HSB goes indoors
- Thread starter ColinK
- Start date
A bit more progress, but two steps forward and one step back.
If I decide to exhibit the layout, the height of the baseboards needs to be small so they can be stacked in my vehicle. Therefore I planned to make buildings, people etc removable. My plan was to glue a wire rod to each item and fix a bit of tube in the scenery. So the various items could be put in place and removed as necessary.
My first attempt was a pair of platform seats. The first one worked fine, the second one was a failure. Gluing the wire onto the seats was simple (but would be far better if I simply drilled a hole in the leg). I drilled a hole in the platform, put a drop of glue in the hole, then inserted the brass tube. Unfortunatly some of the glue got drawn up the brass tube and set inside it so the rod would not go in. I then tried drilling out the tube, but the drill broke in it.
I’m now wonderng if I really need to make many of the items removable.
If I decide to exhibit the layout, the height of the baseboards needs to be small so they can be stacked in my vehicle. Therefore I planned to make buildings, people etc removable. My plan was to glue a wire rod to each item and fix a bit of tube in the scenery. So the various items could be put in place and removed as necessary.
My first attempt was a pair of platform seats. The first one worked fine, the second one was a failure. Gluing the wire onto the seats was simple (but would be far better if I simply drilled a hole in the leg). I drilled a hole in the platform, put a drop of glue in the hole, then inserted the brass tube. Unfortunatly some of the glue got drawn up the brass tube and set inside it so the rod would not go in. I then tried drilling out the tube, but the drill broke in it.
I’m now wonderng if I really need to make many of the items removable.
Thanks PhilP, you are right. While it would have been helpful to make most things removable, its not worth the amount of extra work just to save a few inches in height for the odd occasion I take the layout out. I'll just make the buildings and delicate lamp posts removable.
I find being able to see advice and opinions from others a great benefit of gscalecentral.
I find being able to see advice and opinions from others a great benefit of gscalecentral.
No the way to do it is to glue a nail into the item pointy bit down having removed the head first. Then you have a point to make a mark for drilling on the layout. Having drilled the hole on the layout after a test fit you can remove the pointy bit from the nail (for safety) just leaving a stub for fitting.
I had an exhibition layout a long time back and it makes so much more sense to remove buildings and add ons if you can. Saves damage but as you said at the start also helps with space when moving about.
Many thanks Dunnyrail - I had been struggling to know where to mark the holes and that solves it brilliantly.
I’ve been giving a lot of thought today about what needs to be removable. Let me explain. The LGB layout has 8 baseboards, while the most I have had before is three. When exhibiting I really want to avoid the cost of hiring a van, so I’m hoping the LGB will fit in my Transit campervan. Of the 8 baseboards, four are of identical size, the other 4 are two matching pairs. To transport them the sensible options seem to be to bolt pairs of boards together face to face or to have some kind of rack, probably two boards side by side, with three above each. The smaller the overall vertical height the geater chance of getting them in my campervan or car. For example, if the boards are all 8 inches high, a stack of four is 32inches high, if the height is just 4 inches, then the total height of four is just 16 inches, which would go in easily. So its a case of balancing the number of bits to be removed with ease of fitting in the van.
There is a complication later on though. The frames in my railway room have been built to hold two layouts of identical size (identical baseboard size too). So when the LGB is finished, I’ll move it to the lower level on the railway room frames and then start on a replacement 00 layout; that will almost certainly need boards 8 inches high.
So for now I’ll be delighted to recieve any more advice and suggestions, but I will probably not fix anything in place that might need to be removable later.
There is a third transport option too, buy a small waterproof trailer!
I’ve been giving a lot of thought today about what needs to be removable. Let me explain. The LGB layout has 8 baseboards, while the most I have had before is three. When exhibiting I really want to avoid the cost of hiring a van, so I’m hoping the LGB will fit in my Transit campervan. Of the 8 baseboards, four are of identical size, the other 4 are two matching pairs. To transport them the sensible options seem to be to bolt pairs of boards together face to face or to have some kind of rack, probably two boards side by side, with three above each. The smaller the overall vertical height the geater chance of getting them in my campervan or car. For example, if the boards are all 8 inches high, a stack of four is 32inches high, if the height is just 4 inches, then the total height of four is just 16 inches, which would go in easily. So its a case of balancing the number of bits to be removed with ease of fitting in the van.
There is a complication later on though. The frames in my railway room have been built to hold two layouts of identical size (identical baseboard size too). So when the LGB is finished, I’ll move it to the lower level on the railway room frames and then start on a replacement 00 layout; that will almost certainly need boards 8 inches high.
So for now I’ll be delighted to recieve any more advice and suggestions, but I will probably not fix anything in place that might need to be removable later.
There is a third transport option too, buy a small waterproof trailer!
I was under the impression there was an undisputed law, that stated:
"The words 'trailer' and 'waterproof' are mutually exclusive, when used in the same sentence."
