Iron on on film for etching PCB's, nameplates etc

[tramcar trev]

I came across this in Jaycar for AU$35/5 sheets so buying direct from the UK is cheaper. My question is however has anyone tried it for fine detail and if so what were the results like, outstanding, good, mediocre, a waste of time....

I'm geared up with a load of photosensitve film etc. but this if its any good eliminates all that carry on and you can go straight from a cheap laser printer to the etch tank.... laser printers are so cheap these days you throw them away when the toner runs out as the toner cartridges are more expensive than the printer....

see: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Press-n-Peel-Blue-PCB-Transfer-Film-FIVE-sheet-pack-/121294647500?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Components_Supplies_ET&hash=item1c3db970cc&_uhb=1

 

[maxi-model]

Interesting product Trev. Just one concern, as it is a heat transfer type product (iron-on) what fuser temperature range will it tolerate when fixing the printed/copied design onto it when using a dry toner process laser printer/photocopier ?

I remember when selling copiers and laser printer systems (for 20 years) that this was always an isssue with this sort of "heat transfer" specialist feedstock. Yes, it has a backing sheet to protect the material's surface when doing this but will you still end up with a "fuser wrap" or the backing sheet peeling off as the fusing process occurs, or even gunk up the fuser rollers ?

Can it be used with a modern (and multifunction print/copy/scan) ink jet printers instead ? Or is this what the seller means by a copier ?

Max.

 

[tramcar trev]

I had similar concerns. You have to use a laser or photocopier. I have a Brother Laser so its going to be more complex for me but I found a good laser printer for AU$25.... anyway these are the instructions;
Product Information

Sale is for 10sheets. Press-n-Peel Blue Transfer Film - print PCB image on a laser printer and transfer it to PCB. Sold by letter size (8.5 x 11”) sheets.
Product Information
dipmicro Code DE2706
Click for more lot sizes
Lot Size 10 sheets
Manufacturer Techniks
Manufacturer P/N PNPB
Stock Type New from manufacturer
Restockable? Yes, we can get more. ASK
Shipping Weight 0.18kg / 6.35oz

Technical Summary
Packaging bulk
This paper cannot be used with INKJET printers!
If you intend to use BROTHER printers, keep in mind that Brother toners have higher melting temperature than other toners. It may be difficult to transfer image made by BROTHER printer. I was able to make a transfer using BROTHER printer, but only by hand and iron pressing for 1-2 minutes. GBC laminator did not transfer even smallest piece of image made by BROTHER printer. If you have BROTHER, first experiment several times or get different laser printer, there are very inexpensive models out there.
PnP Blue produces high quality prototype PCB resist layouts making your design ready to etch. PnP Blue is a Mylar (Polyester) backed material in which several layers of release agents and resist coatings are applied. An image is printed or photocopied onto this film, using a laser printer or photocopier (dry toner based), and subsequently ironed or pressed onto a cleaned copper clad board. The image area applied to the film is subsequently transferred to the copper board, along with the high quality resist (blue). The film is removed and resulting board is ready to etch in ferric chloride.
How to

Photocopy or Laser Print circuit image onto the dull side (emulsion) of Press-n-Peel Image Transfer Film.
Prepare: Clothes Iron, Steel Wool #00 (or SOS/Brillo with all the soap washed out), Packaging Tape,Photocopy or Laser Printed Circuit Image, & Directions
Prepare Press-N-peel Press-N-peel
Cut Press-n-Peel, leaving a 1/4" border around the circuit image. Cut board to size. Clean copper board with steel wool, S.O.S. or Brillo pads. Rinse cleaned board with soap and water. Be sure to remove all soap residue. Dry thoroughly with lint-free cloth. Be sure to scrape any burrs that appear on the edge of the board that may have resulted from the cutting/shearing process. Burrs tend to keep the iron from making solid contact with the Press-n-Peel Film
Clean copper board Cut Press-N-peel
Place Press-n-Peel with image face down onto clean copper board. Iron the Press-n-Peel Film to the board a peice of plain paper between the iron and the film to reduce friction. Temperature setting on the iron is critical, and dependant upon your laser printer or photocopier. Suggested starting temperature is 275-325 degrees F. Iron setting is generally "polyester". Iron temperatures vary. Iron until board has completely and fully reached the temperature of the iron. Time varies with the size and thickness of the board. Generally this is 1.5 to 10 min. DO NOT USE THE STEAM SETTING!

 

[ntpntpntp]

I have used Press N Peel in the past, it worked ok with my old Samsung laser printer.

I made a few etched grilles for an N gauge project I was working on. Which reminds me, I must finish that project one day (started 7 years ago!)

I've also used the DIY method of simply laser printing on cheap glossy photo paper and then ironing onto the brass sheet. This worked quite well also.

The tricky bit for me was folding and ensuring accurate line-up for applying the resist to both sides. I would work with only small pieces of brass at a time (say 5cm square). I printed alignment crosses on the artwork which I could see through the folded paper using a light box to align before securing, then slipped the brass in between and surrounded with staples to prevent movement before ironing.

I remember I had to get my own travel-iron, I wasn't allowed access to SWMBO's !

