LGB 20851 Mallet broken connecting rod
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Zerogee
Clencher's Bogleman
Modell-Land has a lot of Mallet parts listed:
http://www.modell-land.de/ersatzteile-dampfloks-drmallet-sound-20850-c-187_189.html?page=1&sort=2a < Link To http://www.modell-land.de...tml?page=1&sort=2a
....but sadly I can't see that particular rod on their list. Does anyone know if it's a common part with any other LGB locos, as it's not unusual for Modell-Land to list some parts in odd places?
Jon.
http://www.modell-land.de/ersatzteile-dampfloks-drmallet-sound-20850-c-187_189.html?page=1&sort=2a < Link To http://www.modell-land.de...tml?page=1&sort=2a
....but sadly I can't see that particular rod on their list. Does anyone know if it's a common part with any other LGB locos, as it's not unusual for Modell-Land to list some parts in odd places?
Jon.
Neil Robinson
Registered
I managed to effect a repair to a similar rod off a Saxon-Meyer for another forum member. When he removed the rod he found some vegetation wound round the crankpin and resolved to trim his borders back a little more often.
If you have no luck sourcing a spare I'd be willing to attempt a repair. No guarantee of success though and the repair would be visible on close inspection, more functional than cosmetic.
Send me a P.M. if you would like to take me up on this offer.
If you have no luck sourcing a spare I'd be willing to attempt a repair. No guarantee of success though and the repair would be visible on close inspection, more functional than cosmetic.
Send me a P.M. if you would like to take me up on this offer.
Zerogee
Clencher's Bogleman
funandtrains said:
B*gger, there goes that good idea.... oh well, it was just a thought!
So, does anything else share the Euro mallet's con rods? Any other LGB 6-driver chassis, Spreewald, Frank S, Harz 2-6-2 etc...?
Given LGB's well known habit of re-using existing parts where possible, I'd be surprised if it isn't common to SOMETHING else?
Jon.
Thanks for the replies.
Further info:
using my verynear callipers the axles are equispaced @49mm centres, I had a look at my U series and my battered old 2080 and both these have the centre axle closer to the rear one.
Unfortunately the only German I can remember from school is Spiegelei & Bratkartoffeln, so I can't just email Modell-Land, unfortunate that they seem to have every piece of the motion except the con rod.
I checked the quartering, and moved the front axle a tooth, but that has made it worse, so it is as right as it will ever be, the rod must have hit something.
Thanks for the offer Neil, I have glued it with methylene chloride (plastic weld) but there isn't much surface to stick to, so I'm looking at getting a staple in the reverse side to strengthen it up, a new one would be the best option though.
Further info:
using my verynear callipers the axles are equispaced @49mm centres, I had a look at my U series and my battered old 2080 and both these have the centre axle closer to the rear one.
Unfortunately the only German I can remember from school is Spiegelei & Bratkartoffeln, so I can't just email Modell-Land, unfortunate that they seem to have every piece of the motion except the con rod.
I checked the quartering, and moved the front axle a tooth, but that has made it worse, so it is as right as it will ever be, the rod must have hit something.
Thanks for the offer Neil, I have glued it with methylene chloride (plastic weld) but there isn't much surface to stick to, so I'm looking at getting a staple in the reverse side to strengthen it up, a new one would be the best option though.
stevedenver
Registered
well the GOOD NEWS ISZerogee said:
i know for fact that the spacing on the rods is IDENTICAL,
i just pulled both engines and compared blocks and wheel spacing-they are identical-the unitah does NOT use a mogul block
AND
i just went and checked my spares; rods-for the unitah and the euro mallet-a sumpter valler/uintah rod WILL fit a euro mallet-the driver spacing is identical -the holes on each rod align-and the newer rods have larger, oval holes that allow for more play- ( overlaid one on top of the other -perfect alignment as the say in Greenwich)
i too hit a tiny bit of debris, a twig i think, with my euro mallet in early spring and the damned thing broke-was able to find one french unpainted rod-and a couple of the uintah-(just in case)
however, the sumpter valley/ uintah version has VERY different lubrication ports than the euro version-it will look different-(while i havent tried this-as i think the material is brittle and i wouldnt risk it)-it might be able to be trimmed down a bit to make the larger lube ports (or whatever they are) less pronounced
i suggest ordering a few until the euro mallet is re-released
Zerogee
Clencher's Bogleman
Thanks for that info Steve!
Facade - assuming that Marklin/LGB have made a stock of new spares for the just-re-released US Mallet, you SHOULD be able to get them through the normal spares supply chain (Chalk Garden Rail, I think?); Modell-Land and Warenreich (and Champex-Linden, who may be worth a try anyway - forgot about them?) have the remaining old stocks of original spares from the big LGB sell-off in 2006/7, which is why they have a odd and patchy selection of parts for many locos.
Jon.
Facade - assuming that Marklin/LGB have made a stock of new spares for the just-re-released US Mallet, you SHOULD be able to get them through the normal spares supply chain (Chalk Garden Rail, I think?); Modell-Land and Warenreich (and Champex-Linden, who may be worth a try anyway - forgot about them?) have the remaining old stocks of original spares from the big LGB sell-off in 2006/7, which is why they have a odd and patchy selection of parts for many locos.
Jon.
Thanks everybody!
