Good idea, bad idea

[MR SPOCK]

I use Peco and have for a number of years, like other have said because I used in in smaller scales previously. It's not a problem at ground level unless you're planning to walk on it in which case it's not as robust as the chunkier LGB profile. I only have Bachmann and Aristo stock and have never had any running problems. Peco G45 profile is code 250 not 200 as Mr Spock says. I know he has made some of his own trackwork so am not 100% sure what he's using, G1 maybe.

I've never had any electrical problems, just make sure the joiners are good and tight when fitted and use a bit of something to stop them corroding, graphite paste, copperslip or even vaseline to keep the moisture out. I tend to solder to a connector on the workbench and then fit them to the track, as I find it easier than trying to solder to track in situ.

Definately agree about the track joints as it can add a volt drop per section it the joint gets poor, a larger cross section of conductor will always work better so the small area of rail joints would be thing to consider solder is always the best as it basicly stops air getting in between to surfaces and causing added resistance either by oxidisation or corrosion,

I would not think there would be a long life for this track I use at ground level if it got trod on etc, its probably not robust enough, the other peco product is completely different.and is a lot more robust

What I use is Code 200 it says so on the box,that is in a peco box,labelled as Gauge #1, stating this to avoid any more confusion,
250 code is the narrow gauge, which is as you state labelled as G45, I have never used G45 code 250 so have no idea how good or bad it is, I believe some of the other rail types are code 270, It took me weeks of wasted time and effort to get what I wanted a railway that works, and dosnt need constant track cleaning, where I live the brass track I had went green in a week and was useless, this stuff goes almost rusty color, but I never clean it, just run a fancy track cleaner around when in use, I dont get any sparks, plated wheels are ok but the stuff wears off, I dont get any crud building up, and run everything off two small car batteries with a solar panel to charge them up, I started with narrow gauge but changed to 'standard' gauge just out of personal prefference not because of any other reason, so it followed I would use the track to suit,

 

[stevedenver]

wow green in a week

here in colorado, im working on over a decade and its just golden brown-must be that Cornish air

 

[MR SPOCK]

hAVE YOU ANY PICS OFTHESE WIRES YOU USE AS i THINK THIS WOULD BE A GOOD IDEA ON CABBOOSE AND COACH PICKUPS AS WELL

REGARDS pETE

 

[MR SPOCK]

Its normally foggy here when its not foggy its raining, and when the suns out its windy,why on earth I live here is a mystery.

 

[hagen]

Guys...
Remember there are two types of Peco track for gauge one.
The G45 and the #1 track.
The skates may short on the G45 switches, but the #1 track is either live frog or dead frog, so it can not possibly short the skate.
I use Peco #1 track on one of my branches (the biggest), and I will stick with Peco as it is excellent. Less cleaning, just put any loco on, skates or no skates and watch it go.
I have also started acquiring some G45 track as the points are alot cheaper, and (somewhat) compatible with a number of makes in the US that make code 250 swiches. MicroEngineering among others (I ordered a #6 switch just yesterday).

I will never go back to using anything else than Nickel Silver ever again.
Bit of a dilemma though, leave the skates for horrible brass track, or run as you like on Nickel Silver. Skate or no skate.... just trying to say I understand why LGB and USA uses skates.