 

[tramcar trev]

I had the problem using a Brother 4040CN laser printer and correct LASER decal paper.
The emulsion fused to one of the rollers.....Took a heck of a time to get the bits off the roller that I could access at the back of the machine.
[attachimg=1]

Brother lasers use much higher temperatures to fuse the toner to the paper, I also have one. Hey it does a super job if you just want a decent B&W printout and makes brilliant artwork for conventional photo etching but I had a long chat with it this morning and explained the situation and it has agreed to move aside for a new AU$75 Xerox colour laser that will do decals of high opacity as well as B&W at 1200 x 1200 compared with its 600 x 600......This printer is cheap but gets rave reviews;
http://www.officeworks.com.au/shop/officeworks/fuji-xerox-docuprint-cp105b-a4-colour-laser-printer-fxcp105b
toner looks sensibly priced as well; http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/3-x-Toner-Cartridges-for-Fuji-Xerox-DocuPrint-CP105b-CP205-CM205b-CM205f-CP205W-/281179075261?pt=AU_Computers_Printer_Accessories&hash=item41779432bd&_uhb=1

 

[tramcar trev]

I have used Press N Peel in the past, it worked ok with my old Samsung laser printer.


The tricky bit for me was folding and ensuring accurate line-up for applying the resist to both sides. I would work with only small pieces of brass at a time (say 5cm square). I printed alignment crosses on the artwork which I could see through the folded paper using a light box to align before securing, then slipped the brass in between and surrounded with staples to prevent movement before ironing.

I remember I had to get my own travel-iron, I wasn't allowed access to SWMBO's !

This was my next question. Currently I design double sided artwork such that if you fold it using a steel ruler on the fold line and then as you say make up a little envelope into which the brass can be slipped then exposed, developed & etched I get good results. I was not sure that you could see the alignment marks, if they can be seen via back lighting then I'll give this a go. for me it simplifies the etching process about 80%....
We have an old iron that would not work on steam that I was sposed to throw out; just one of the advantages of being a hoarder....

 

[tramcar trev]

The far east? Get one shipped on a Tea Clipper....

 

[tramcar trev]

Lools like that printer Trev is not avail in the UK as far as I can make out.
Google throws up mostly Far East dealers.

And they are discontinued here but I got the last one at Officeworks, ex display....WOW WHAT A RIPPER!!!!!! I ran off a few pictures and the results on plain paper are equal to those off the photo inkjet....' I am suitably impressed, best $59 I ever spent.... Wonder how long it will last, the Brother mono 2040 has to be at least 8 years old.

 

[Dtsteam]

The 2040 will probably last for ages but it is a small office printer - we've had 20,000 pages plus out of ours. Pages per minute is the order of the day with an office printer so fuse temperatures tend to be high. In other words don't try this on the office Ricoh !
Now, a cheapo colour laser is a really cool tool in my view. Cheapo means low duty cycle generally meaning slower and possibly not as hot. I paid £99 for an end of line Dell and only use it for hobby stuff. So far after three years we are still on the starter cartridges, so I won't cry too much when I have to spend £50 on a set. We had to print SWMBO's 600 page dissertation a couple of times, so I guess we're up to 2000 colour pages, which isn't bad.

 

[tramcar trev]

Reading the manual the Xerox has a capacity of 2,000 pages a month. I had a chance to run some clear film through it and the opacity of the colours is most impressive so I'm hoping clear decals will be far superior than those via the inkjet as far as ink opacity is concerned. When the PCB film arrives I'll give it a trial and see if its going to be better than the photographic process. I have no idea as to the fade resistance of the toner either so that will have to be assessed before I attempt outdoor signage. Yes I agree its a cool tool to have in your workshop...

 

[Dtsteam]

Reading the manual the Xerox has a capacity of 2,000 pages a month.

Low'n'slow then : just what we want - I'm presuming you didn't get any buckling of the clear film....

I have no idea as to the fade resistance of the toner either so that will have to be assessed before I attempt outdoor signage.

I've printed signage onto self adhesive white vinyl and its lasted at least three times as long as anything else. It still fades and no doubt a UV protector would help. I've opted to reprint and replace every two or three years as its was easy enough. The drop dead winner though is Gregh's method : print the image back to front on clear film, then paint over with the background colour. I tried this about about 6 years ago and the signs still look pretty good.

 

[tramcar trev]

Laser OHP film ran through faultlessly. Ah yes well Greg is very clever what he is doing is using the film as a UV protector and that should work.

The only failsafe method of making small custom exterior signage is to etch the signs in brass then fill with quality exterior grade enamel over etch primer and then with 1200grit wet and dry sand it until just the brass letters show, then a cuppla coats of acrylic clear over the top....I have some tram stop signs been sitting outside for over a year and they still look as new. Nothing is forever though and the red and white paint will have to be replaced. I was going to experiment with vitreous enamel applied cloisonné style, that would last till next century but the cost of the kit killed that idea....
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Jewellery-tools-Enamel-Starter-Kit-/160880997792?pt=UK_Crafts_JewelleryMaking_GL&hash=item25754135a0&_uhb=1