Hinges

granddad gnome

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I would like information on the construction of a single track lifting bridge. I.E. Hinge design and fittings please.
 
I need to build a bridge too across footpath and at present have simple lift out section. My ideas about a hinge have been either a large gate hinge laid flat so that the smaller part is on theixed end and the large part on the bridge underside.
Or make my own hinge using a metal tube and rods inserted at each end. Another idea I just thought of is maybe using those that you find on the side of folding wallpaper paste tables?
 
I've never tried it, but I would be tempted to have the hinge pivots 1" or 2" above rail height - this would allow the rails to come together, with perhaps some sort of widened fishplate arrangement.

So the actual hinges could be fairly crude pivots on arms, or traditional hinges on blocks.

However, from what I remember of your railway, you'd want to be able to disguise them pretty neatly :nerd::nerd:
 
Look for 'Parliament Hinges'..

You need the pivot 'on-top' or above the track, really.. :nerd:
 
As mentioned, if you are going to lift your bridge, the fulcrum point needs to be at the highest point, if the highest point is just the tracks, then parliament hinges should be fine, however a lot of smaller scales that have hinged sections often have block well above track level with the hinge there, so as you open the hinge the two surfaces at the hinge side move (initially) horizontally away from each other.
 
Hinges from a cheep wooden pasting table are also good, called 'ladder hinges' , I believe. I have been using them for over 10 years with hardly any need to adjust the gap, I, also cut the rail at an angle of 45* in the direction of the train which helps to line up the track and avoid that nasty 'bump' as the wheels hit the out of line track.
I will look out some pics later.
Dave
 
Parliament hinges will work with a base board - I was imagining for G scale that maybe the bridge might be the bare metalwork - If G-gnome can give us a bit more of a clue, we can get our collective heads together >:)>:)
 
Sorry chaps, I seem to be having problems with posting pictures......will try again
Dave
 

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Thanks chaps. This is the gap I want to bridge and from what you all say I think this may be what I need to do. Thanks Guy'sno 2 _1.jpg
img239.jpg
 
As we have entered the 'flat' period of post-Christmas/New Year festivities, this thread is giving us a real lift.

David
 
Thanks chaps. This is the gap I want to bridge and from what you all say I think this may be what I need to do. Thanks Guy's
no 2 _1.jpg


img239.jpg
 
Thanks chaps. This is the gap I want to bridge and from what you all say I think this may be what I need to do. Thanks Guy'sView attachment 260480
View attachment 260481
I'd be tempted to try and mount the hinges a bit higher.

I'm assuming that you're planning to run a separate power feed to the bridge track - that way, all you have to worry about is the rail alignment :think::think:
 
You also need to arrange for the power to be cut, a good-distance either side of the bridge, when it is open..

Think a loco pushing your longest train towards the abyss! :eek::sweating:
 
You also need to arrange for the power to be cut, a good-distance either side of the bridge, when it is open..

Think a loco pushing your longest train towards the abyss! :eek::sweating:
Or some spring loaded barrier type affair which automatically raises when the bridge is lifted
 
I'd be tempted to try and mount the hinges a bit higher.

I'm assuming that you're planning to run a separate power feed to the bridge track - that way, all you have to worry about is the rail alignment :think:
Yes I am hoping to have a failsafe system with micro switches to safe guard the line when track is lifted I like tankermans method so I think I will work towards that
 
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