Improving running of plastic wheels in plastic axle guards.

Sarah, over here you can buy synthetic oil in a small bottle with a metal applicator syringe top from Amazon. Says it is for all models and I use it on LGB and metal steam engines.

The LGB frames are made of engineering plastic which is not brittle and which is designed for bearings. As was said, use a flat screwdriver to pry the wheel away from the bearing and pull it out or push it in.
 
Fred2179G said:
Sarah, over here you can buy synthetic oil in a small bottle with a metal applicator syringe top from Amazon. Says it is for all models and I use it on LGB and metal steam engines.
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You still need to use a plastic compatible oil - synthetic does not mean plastic safe.
 
Sarah;
As shown in that clear photograph of a wheel set (Which by-the-way looks like it drastically needs lubrication) there is space between the wheel and the side frame where the axle is exposed. If you simply put a drop of gear lube on it, you have done the job. You just need to do both ends of each axle.
If your rolling stock wheels and axles in any way resemble that picture; you have no need to pop the wheels out of their journals, risking breakage, with the spreading of of the side frames.
Thank you Korm, for providing the photograph.... might be high time for you to do some lubricating !!
Fred Mills
 
There is a Synthetic oil "Mixture", which should be avoided, but a "PURE Synthetic oil like Mobil 1, is declared "Plastic compatible"...
The research has been done with direct communication with Mobil Oil Labs, and reported a few years ago on various Model Railroad forums.
If in doubt, do your own DIRECT research with the oil product manufacturers, before passing on possibly false information...PLEASE
I checked out the "Lucas: gear lube product, here in Ottawa, and was given this information on their product.
Passing on false, un-proven advice/information is doing no-one a favour, least of all your own reputation.
Fred Mills

( PROVEN corrections to any suggestions made by Fred Mills, are highly desired, and greatly appreciated; if any statements made by Fred Mills, are proven false; Fred Mills wants them corrected as soon as possible. Thank you in advance)
 
Hopefully I have attached photographs of the wheels and axles of my carriages showing the way the wheel axles are secured to the vehicle.

It is different to that shown in the other picture. I'm still doubtful about removing these so I'm not going to touch them.

I'm afraid I can't explain why the pictures are so small.

Sarah Winfield
 

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Another factor to be taken into consideration, on the subject of "Lubrication"
Many "Plastics" may be used in the manufacture of our "Toys".
From observations by many people, the plastic called generally, "Styrene", or poly- Styrene, is the most common. LGB used to use other "Plastics", and blends of Styrene, in their products.
Generally, Styrene doesn't get along well over time, and sometimes at short notice with common petroleum products, and their blends. Often it is what is added to the "Oil" for various reasons, that causes conflict with "Plastic". Remember that automotive lubricants today are most often packaged in "Plastic" containers of some type. The type of plastic in these containers is specially blended to be used to contain petroleum products. Also, more and more automotive "Moving parts" which used to be made of some form of metal (Transmission parts for one) are being formed from plastic, so their lubricants must be compatible.

In working/modelling with plastic, we generally find ourselves using a general type of Styrene. The most common way of joining pieces of Styrene, is to use a liquid that "Melts" or welds the pieces together.
You can pay through the nose for all types of plastic "Glues" but most often they are basically a liquid called
"Lacquer Thinner" or there is also "MEC"...even Acetone can find use in this area.
Just lately, I have been rather successful in "Welding" together, broken Aristocraft, and Bachmann trucks (Bogies), along with some of the latest LGB products, and their associated parts. Allowing the welded breaks to "Cure" after several applications of the "Thinner", seems to contribute greatly to their repair. Originally LGB parts would not weld readily, but they must have changed their "Blend" of Styrene lately...the Chinese produced product was very much Styrene... from my limited experience.
Fred Mills
 
Sarah;
They turned out fine...we just have to click in the picture and it enlarges, they show your situation rather well.

It shows that you just have to put a drop of lubricant on the axels where they go through the "Bearing" rather simple... You don't need to remove the wheels at all.
As far as cleaning the wheel treads; just take the sharp end of a paring knife and gently scrape the "Crud" off the wheels...don't attempt to "Dig" it off...be gentle...then finish off with a paper towel dampened with alcohol (Don't waste good Whisky, use rubbing alcohol...!!)
Fr.Fred
 
Guys and Gals...
Please forgive me for seeming to dominate this thread...I'm just hoping to be of some assistance...I'm not an expert, nor am I claiming to be, but I have had the privilege of many years of sharing knowledge with others far more experienced, and wise than I. Hopefully, you may be able to pass on to others, anything of value, you find in my long winded "sermons"...that's why my friends call me...
Fr.Fred
 
Sarah Winfield said:
Hopefully I have attached photographs of the wheels and axles of my carriages showing the way the wheel axles are secured to the vehicle.

It is different to that shown in the other picture. I'm still doubtful about removing these so I'm not going to touch them.

I'm afraid I can't explain why the pictures are so small.

Sarah Winfield
Click to expand...

The wheels and their mounting are exactly the same on my coaches. When I can, I change my plastic wheelsets for metal - but that's my preference. As Fred says, if you don't need to remove them.....

On locos I use meths on a cotton bud to clean up the wheels. For lube I use the HobbyLube or E-zee stuff.
 
Sarah Winfield said:
I don't seem to be able to find a UK stockist who doesn't advertise it as not being available.

Some sellers when I search do offer alternatives.

Sarah Winfield
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Hm as you say looks to be unavailable now, shame as I use it all the time and a little goes a long long way. I would suggest asking either Glendale Junction or any other well respected LGB Dealer what alternative they recommend bearing in mind its use in LGB Plastic bearings.
 
A lot of sound advice on plastic safe lubricants in this thread - but, come on, who regularly lubes their rolling stock. I just run it, a lot, and have never worn any bearing.
Sometimes we can make a mountain out of a molehill.
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I bought some 4-wheel carriages the wheels of which didn't free-wheel without a bit of help. Since my locomotive and controller are on the low rated side I need to have my stock as free-wheeling as possible.

Sarah Winfield
 
I am pretty sure there is no axle lube in LGB from the factory. Maybe it is the right sort of plastic.
 
Sarah Winfield said:
I bought some 4-wheel carriages the wheels of which didn't free-wheel without a bit of help. Since my locomotive and controller are on the low rated side I need to have my stock as free-wheeling as possible.

Sarah Winfield
Click to expand...

In addition to cleanliness and lubrication of the axles, free running is helped by getting the swivelling axle box carriers to return to straight after running round curves.
 
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