I HAVE JUST STARTED TO TRY OUT G GAUGE MODEL RAILWAY...AS A TEST I HAVE MADE A LAYOUT ON A 7FT X 42 " BOARD IN OUR SPARE ROOM.THE BOARD WILL HAVE A HALF CIRCLE OF TRACK [ not wide enough for full circle ] WITH A SHORT BRANCH LINE ..THIS LAYOUT IS TO LET THE CHILDREN NEXT DOOR SEE WHAT IT MAY LOOK LIKE OUT IN THE GARDEN IF I BUILD ONE. AS IT WILL BE A DIARAMA WE WILL HAVE A FIELD IN THE MIDDLE WITH ABOUT 15 TRACTORS AND OTHER FARM BITS TO MAKE IT LOOK LIKE A TRACTOR RALLY WITH THE G SCALE LOCOS RUNNING ROUND THE EDGES BACK AND FORTH..THE THING I NEED HELP WITH IS THE SIZES OR SCALES OF THE TRACTORS TO MAKE IT LOOK REALISTIC...NOT SURE WHAT MAKE AND MM SIZE TO GET AS I DONT WANT THE TRACTORS ETC TO LOOK TO SMALL OR TO LARGE WITH THE 45MM TRACK AND LOCOS.I HAVE BOUGHT A 32MM TRACTOR OFF EBAY [ NOT ARRIVED YET ] TO SEE WHAT IT WILL LOOK LIKE . ALSO WOULD LOVE TO KNOW WHERE THERE IS A G SCALE RALLY ETC THAT WE COULD GO TO..IN LINCOLNSHIRE AREA TO GET IDEAS..ANY HELP WOULD BE WELCOME,, ALAN
Help needed for scale to mm
- Thread starter bronco
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Forget all this racket about MM (as you put it). Stick to plain scales, i.e. ratio, as in 1:24 (or in other words one twentyforth full size).
Now, word of warning/advice. Although the track is 45mm gauge (that is the distance from inside to inside of the rails), the scales of the trains can, AND DO, vary.
Most of the garden railway stuff is 1:22.5 scale. If it is American main line, it is usually 1:29, and American narrow gauge is 1:20.3.
Now, in general, road/farm vehicles in 1:22.5 scale are rare. Best compromise is 1:24, a very common scale in 'toy' vehicles.
The big trap, is the words scale, and gauge. Often taken wrongly as meaning the same thing. Gauge, is strictly the width between the rails (45mm).
Google for more information, and beware of the term G Gauge, especially if using American brands. LGB products too, can be a bit loose on their interpretation of scale (even on the same model).
Now, word of warning/advice. Although the track is 45mm gauge (that is the distance from inside to inside of the rails), the scales of the trains can, AND DO, vary.
Most of the garden railway stuff is 1:22.5 scale. If it is American main line, it is usually 1:29, and American narrow gauge is 1:20.3.
Now, in general, road/farm vehicles in 1:22.5 scale are rare. Best compromise is 1:24, a very common scale in 'toy' vehicles.
The big trap, is the words scale, and gauge. Often taken wrongly as meaning the same thing. Gauge, is strictly the width between the rails (45mm).
Google for more information, and beware of the term G Gauge, especially if using American brands. LGB products too, can be a bit loose on their interpretation of scale (even on the same model).
As Gavin says the term "G Scale" is a bit of a misnomer. It basically can cover anything that can run on LGB's (and the myriad of compatible makes) code 332 rail/45 mm gauged track systems - so models anywhere from 1:13 - 1:32 are made to run on it and can be sold as "G Scale" by some vendors.
Even from the same manufacturer there will be variations in the scale of the models they sell to suit the subject matter to make it "look right" for use on the 45 mm gauge track systems mentioned. They also may not be scaled proportionately correctly either to overcome other considerations for operation. If you want advise on scale compatibility then it would be helpful to know what type of loco and stock you are thinking of buying or what you want to match it up to. What sort of railway subject matter are you interested in ?
There is also another fly in the ointment, that here in the UK at least, a quite predominant sector of the garden railway hobby is the 16 mm scale (1:19) - Those who indulge have locos and stock supplied by manufacturers that can mostly run on both 32 mm and 45 mm track gauge systems. You can see where the confusion can set in.
My understanding is that most "collectible" farm equipment models are built to either 1:16 and 1:32 scale - is that what you meant by "32 mm" when referring to the tractor you bought ?
Here is a Britains 1:32 scale item. It would be ideal for use with any, what is termed "Gauge 1" locos and stock (also 45 mm gauge but more likely to prototypically correct in their representation than most referred to as "G" scale), G1 is (mostly) 1:32. It would also be passable for use with makes like USA Trains, Aristocraft (which is what I did ) and some LGB models of US standard gauge prototypes, which are nominally 1:29. It would though look small when offered up against Piko's models of European standard gauge prototypes, which are scaled nominally at 1:26. You can see the problems.
Max
P.S. It's for sale as I moved away from that scale to 1:20.3 and 1:19. I now buy 1:18 and 1:16 vehicles to "match" into those scales.
Even from the same manufacturer there will be variations in the scale of the models they sell to suit the subject matter to make it "look right" for use on the 45 mm gauge track systems mentioned. They also may not be scaled proportionately correctly either to overcome other considerations for operation. If you want advise on scale compatibility then it would be helpful to know what type of loco and stock you are thinking of buying or what you want to match it up to. What sort of railway subject matter are you interested in ?
There is also another fly in the ointment, that here in the UK at least, a quite predominant sector of the garden railway hobby is the 16 mm scale (1:19) - Those who indulge have locos and stock supplied by manufacturers that can mostly run on both 32 mm and 45 mm track gauge systems. You can see where the confusion can set in.
