LGB 28001 motor noise
- Thread starter Slawman
- Start date
Oh forgot one of the gear trains can get out by a notch or two. This can effect quartering, put loco on the track and carefully try to see if the spokes are all at the same angle in relation to each other. If not again you need to delve into the underside taking off the holding plate and move offending wheel a notch or two till those spokes all align. Probably best to stop and look one side with the rods closest to the body and mount the loco on some foam with something to stop it flopping over. Put screws in a secure container.
Slawman
Deckline
Thanks everyone for your consideration and reply. I am not familiar with Quartering, will need to learn about that and apply. I will probably take the gearbox out next to see how the motor sounds free of any drive components. The humming does not sound like it is coming from the motor itself.
Quartering is the difference between to orientation of the rods from one side of the loco to the other. Rods down one side the other side will be 1/4 different up. Expression used within us modelers to say if something not quite right as I covered earlier. If you pull the wheels out you will need to get the quartering correct and that may solve your problem. Take some pictures if you can when pulling apart as there will be wires that make connection with wheel springs and track sliders. Important to get them back as they come out.
Rhinochugger
Retired Oik
Yes, it's worth remembering that connecting rods between the wheels are not 180 degrees opposed, they are at 90 degrees.
It's to prevent stalling on 1:1 real steam engines
The mechanic
Registered
Don't forget to note if the connecting rods are "right-hand leading" or "left-hand leading" too. This means if the right-hand rod is at 3 o'clock and the left-hand rod is at 12 o'clock, (viewed from the rear of the locomotive and the locomotive moving forwards) this is termed "right-hand leading" rods.Yes, it's worth remembering that connecting rods between the wheels are not 180 degrees opposed, they are at 90 degrees.
It's to prevent stalling on 1:1 real steam engines
If the same locomotive had the left-hand rod at 6 o'clock, this would be "left-hand leading" rods.
Hope the above is self-explanatory? ... You would be amazed at how many people do not appreciate this issue..... From experience on the full-size railway, not all locomotives are the same and as always, it is worth checking the prototype!!
Dave
Slawman
Deckline
Hi Dave,
I think I get it. How would I know which of the two this model is? I assume it would be possible to re-assemble the wheel box either way (I have not tried this, just a guess).
ge_rik
British narrow gauge (esp. Southwold and W&LLR)
There's also an audible click on each rotation of the wheels. Something is catching somewhere.
Rik
ge_rik
British narrow gauge (esp. Southwold and W&LLR)
As others have said, when you reassemble, make sure the gears on the two powered axles are in sync. Easy to get them one tooth out of alignment.
Rik
JimmyB
Now retired - trains and fishing
Mark one eyeball for this, you need to ensure the con rod connections are all aligned, I like to do this with one set at 12 or 6 o'clock, and the opposite side at 3 or 9 o'clock (hope this make sense) but you shouls be able to see the are correctly in line.
You do not really need to worry overmuch about which side is leading the wheels on your loco will define this. What matters is the gear orientation being out by a couple of cogs as me and others have noted. If this is out a bit it can cause lumpy running and possibly a click with the valve gear getting a bit out of sinc between the wheels. Have you done that close check on the spokes between wheels yet?
AlanL
Registered
Whilst we always refer to quartering on our models in actual fact the quartering is fixed by the manufacture in the assembly of the axles.
All we can do is ensure that both the driven axles have their crank pins at identical positions of rotation. So if you look at the loco from the side, both crank pins should be in exactly the same position. You don't need to check the opposite side of the loco because this is fixed at the factory.
Bear in mind the backlash in the drive - each axle will have a small amount of rotational movement ie. backlash between it's gear and the worm drive. This might be worse with a loco that has been worked hard and has wear in the gears.
I tend to pay attention to this slack by rotating the motor so that 1 axle is exactly at (say) 12 o'clock with the slack equally both sides of that by rotating the first axle back and forth with it's slack. Then ckeck the other axle in the same way.
If they are not the same then the solution is to remove the base plate of the gearbox and rotate 1 axle by 1 tooth of it's drive gear to restore the alignment.
Alan
All we can do is ensure that both the driven axles have their crank pins at identical positions of rotation. So if you look at the loco from the side, both crank pins should be in exactly the same position. You don't need to check the opposite side of the loco because this is fixed at the factory.
Bear in mind the backlash in the drive - each axle will have a small amount of rotational movement ie. backlash between it's gear and the worm drive. This might be worse with a loco that has been worked hard and has wear in the gears.
I tend to pay attention to this slack by rotating the motor so that 1 axle is exactly at (say) 12 o'clock with the slack equally both sides of that by rotating the first axle back and forth with it's slack. Then ckeck the other axle in the same way.
If they are not the same then the solution is to remove the base plate of the gearbox and rotate 1 axle by 1 tooth of it's drive gear to restore the alignment.
Alan
The mechanic
Registered
If you get hold of the relevant LGB service diagram, it usually shows the connecting rod/wheel quartering position (as screenshot below). From that you can easily see if the connecting rods are left-hand leading or right-hand leading due to the position of the crankpins (or failing that, the position of the wheel counter balance weights). - The diagram below is for your 28001 and has right-hand leading crankpins / connecting rods.
Note, I usually get most of my LGB service diagrams from modell-land.de (just follow the screen prompts for LGB spares.)
Hope this helps?... Good luck in getting your loco running properly again!
Dave
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The mechanic
Registered
If leading rod is correctly fitted and the wheels are subsequently quartered from this, I agree, however as comments in post #18 by PhilP.... If orientation is not true, it will cause quartering issues as the chassis will not be assembled to design-intent..
Dave
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