Improving running of plastic wheels in plastic axle guards.

I'm awfully sorry, you are correct the axles are metal. Could I apply a small amount of Copper Grease or is that not to be recommended please?

Oh, and how do I remove the wheels and axles please?

Thanks,

Sarah Winfield
 
Sarah, you have plenty of recommendations. Copper Grease is not really one of them in my opinion. From this side of the pond, copper grease sounds like one of the metal-infused greases for antisieze capabilities, and extreme temps... just not appropriate.

Why not buy some hob-e-lube? Again, of all the things I have done, grease is not what I want in any wheel bearing, too thick, and will hold dirt and grit...

Greg
 
From my experience, and observations over 20 years..."Observations" of others' experiences and problems...the only "Oil" type lubricant that should be used in a "Plastic/metal" situation, such as axle journals; is a plastic compatible lubricant such as "Pure" Synthetic oil. Mobil 1, has been suggested as one example.
I found a "Lucas" gear lube that is about the same grade as our old favourite, LaBelle plastic compatible lubricant gear oil. The nice thing about the Lucas product was that a full quart of it cost only a few dollars more than the Labell product, and was in a container with a spout, that made pouring into a small applicator rather easy.
What Greg suggested is another example of good advice...do not use 3 and one oil, even though some so-called experts will tell anyone who will listen, a different story.
Don't worry about "playing" with the old "Prince of Darkness". I think this "Lucas" I mention is just the same name, but a different firm, besides we aren't talking about electrical wiring just now...are we...!!!..?
Fr.Fred
 
We have British cars here too in the US, and have had to order said parts:

Lucas_zps8e6b60d9.jpg
 
Greg Elmassian said:
Organic oils/jellys seem to be fine on our stuff, i.e. if you can put it on your skin or eat it, it seems all right, although Olive Oil will turn rancid after a while!
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I'm still going with olive oil until I see the plastic affected, as it's non toxic, safe for kids, and always in the kitchen. I haven't noticed any rancidness on the trains and it's been on there for a while. In such small amounts It just seems to wear off eventually and then I add a slight bit more. It seems better than coconut oil which is very affected by temperature.

-bbbb
 
It will indeed go rancid over time and gum up. Leave your olive oil out in the elements for a while. Will you drink it after it has heated up in a few hot days? It also does not handle cold weather well, you can convince yourself by putting it in a glass jar in your fridge.

Since you live in Idaho, you do indeed have temperature extremes.

I assume you are using extra virgin at least. :cool:

Greg
 
Greg Elmassian said:
Since you live in Idaho, you do indeed have temperature extremes.
I assume you are using extra virgin at least. :cool:
Greg
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I haven't been using it outside... yet. When I put it outside, it shouldn't be difficult to clean it off and use something more weather tolerant if I need to. But your warning has been noted. And yes, only using the best stuff.
-bbbb
 
Thank you, I am grateful for all your comments. I am however confused as to which product I should apply to the axles.

Before deciding which, I have to remove the wheels and axles to clean them. Is it just a matter of carefully spreading the axle boxes and easing the axle out, please?

Sarah Winfield
 
Sarah Winfield said:
Thank you, I am grateful for all your comments. I am however confused as to which product I should apply to the axles.

Before deciding which, I have to remove the wheels and axles to clean them. Is it just a matter of carefully spreading the axle boxes and easing the axle out, please?

Sarah Winfield
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With LGB Stock this is exactly the process, though it may be unless you have been using the wrong type of oil that you may need to clean the Axle Bearings with a soft dry cloth. Link to the LGB Axle Bearing Lube for you:-

https://www.onlytrains.com/model/trains/50019U.html

The advert really says it all. Should be obtainable from any LGB Dealer.
 
I don't seem to be able to find a UK stockist who doesn't advertise it as not being available.

Some sellers when I search do offer alternatives.

Sarah Winfield
 
Sarah Winfield said:
I don't seem to be able to find a UK stockist who doesn't advertise it as not being available.

Some sellers when I search do offer alternatives.

Sarah Winfield
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Try Bachmann E-z Lube but go for the light gear oil. If the axle bearings look clean to the eye (you can slide them a little, one way then the other) then just a little drop on each axle will do fine without having to remove anything.

Just avoid motor/engineering oils and the dreaded 3-in-1, but modelling specific oils will be OK
 
I seem to have got my thoughts completely wrong.

The passenger vehicles to which I am trying to improve the running of are LGB yellow with grey roof 4 wheel coaches. I thought the end of the axle went into the axle box whereas the axle is through a hole in the wheel housing and the end of the axle pokes though the wheel housing (hope that makes sense).

I'm fearful of trying to remove the axle by prising the wheel housing apart so I think I'm going to leave well alone and clean up the gunge the best I can.

My apologies.

