LGB 17100 EPL Track Contact

LGB-Sid

LGB-Sid

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My intention was to use two of these and a EPL point motor with the extra 12070 supplemental switch , for a reversing loop, then add the magnet to the train so it's an automatic reversing loop. My question are these things waterproof ? is anybody using them outside ? somehow they don't look like they will last long when the weather gets to the circuit board inside
 

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I used two of these outside all year round for about 5 years before I went digital. They worked perfect all the time.
 
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I had about 20 of these mixed with the old 1700 on my railway and never had a weather related failure, only failures were if a Loco stalled on them and burnt the contacts which was extremely rare. There isn't really any circuitry in them just a pair of reed switches in opposite relation to each other...........
 
As has already been said, they do let water, creatures and dirt in and the quality of the materials used today, is not what it was before the Maerklin take over.

I have just lifted my line (after four years) for a rebuild and as part of my post-lift cleaning and servicing I have had to replace the terminals on four or so (newer ones), as the phillips screws had rusted up. Older versions with non phillips screws were fine! One was also suffering from etching away of the tracks on the PCB and that needed fixing with a jump wire.

I preferred the older 1700/17000 type, but today I buy the Piko version instead, which are the same in every respect, even price, but strike me as better quality. See the thread:

Thread
A tale of three reeds - Piko 35272

Yes creatures and dirt can still get in over time, but water is mostly kept out and away from the gubbins by the very positive clip on lid. Glendale stock these.

James
 
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A trick to keep them as good as new outdoors; is to remove the PCB. Using a candle drip the hot wax in the bottom of the holder and while the wax is still hot slide the PCB back in. Drip hot wax over the components on the board but not on the glass reed, Reassemble. My 17000's have been outside for fifteen years with no problems.
 
Railway42 said:
A trick to keep them as good as new outdoors; is to remove the PCB. Using a candle drip the hot wax in the bottom of the holder and while the wax is still hot slide the PCB back in. Drip hot wax over the components on the board but not on the glass reed, Reassemble. My 17000's have been outside for fifteen years with no problems.
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That is a sound idea! Also it is nowhere near as difficult as using insulating paint etc.

You mention 1700s and I have to say that apart from the odd failed and easily replaced reed, they have proved very durable indeed for me. It is the more modern 17100s that have been the issue and I think your idea would suit them very well.

All I need to find now is a solution to the issue of the modern phillips screws rusting! They also seem to be made out of a ferrous version of butter when compared to earlier my unrusted and highly durable straight slotted versions!

Thank you!

James
 
A good engineering supply house should be able to find you something to fit in stainless steel..
Contrary to popular belief.. Stainless steel will still rust.. Just not in your lifetime!
 
PhilP said:
A good engineering supply house should be able to find you something to fit in stainless steel..
Contrary to popular belief.. Stainless steel will still rust.. Just not in your lifetime!
Click to expand...

Well I am 56 next month, so 30 to 40 years will do me, although whether I will still be needing weatherproof screws at the age of 96, (should I get that far), is open to conjecture!

I think I know just such a place nearby. I was directed there by my garage to source screws to replace the far too short ones holding the bike rack onto my car. The ones it had been fitted with by a well known car accessory and parts retailer (no names mentioned), were holding on by thier metaphorical fingernails!

The engineering supplier could not have been more helpful and were clearly interested in getting me the right part to solve my issue, unlike the retailer who were not remotely interested in addressing a potentially catastrophic outcome of the poor equipment supplied and fitted.

Thank you. Great idea!

James
 
Thanks for all the reply's somehow my previous answers ended up on the wrong thread o_O it's probably just me as I have never built a railway outside it's just when you look at some of these bits that are designed for indoor / outdoor use you wonder what sort of outdoors the designer has ever seen :)
 
LGB-Sid said:
Thanks for all the reply's somehow my previous answers ended up on the wrong thread o_O it's probably just me as I have never built a railway outside it's just when you look at some of these bits that are designed for indoor / outdoor use you wonder what sort of outdoors the designer has ever seen :)
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Well said!

Before I moved to Warwick I mostly had temporary lines, that lived for a week or so, before being packed away. The equipment liked that sort of use, but what began to happen to some of it once it went down permanently was quite staggering!

The tenacity of little creatures to get into the most unlikely places, and bring loads of crud in with them was one thing, but why LGB insisit on using seemingly soft ferrous screws and terminals still amazes me!

James
 
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Need to order some wire for these as well as the EPL Motor and supplemental switch I assume some thing like Thinwall 0.5mm sq Autmotive loom cable would be about the right size to fit these ? Tested the setup inside using bell wire :lipssealed: just to see if it all worked, now it's time to install it outside once I have some wire for the circuits.
 
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