LGB 22155

I don't unfortunately.. Would simply soldering the inner contact pins to the outer pins get it running?
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Got it working!! The loco runs a bit faster then the tender I've noticed though.
This is often the case with these it seems? Not sure if it is down to gearing, the motor or the wheel diameter.

But at least you are learning and whilst I was having lunch, you've got it working....
 
Got it working!! The loco runs a bit faster then the tender I've noticed though.

I'd run the tender in for a while, a good half an hour in each direction - either on test rollers if you have them, otherwise on a simple loop of track (or just put it up on blocks, clip power to the skates and let it run on the spot). That may bed everything in and bring the speed up a little.

Jon.
 
I'd run the tender in for a while, a good half an hour in each direction - either on test rollers if you have them, otherwise on a simple loop of track (or just put it up on blocks, clip power to the skates and let it run on the spot). That may bed everything in and bring the speed up a little.

Jon.
Good idea! I'm uploading a video of it, at some point I don't know when I might buy a more suitable motor if it doesn't work out as I'm worried of burning one of the two motors out.
 
Looks much happier than before! Still makes me think there must have been something not running freely in the tender, and that could still be the case now?

I doubt LGB would knowingly sell a loco that by design (with only one motor) could hardly pull itself round corners, I'd have been checking the skates and wheel bearings.
 
Looks much happier than before! Still makes me think there must have been something not running freely in the tender, and that could still be the case now?

I doubt LGB would knowingly sell a loco that by design (with only one motor) could hardly pull itself round corners, I'd have been checking the skates and wheel bearings.
That's what I thought! I've looked all over at it but I can't see anything wrong! It's basically brand new I've hardly ran it because it couldn't pull anything
 
If you take my advice of running the tender in, do it with JUST the tender, not with the loco too. The tender will run under its own power now you've made the wiring connections.
Normally with a two-motor steam loco like this, you might expect the tender to actually run slightly FASTER than the loco, as the loco motor has the extra load of the coupling rods and motion while the tender is running free; if you're finding the opposite, and it still persists after some running-in, then there must be some extra drag in the tender somewhere. When you put the motor in, did you apply a SMALL dab of a suitable grease to both worms and gears?

Jon.
 
I'm going to run it in tomorrow as I've got to head of to work, I didn't apply any grease as there was already quite a lot on the gears. I get the feeling a new motor is going to be required as the Schoma was always a bit slow. But I'll give it a shot!
 
I'm going to run it in tomorrow as I've got to head of to work, I didn't apply any grease as there was already quite a lot on the gears. I get the feeling a new motor is going to be required as the Schoma was always a bit slow. But I'll give it a shot!

If the gears were already greased, then no more should be needed - I assumed they might be "dry" as a motor was not factory-fitted.

Re the motor itself, I had obviously not read your earlier posts carefully enough, I had missed the fact that you were trying the old motor out of your Schoema! D'oh, sorry......
I'd put that back in the Schoema and fit a brand new one in the tender, which should be better matched to the effectively new motor in the loco.

Jon.
 
If the gears were already greased, then no more should be needed - I assumed they might be "dry" as a motor was not factory-fitted.

Re the motor itself, I had obviously not read your earlier posts carefully enough, I had missed the fact that you were trying the old motor out of your Schoema! D'oh, sorry......
I'd put that back in the Schoema and fit a brand new one in the tender, which should be better matched to the effectively new motor in the loco.

Jon.

I'm planning to do that, I simply did it to try it out and see how much better it'd run.
 
All of the Stainz locos and tenders I have seen have connections for a cable to tie track power between the engine and tender, no reason to take them apart. A note of caution, never mix a decoder motorized powered unit with a DC only motorized unit as they will never run at the same speeds and cause wheel wear and gear stress.
 
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