Sarah Winfield
 
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Sarah Winfield said:
I see to have got my thoughts completely wrong.

The passenger vehicles to which I am trying to improve the running of are LGB yellow with grey roof 4 wheel coaches. I thought the end of the axle went into the axle box whereas the axle is through a hole in the wheel housing and the end of the axle pokes though the wheel housing (hope that makes sense).

I'm fearful of trying to remove the axle by prising the wheel housing apart so I think I'm going to leave well alone and clean up the gunge the best I can.

My apologies.

Sarah Winfield
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Sarah, I'm not big into to LGB but I have just looked at one of my 4 wheel coaches.
If you shove the axle firmly to one side, and then press the mounting away (on the side that you have slid the axle away from) be ready to the lift the wheel/axle up when you've got the clearance.

Finger or flat bladed screwdriver to press the mounting away will suffice - the plastic is more flexible than it feels!
 
Interesting comment about early LGB Axles in this thread.

The earliest LGB axles in the late 60s through to the mid 70s had massive exposed ferrous metal centres with very coarse scale wheels pressed on the ends. These were then replaced with the modern plastic sleeve on small metal axle type, original still with coarse flanges but some time around 1979/80 these became finer.

I acquired some Mighty Casey box skips some years ago, which appeared to have been bootlegged from LGB and these had one piece plastic wheel and axle mouldings, but I have never seen them anywhere else.

James
 
If any member remembers early Triang TT, they will recall the axle on wagon chassis and carriage bogies went through a hole in the chassis or bogie and then through the wheel housing which was in two halves. Well on my LGB carriages the axle and wheels are not dissimilar.

The steel axle is pushed through a hollow housing between the two plastic wheels.

With the Triang arrangement it was possible to push the steel axle though the wheels and bogies or chassis and release the wheels and axles. I can't see how I can do that on my LGB carraiges without considerable dismantling. So, I've cleaned the axles and improved the running as best I am able.

In the meantime I have set up a 12' oval on my patio but the sea mist has descended and it is now quite cool. If the weather improves later hopefully I might have a locomotive running. Despite £96 million pounds on a new computer our weather continues to dumbfound the Met office.

Sarah Winfield
 
Sarah Winfield said:
If any member remembers early Triang TT, they will recall the axle on wagon chassis and carriage bogies went through a hole in the chassis or bogie and then through the wheel housing which was in two halves. Well on my LGB carriages the axle and wheels are not dissimilar.

The steel axle is pushed through a hollow housing between the two plastic wheels.

With the Triang arrangement it was possible to push the steel axle though the wheels and bogies or chassis and release the wheels and axles. I can't see how I can do that on my LGB carraiges without considerable dismantling. So, I've cleaned the axles and improved the running as best I am able.

In the meantime I have set up a 12' oval on my patio but the sea mist has descended and it is now quite cool. If the weather improves later hopefully I might have a locomotive running. Despite £96 million pounds on a new computer our weather continues to dumbfound the Met office.

Sarah Winfield
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Where sea and land and air meet, weather forecasting will always be prone to error. We are about half a mile inland and 170 feet above sea level and three miles north of Scarborough harbour. We can have brilliant sun while the harbour is under a thick sea fret. Half an hour later, it can be reverse. And then again in another half hour.
 
Wow Korm,

Not seen those before - thank you for posting. I stand corrected there!

Sarah,

Like your comnents on Tri-ang - their earlier 00 wheels were similar too, but when they changed to plastic chassis the wheels were removed by flexing the chassis sides.

Most LGB chassis have hidden single axle bogies swivelling behind dummy axle boxes.

The prongs that hold these can easily be flexed to allow the wheels release and replacement, without dismantling the chassis further.

On the more rigid skip chassis it is much harder to do, but still possible. On bogie stock the sides of the bogies that I have all screw in and can be removed to allow wheel access.

I am guessing that the way into Korm's Feldbahn wheel set is the same.

Not so up with more modern LGB but I guess the principles remain much the same.

If you want them out, you should be able to get them out!

James

As a PS: I removed some metal axles in the early 2000s that had been in some of my LGB since the early 80s and the metal axle had worn without visible erosion of the journals! I have seen similar wear on the dummy axle on an early crocodile loco too. That LGB plastic is tough stuff!
 
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Thanks James. There's an adage which says "if it's going to break it will". In my case there is no doubt.

I always wondered why my older brother (now unfortunately deceased) didn't kill me when we were young. He obtained a balsa, tissue and dope large aircraft from a neighbour. He hadn't had it 30 minutes when I managed to kneel on it. He also lost a front tooth as a result of me throwing a cricket stump at him for bowling me out!

I'm just one of life's losers most of which I have managed to bring on myself.

Sorry for the diversion away from the forum.

Sarah Winfield
 
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