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I’m now working on the opposite end to the station. It has three sidings in different places, although I hadn’t fully decided what each one would be for.. In one corner I decided to have a loading bank where a narrow gauge industrial line ended on a loading bank so tippers could be emptied into my hopper waggons. I made the shell of the loading bank from foamboard (ignore the holes in the side), but it looked too big and out of proportion with the rest of the layout.
While I was at Arcadia Models at Shaw I noticed a coaling stage kit which I purchased as it would be good for the loco stabling area. More by good luck, it actually fitted in the loading bank space, so that track is now the loco spur. I actually cut the sides out of the part built loading dock to build up the coal stacking areas. Its not finished yet but looks OK to me.
While doing a DIY job in the house I found some wooden dowels used in assembling flat pack furniture. I had a brain wave I thought these would be good for making buildings removable.
While I was at Arcadia Models at Shaw I noticed a coaling stage kit which I purchased as it would be good for the loco stabling area. More by good luck, it actually fitted in the loading bank space, so that track is now the loco spur. I actually cut the sides out of the part built loading dock to build up the coal stacking areas. Its not finished yet but looks OK to me.
While doing a DIY job in the house I found some wooden dowels used in assembling flat pack furniture. I had a brain wave I thought these would be good for making buildings removable.
Good outbof the box thinking for removable scenic items. You can still use my Pin method to mark where they will go, but perhaps you have done that with this one?
On my Harz layout everything bar the track, grass and platforms removable as it also served as a British layout.
I used something like 2mm brass rod as pins in the bottom of everything but took photos of each board as I found the holes for figures were hard to find!
Lamp posts, signs, trees etc all boxed up and the boards slid into two storage boxes so it was easy to transport in a van and the two boxes were used to support it when setup too.
I used something like 2mm brass rod as pins in the bottom of everything but took photos of each board as I found the holes for figures were hard to find!
Lamp posts, signs, trees etc all boxed up and the boards slid into two storage boxes so it was easy to transport in a van and the two boxes were used to support it when setup too.
Another unplanned purchase during my last trip to Arcadia Models was a kit for a bike shelter. It should look nice next to the small station. In the box there were parts to make two bike racks and seven bikes, all quite fiddly. I’ve now made them all and painted the bikes and the older style rack. I don’t need the modern style rack so I’ve not painted it as I’m not sure what to do with it, perhaps use the roof if I need another small building. Here they are.
They are both on here, mostly in my Camberwick/ Harz thread.
T&C Light Railway & Süd Harz in G - G Scale Central
T&C Light Railway & Süd Harz in G - G Scale Central
I’m still struggling to get a matt finish on my coaling stage, indeed after two coats of matt varnish it still looks far too glossy.
Meanwhile I’ve started on the next building. It is some sort of railway workshop in low relief. I had planned to scratchbuild it, but I picked up a Piko brewery building kit (not the actual brewery) which looked like it would fit the space and be far quicker to build. By using the parts to make a low relief building it fits perfectly. Here it is so far...
Its 36” long but only 2” deep. I’ve used most of the kit parts, with just one wall panel left over which I can probably use for another low relief building. Making the roof is going to be a challenge.
Meanwhile I’ve started on the next building. It is some sort of railway workshop in low relief. I had planned to scratchbuild it, but I picked up a Piko brewery building kit (not the actual brewery) which looked like it would fit the space and be far quicker to build. By using the parts to make a low relief building it fits perfectly. Here it is so far...
Its 36” long but only 2” deep. I’ve used most of the kit parts, with just one wall panel left over which I can probably use for another low relief building. Making the roof is going to be a challenge.
Tonight I’ve added some strengthening sections out of sight, hopefully to make it more robust. As these are a part wood, part plastic, I used superglue to stick them. In the corners I’ve added a fillet by pouring some ‘Rocket Powder’ into the superglue. This works really well as it makes a sort of superglue Milliput that dries quickly.
After it had time to dry, I went to pick it up, it was stuck to the cutting mat on my workbench. Some of the glue had run through a small gap bonding the building to the mat. At least it will make me replace the well used cutting mat.
After it had time to dry, I went to pick it up, it was stuck to the cutting mat on my workbench. Some of the glue had run through a small gap bonding the building to the mat. At least it will make me replace the well used cutting mat.
Today I’ve finally sorted the finish on my coaling stage. After painting it with matt paints, it came out glossy. Weathering with powders and a matt fixative and it still was glossy. Spray with matt varnish, yup, still glossy. People recommended I try Testor’s Dullcote, I ordered a couple of small spray cans which have to come by courier, two light coats and at last it has a matt finish. It’s been very trying, but at last it looks OK. Next it needs the sub structures assembled and some coal added. I’ll be glad when its complete.
When you're ready to fill your coaling stage with "coal", I would highly recommend this both for value and appearance.....
Near-scale "coal" for bunkers and wagons.... - G Scale Central
Coal loads and gravel loads..... - G Scale Central
Jon.
Near-scale "coal" for bunkers and wagons.... - G Scale Central
Coal loads and gravel loads..... - G Scale Central
Jon.