My understanding is that most "collectible" farm equipment models are built to either 1:16 and 1:32 scale - is that what you meant by "32 mm" when referring to the tractor you bought ?
Here is a Britains 1:32 scale item. It would be ideal for use with any, what is termed "Gauge 1" locos and stock (also 45 mm gauge but more likely to prototypically correct in their representation than most referred to as "G" scale), G1 is (mostly) 1:32. It would also be passable for use with makes like USA Trains, Aristocraft (which is what I did ) and some LGB models of US standard gauge prototypes, which are nominally 1:29. It would though look small when offered up against Piko's models of European standard gauge prototypes, which are scaled nominally at 1:26. You can see the problems.
Max
P.S. It's for sale as I moved away from that scale to 1:20.3 and 1:19. I now buy 1:18 and 1:16 vehicles to "match" into those scales.
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Yes, I bought a 1:16 tractor, but it's a bit large, even for my 1:20.3 railway - so it sits by the side of the track out in the boondocks.
There is a range of modern earth moving equipment at 1:"25
There is a range of modern earth moving equipment at 1:"25
As stated above the Britains range is a little too small. Poundland might be worth a look - I've bought quite a few items from them which have just needed a little fettling to improve their appearance. I always carry a 1/24th scale figure with me to 'pose' alongside any potential purchases. Carboots, charity shops and jumble sales are other good sources.
Not addressed yet, but please notice when you see track advertised as 48" diameter, that measurement is to the CENTER of the track, so the actual track is another 1/2 track width wider at the edges, AND now you need clearance beyond that, i.e. the locomotives and cars can project past the ends of the ties.
This is a typical problem for people starting out. With a 42" wide base, you are pushing the envelope, as you are beyond the "tightness" that is a usual minimum. You need something more than 4 feet wide to run. Yes, some wiseaker will find the exceptional loco that can run on smaller curves, but this is an exception, and it requires you bend your own track, rather than buying stock sectional track.
If you are forced to 42", then the best operational solution would be a switching puzzle, but there will be no continuous round and round, which I think is a requirement for children.
Greg
This is a typical problem for people starting out. With a 42" wide base, you are pushing the envelope, as you are beyond the "tightness" that is a usual minimum. You need something more than 4 feet wide to run. Yes, some wiseaker will find the exceptional loco that can run on smaller curves, but this is an exception, and it requires you bend your own track, rather than buying stock sectional track.
If you are forced to 42", then the best operational solution would be a switching puzzle, but there will be no continuous round and round, which I think is a requirement for children.
Greg
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I use a phone app called Model Scaler to get a idea of scale. It converts measurements to any scale in either Imperial or metric from either Works well
I'll make a submission to Brussles that all toys and models shall be stamped with their certified true scale.
But not if we're still involved, I think 2235 maye be more accurate if our Government have anything to do with it!
Any minute now somebody will post that VERY useful side-by-side graphic of the various scales. It won't be me though - the originator will have to do it.
Going from the sublime to the Gor blimey, here is an Atlas H0 GP38[2] - that's 1/87th scale - standing in front of an Aristocraft 1/29th scale version -
Going from the sublime to the Gor blimey, here is an Atlas H0 GP38[2] - that's 1/87th scale - standing in front of an Aristocraft 1/29th scale version -
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Talking of makes of smaller-scale US dismals..................
I often see Atlas, Bachmann, and Ahearn (or is it Athearn?) as a maker..
How would you rate the different models for accuracy, and quality of build / running, please?
I am looking for GP38-2 in HO(OO) and N.
Thanks,
PhilP.
I often see Atlas, Bachmann, and Ahearn (or is it Athearn?) as a maker..
How would you rate the different models for accuracy, and quality of build / running, please?
I am looking for GP38-2 in HO(OO) and N.
Thanks,
PhilP.
Athearn and Atlas are about the same in quality and reliability - one of my Atlas RS3 loco has been running in a store-front window layout since 2004. Nobody makes US/Canadian outline in 00 scale, since the late thirties [failed] experiment in that scale bombed catastrophically in the USA.
When it gets down the such a small scale, you really DO have to be a rivet-counter to spot the differences that can get others running around with their hair afire. Takes all sorts, I guess.
N scale, I have no idea about, except that Bachmann have a good range of stuff, I'm told, and Kato of Japan, too. THEY have a stellar reputation.
When it gets down the such a small scale, you really DO have to be a rivet-counter to spot the differences that can get others running around with their hair afire. Takes all sorts, I guess.
N scale, I have no idea about, except that Bachmann have a good range of stuff, I'm told, and Kato of Japan, too. THEY have a stellar reputation.
Thanks tac..
I did not expect US outline in OO.
The N I have seen, seems to all be quite old moulds?? - The definition seems lacking in the detail moulded in. - This may be due to some of the items appearing to be diecast models??
I did not expect US outline in OO.
The N I have seen, seems to all be quite old moulds?? - The definition seems lacking in the detail moulded in. - This may be due to some of the items appearing to be diecast models??
Most N scale stuff for the last thirty or more years has been almost as good as H0 and 00 in terms of definition of detail. Certainly, here in UK, Graham Farish models are nothing less than astounding, and over there, ROCO and Fleischmann are equally impressive.
Detail moulded in?
Riiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiight.
In USA, Micro-trains and Walthers are pretty high on the list of good stuff...this here is your 'blobby' old GP39 by Walthers.....
And for steam fans - this is the Athearn n scale Big Boy -
Blobby old moulds, eh?
I think not, Sir.
Detail moulded in?
Riiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiight.
In USA, Micro-trains and Walthers are pretty high on the list of good stuff...this here is your 'blobby' old GP39 by Walthers.....
And for steam fans - this is the Athearn n scale Big Boy -
Blobby old moulds, eh?
I think not, Sir.
