Lgb 25910

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I've got mine...
It's already been chopped about. Out of the box:
IMG_6590-710097.JPG

To this:
IMG_6591-713167.JPG


Next up - painting the wheels satin red, and painting the roof, front grill and air vent black. Will go nicely with the O&K and my feldbahn stock.
I've picked up a second O&K so need to do some transfers to re-number it to Lok2.
 
It's actually pretty easy to modify the roof to the correct style (no overhang). I marked the line with masking tape, starting with the tape flush with the cab side, running over the roof, and lining up on the second side, then pushing down firmly and checking it was straight by eye. I then used a razor saw to gently saw along the edge of the masking tape.
 
Am I right:
Cab roof overhang gone, and cut-down air filter thingy??
 
PhilP said:
Am I right:
Cab roof overhang gone, and cut-down air filter thingy??
Click to expand...

No just the roof cut down. I did ponder re-locating the air filter as it's on the wrong side (at least from the prototypes I've looked at), but I don't plan on a full repaint at the moment so I'll leave it where it is :)
 
jameshilton said:
I've got mine...
It's already been chopped about. Out of the box:
IMG_6590-710097.JPG

To this:
IMG_6591-713167.JPG


Next up - painting the wheels satin red, and painting the roof, front grill and air vent black. Will go nicely with the O&K and my feldbahn stock.
I've picked up a second O&K so need to do some transfers to re-number it to Lok2.
Click to expand...


Why am I not surprised James.....LOL
 
Arthur Aardvark said:
Looking good, nice job you've done there, mine is on it's way...............having fitted a decoder to the O&K, this one will be easier second time around!
Click to expand...

I will be interested in which decoder you fit, and if you find problems with the motor overheating..
Could you let me know the make / model of decoder, and motor when you get that far please?
TIA,
PhilP.
 
Arthur Aardvark said:
Hi PhiliP,

The O&K was fitted with a Massoth M Decoder, tabs snipped off and shorten the wires, there is a space at the front underside to fit the decoder into, the chassis's appear to be identical, perhaps James could post a picture of the underside to confirm this.

As for running, the O&K runs like a dream, no signs of overheating, it was trundling around for a while at GRAIL, did not have any problems negotiating R1 points, showed no outwards signs of the "three legged stool" that some of the other short wheel base 0-4-0's display from time to time, probably will have "voltage buffer" fitted at some point, have a redesigned version of the Massoth version from their hints and tips section, has a SMT low profile capacitor to help reduce the height, one of them is on test, hooked up to the 8FS decoder to see how it behaves.
Click to expand...

This is really strange..
I have the older model here.. It came to me originally with a LGB decoder, which had turned to charcoal!
I fitted the little Massoth M, and it went back to the Client.. Came back a while later, with this decoder burnt out..
Fitted new decoder, and new motor, as motor seemed to be 'rough' and drawing more current than I considered normal.
Went back to Client, and was returned again.. "Slows down, very noisey running, then stops.."

If I run analogue, directly to motor, it is fine.. Motor warm after two hours.
If I connect decoder, and run analogue, it is fine.. Motor warm after two hours.
If I run DCC, the motor gets too hot to touch within about fifteen minutes of running.

I have tried two M decoders, and get the same results.

This has to be a problem of how the decoder is driving the motor under digital control, But I am unable to get any sensible suggestions from Massoth.

This is not connected (I don't think) but there was only one ball-bearing in the model to control lateral play on the motor shaft.
I was advised NOT to fit a ball-bearing with the new motor. - Supposedly a design change.
 
The motor in these older models is not a Buhler - it is cheaper. One reason for these locos appearing to be good value. I don't know what make the new motor is but Marklin have stated that it is a new one.

You can adjust the frequency of the current fed to the motor in CV9. The default is 0, the range is 0-3.
It is known that some motors perform better and cooler at lower frequencies, but how you find out which I dont know. Trial and error probably and use your hand as a measuring device.
Value 0 is 16Khz. Higher CV values are actually lower frequencies.
Back EMF/Load control only works on value 0.
 
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They are Buhler motors, Alan..
I would have thought if there was anything 'strange' in the configuration of the LGB decoder, then Massoth would have known about it, and come up with CV values to suit for the M decoder.

Unless Buhler do a motor which is not designed for a decoder output? - Though what the difference is between the decoder output with analogue 'in', as opposed to DCC 'in', I don't know.
 
You could try a Zimo MX632 decoder Phil. Do a calibration run with it which tunes the decoder to the actual motor installed instead of using generic settings.
The motor control on newer decoders is superb so a 'side effect' would be improved slow speed running too.
 
I will look it up.. It needs to be a tiny decoder to fit in the available space behind the buffer-beam.
 
Yes, made the flat car myself. Designed from scratch using dimensions from an LGB model, and then printed with my 3D printer. Turned out quite well. Can make a separate thread about it if there's any interest.
 
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