How to: Fitting a Massoth XL to the Piko Kamel

[stockers]

This is the easiest decoder fit I have done - ideal for a beginer.
The loco comes with a leaflet showing screw locoations and a wiring pictogram.
I used the Massoth XL (3 amp) decode because its a lot cheaper than the Piko one and I have used and like Massoth decoders.
Anyway, here goes.
Turn loco upside down and remove 8 screws from the chassis. 4 in each cotner and 4 smaller screws approximately at each corner of the cab. Now you have to pull the end of the running board away from the loco - its stiff. Then move this Piece downwards and it comes away.

 

[stockers]

Do this at each end. Now the only fiddly bit. The body is held to the chassis with the screws already removed and by 8 plastic tags. 4 of these tags have been released by the removal of the running boards at each end. the other 4 are situated half way along each bonnet side. From underneath ease a small screwdrive between the red tag and the black chassis moulding and the tag comes free - do all 4 like this - they seem to stay free once you have eased them with the screwdriver. Cant show a picture - its too dark in there under the bogies but the leaflet does show thier position.
The whole top comes off - mind the lighting wires which connect between both pieces.

 

[stockers]

There are just seven wires connected to the small piko board - dsiconnect them and remove the board. Fit the new decoder (make sure it is clear of the cab for reassembly) to the floor of the loco. I drilled a small hole in the floor and used one screw supplied with the decoder.

Attach the seven wires as per the instructions with the decoder - it is dead easy to tell which wire is which. Red and blue go to the motor connections, the 2 black wires from the motor bogies go to the track feed connections and the black (again) lighting wire goes to the lighting + whilst the yellows go to front and raer lights connectors. You can see which end is which.

If you are not sure which is front - the longer bonnet is front - also, its the way the driver figure is looking.

 

[stockers]

The lights are LEDs and are already wired together with resistors in line included. Just remember to reduce the feed voltage on the chip before connecting the lights. To do this CV50 needs setting to 2 - which seems to be fine.

 

[stockers]

Now test before reassembly. I had to swap the motor feed wires to get mine going the right way - i.e. forwards when asked to go forwards - if you see what I mean!
When all OK. Clip the body back on, re-fit the end running boards and refit the 8 screws.
Thats it.

I set my loc to 14 speed steps to match everything else, numbered in 92 (last two digits of the locos running number) and picked the picture on my Navigator - the Kamel is not there yet so I choose an Austrian centrecab.

Simples

 

[whatlep]

Nice job Stockers. It is a big beggar, isn't it!

 

[mike]

great job allan....

 

[Willem WDLS]

Great, thanks! Will try it next weekend on my loco.
I thought fitting decoder meant soldering wires, but now I see it's done with some little screws. Even I should be capable of doing that!