Graphite paste with railclamps? Opinions please?

Zerogee

Clencher's Bogleman
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There have been several threads recently about cleaning rail ends for tracklaying, all very interesting, and there seems to be a general consensus about using a drop of graphite paste, copper slip or similar when using fishplates for rail joining.... but do folks here still use it when replacing the fishplates with clamps?
Specifically Massoth type clamps in my case, but comments on others (Hillman type, Splitjaw etc, and Aristo track screws) are equally welcome....
Does some paste still help with maintaining good continuity even when you're getting a tight physical connection via the clamp?

Jon.
 
I would not think it necessary, although it will still delay the ingress of damp (and oxygen) to mating surfaces..
The tiniest smear under the rail. and on the foot which sits in the clamp, perhaps? - But how would you get it under the screw-head?? :think:
Might also be worth a smear, if using insulated joiners, on the solder tags being used?? - However, as all these 'conductive grease / paste compounds have been shown not to conduct, I am less sure on this one! :nerd::nod::shake:
 
There have been several threads recently about cleaning rail ends for tracklaying, all very interesting, and there seems to be a general consensus about using a drop of graphite paste, copper slip or similar when using fishplates for rail joining.... but do folks here still use it when replacing the fishplates with clamps?
Specifically Massoth type clamps in my case, but comments on others (Hillman type, Splitjaw etc, and Aristo track screws) are equally welcome....
Does some paste still help with maintaining good continuity even when you're getting a tight physical connection via the clamp?

Jon.
Waste of time sir - IMHO.

I have come to a reasonably scientific conclusion based on observation - when I dismantled my factory made Aristo fishplate screwed joints prior to re-laying my track here in Norfolk, I found that the track ends were still shiny brass. So where you have something physically clamping the fishplate / joiner to the rail, you don't seem to need any gunge.

A sliding fishplate, by definition, will have an miniscule air gap allowing oxidation :nod::nod:

Rhino's Hypothesis :nerd::nerd:
 
I replaced all my rail joints except for a few yard sidings with Massoth rail clamps one & half years ago on my small indoor layout I started in 1993. As I posted at the time it transformed running with all my locos. Even locos such as 4 wheel ones which were poor runners especially over points now run very well. I did not use grease on clamps & do not think its necessary on indoor layouts..
 
Thanks chaps.... so general consensus so far seems to be that it's not really necessary, but there wouldn't be any harm in doing it anyway as a "belt and braces" solution....?

As you mentioned, PhilP, my thought had been to put just a smear of it into the grooved part of the clamp that sits over the rail foot, avoiding the side where the screws go it.

This is for outdoors, by the way. Indoors, as Doug says, I'd probably just use the clamps alone.

Jon.
 
I agree and do not. I would say certainly for Massoth Clamps probably not necessary but acceptable just a small smearbon the screw with a Cocktail Stock before fully tighteneingbup. Over Fishplate Hillmans I would certainly get a gopd clean area after pulling off the LGB Fishplates put Paste on then return the LGB Plates then the Hillmans. Hillman no fishplate ones I would do the same as with both there is not the scoring effect of a screw to give a good contact area. Well that os what I have been doung since 2000 anyway and it has worked perfectly for me.

Inside all the track had previously been in the Garden and had paste remains anyway and as it is predominantly LGB this is where I have used all the LGB Over Clamps.

Oh wtf does IHMO mean, people keep using it and I am clueless as to the meaning. Some may probably not know wtf but I will not go further on this one as it includes a bad boys word!
 
An indoor layout should fair much better, connectivity wise, than one outdoors. However, I am a proponent of soldering jumpers across all rail joints. As on my indoor "O" gauge layout, where I have two or three power feeds to different areas of the main line, I would also do the same thing with large scale track.

Of course you could solve any issues with connectivity by coming over to the dark side.....

duracell_c.jpg
 
...Oh wtf does IHMO mean, people keep using it and I am clueless as to the meaning. Some may probably not know wtf but I will not go further on this one as it includes a bad boys word!
In My Humble Opinion, sometimes reduced to IMO (In My Opinion)
 
An indoor layout should fair much better, connectivity wise, than one outdoors. However, I am a proponent of soldering jumpers across all rail joints. As on my indoor "O" gauge layout, where I have two or three power feeds to different areas of the main line, I would also do the same thing with large scale track.

Of course you could solve any issues with connectivity by coming over to the dark side.....

View attachment 238345
Do not take the bait!
 
It's also funny when some folks think LOL means "Lots of Love" rather than "Laugh Out Loud"..... makes for some very confusing message sign-offs......

Jon.
 
Do not take the bait!

Haha! Well, as I have both track and battery, DC and DCC, including "battery DCC", plus a little bit of Live Steam too, I think I have feet in all camps (that's a lot of feet....) - as far as I'm concerned no option is "better" than any other, they all have their place and there is room for all on here!

Jon.
 
Having a bit of a funny turn, are we Phil....?

Jon.

My Mum (bless!) thought it was 'Lots of love' initially...

PS> My comment was supposed to be bit like iron




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You know, irony!
:rofl::rofl::rofl:
 
I found the paste works really well outside to keep water out of gaps. As it freezes it causes things to push around at the joints making poor connections.
 
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