The US mallet part is (I hope)
20882V114 KUPPELSTANGE MATT VERCHROMT
Sounds right, Champex-Linden list them @ 3.10 euros with huge postage costs, I emailed Chalk to see if they can help.
Steve, if I do order from Champex-Linden I'll give you a shout first.
In the meantime I have pinned and glued it, the front wheels drive the centre, there is a much larger hole at the back, will have to see how it goes.
(I found some 5mm aluminium and a file, but that is a very last resort.)
Cheers
Martin
The US mallet part is (I hope)
20882V114 KUPPELSTANGE MATT VERCHROMT
Sounds right, Champex-Linden list them @ 3.10 euros with huge postage costs, I emailed Chalk to see if they can help.
Steve, if I do order from Champex-Linden I'll give you a shout first.
In the meantime I have pinned and glued it, the front wheels drive the centre, there is a much larger hole at the back, will have to see how it goes.
(I found some 5mm aluminium and a file, but that is a very last resort.)
Cheers
Martin
Yes thanks, I did read that, I could bump the order up with some spare couplers or get all 4 rods, but I read somewhere the carriage was 19 euros.
I was quite excited, until I realised how much a euro is in pounds
:
I'm waiting to see what Chalk Garden Rail say before I go to Champex-Linden.
It is running again now, with the repaired rod.
I was quite excited, until I realised how much a euro is in pounds
:I'm waiting to see what Chalk Garden Rail say before I go to Champex-Linden.
It is running again now, with the repaired rod.
stevedenver
Registered
in looking at the rod, facade-(oooohloverly rhyme)lol....
i mentioned that i have the same issue -mine broke in the center however-
in looking again at your photo,
i shall use some meths on a pipe cleaner to clean the surface, rough it up a bit with a fine file for better purchase,
and
i think put some close fitting masking tape behind the broken area to hold the glue while it sets , and that i shall then fill the small hollow area between the connection bars (??) with a fast setting epoxy or even something called jb weld liquid steel-an epoxy , and see if that gives it some real strength due to a good deal more surface area for the glue to hold.......thoughts???
i mentioned that i have the same issue -mine broke in the center however-
in looking again at your photo,
i shall use some meths on a pipe cleaner to clean the surface, rough it up a bit with a fine file for better purchase,
and
i think put some close fitting masking tape behind the broken area to hold the glue while it sets , and that i shall then fill the small hollow area between the connection bars (??) with a fast setting epoxy or even something called jb weld liquid steel-an epoxy , and see if that gives it some real strength due to a good deal more surface area for the glue to hold.......thoughts???
What I have done is use plastic weld to stick the broken end on, but it is slightly out of line, presumably some distortion happened when the broken end turned round and hammered the oiler cap off.
I then drilled a 0.5mm hole through the centre of the tapered wedge (Looks like the full size one adjusts the bearings by pulling that wedge up with a bolt) hooked a staple in and scratched a mark on the rod for the hole for the other leg of the staple, drilled this hole then pushed the staple in.
I grooved the plastic slightly to take the staple, with the dremmel, cut the staple legs short, and pushed it in finally and bent the leg over into the groove.
Whilst I had the dremmel out, I tizzled around the staple with a dental burr and inside the voids around the wedge to key the glue, then looked for the metal loaded epoxy, gave up and used a blob of araldite to cover all the staple and hopefully form a strong fillet.
The araldite is a bit too rubbery for my liking, also it never seems to stick to LGB plastic very well.
All in all, it used up over an hour of my holiday, so really I would have been better off paying for a new one.
Martin
I then drilled a 0.5mm hole through the centre of the tapered wedge (Looks like the full size one adjusts the bearings by pulling that wedge up with a bolt) hooked a staple in and scratched a mark on the rod for the hole for the other leg of the staple, drilled this hole then pushed the staple in.
I grooved the plastic slightly to take the staple, with the dremmel, cut the staple legs short, and pushed it in finally and bent the leg over into the groove.
Whilst I had the dremmel out, I tizzled around the staple with a dental burr and inside the voids around the wedge to key the glue, then looked for the metal loaded epoxy, gave up and used a blob of araldite to cover all the staple and hopefully form a strong fillet.
The araldite is a bit too rubbery for my liking, also it never seems to stick to LGB plastic very well.
All in all, it used up over an hour of my holiday, so really I would have been better off paying for a new one.
Martin
KeithT
Hillwalking, chickens and - err - garden railways.
Neil Robinson said:
Neil
That was me. The repaired rod is merrily whirling on the Saxon. It seems stronger than the original. My thanks continue!
I thought at first that I could offer the other 'spare' that was kindly sent to me by another GSC member (whose forum name very ungraciously I haven't remembered) but is for a 2 coupled wheelset not 3.
DoctorM
Interests: Manifold
facade said:
I know by now you may have effected a repair, but there are a pair on eBay.de currently at 1 Euro, plus, of course, P&P at 14.90 Euros
http://www.ebay.de/itm/LGB-ERSATZTE...isenbahnen&hash=item2567120f88#ht_2514wt_1112
If they have anything else you want, they charge 1 Euro P&P for each addition item - still probably a viable purchase even if you only want the coupling rods. I have bought loads of bits from them - they are very easy to deal with, and if they make a mistake they will remedy it at at no cost to you (I speak from experience!)
Neil Robinson
Registered
They appear to have a set of Kroc rods on offer as well so Steve's offer ( post number 5 ) may be viable.DoctorM said: