:
NOOOOOOOO! Use a lubricating contact cleaner and leave the WD 40 for rusty bolts etc.
Click to expand...
Certainly don't want to spray original WD-40 in there. I agree. In dunny's defense though, WD-40 does make an electrical contact cleaner. But this is the internet and for clarity's sake... You're comment stands strong. :)
 
TempLayout said:
Certainly don't want to spray original WD-40 in there. I agree. In dunny's defense though, WD-40 does make an electrical contact cleaner. But this is the internet and for clarity's sake... You're comment stands strong. :)
Click to expand...
Yes that was what I was likely thinking about.
 
There have been many discussion on here about WD-40, which now make many different products, however the original water displacement WB-40 contained acetone, which is hydroscopic, which is why it was so good.
 
JimmyB said:
There have been many discussion on here about WD-40, which now make many different products, however the original water displacement WB-40 contained acetone, which is hydroscopic, which is why it was so good.
Click to expand...
My water displacement equipment is microscopic, which is why it is so disappointing.

David
 
JimmyB said:
There have been many discussion on here about WD-40, which now make many different products, however the original water displacement WB-40 contained acetone, which is hydroscopic, which is why it was so good.
Click to expand...
When I owned my Mini, a squirt of WD40 on the HT leads was the only thing that got it going on damp mornings.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom