Gluing plastic strip to LGB points

A

adeshers

More sense than money .. more stupidity than sense
Right you lot, I need your collective expertise yet again 8D .

I was taken by the posts regarding adding extra strips of either brass or plasticard to the check rails on points to 'assist' with avoiding derailments. So I cut suitably sized strips of 0.5mm strips of plasticard and attempted to glue using superglue. Eventually it stuck - but took several minutes rather than seconds.
"Ah", I thought, "I should roughen the surfaces first". After that didn't improve matters [and the first strip fell off :@] I tried using MekPac but this met with limited success &: .

So, other than using brass strip (that I don't have) what glue do you use to attach plastic to LGB sleeper plastic?????????????
 
Apologies for being negative but LGB plastic is notoriously difficult to glue. Some form of mechanical fastening is best, particularly in an application such as this which may be subject to various forces.
 
mine is using hot glue sticks....in case.....if not happy..just prise it off..mine it the same on my lgb point tht derailment my locos....
 
Superglue needs to be used thinly and sparingly for it to set rapidly - if you use too much it doesn't set. It prefers a smoother surface as it's not a "filler" type of glue. But anyway, I wouldn't recommend superglue outdoors as it is affected by moisture over time. Steven mentions hot-glue, that's worth a go. I'd probably try epoxy resin, having roughened the surfaces first.

Failing that, use a mechanical method as Neil suggests.

To be honest, I doubt that plasticard will last well as it's not particularly tough plastic and will be buffetted and ground by the wheel flanges. Brass strip would be a better idea.
 
if you require some brass shim cut for the job , to see if it sorts out your problem pm me regards Dave
 
suggest brass shim -bent to follow the guard-then tabs folded over the ends -
get a good close fit-without glue

then...a drop of super glue-or even a great contact cement

as noted LGB plastic while high quality -is really tough to glue
 
There are at least three different types of Super Glue.
They mainly differ in viscosity and can be used on most substances.
One little trick I use to get it to stick too tricky surfaces, is to breath on both parts and quickly join them together.
Also at work we use a sealer on top of any joints exposed to moisture/liquids. etc.

Anyway I made some shims from stainless sheet to pack out problem guard rails on LGB switches.
 
ROSS said:
Smokers? blow smoke over the glue...glue instantly goes hard.
Weird aint it?
Click to expand...

:laugh:
I have managed to super glue Melinex, a clear polyester insulation film.
It's very slippery and shiney and you have to hold together for a while.
 
Yes, if you look on Mike's Lazy Grange Bay 3 thread, there's a link to a firm in europe offering brass (I think) checkrails as a simple add on for 27 euros.

I've learnt my lesson :onphone: I said the problem wasn't fixable, and there is now a ready made solution. :thumbup::thumbup:
 
whizzo said:
if you require some brass shim cut for the job , to see if it sorts out your problem pm me regards Dave
Click to expand...
PM sent - thanks for the offer.

To everyone else thanks for the replies. I tried the hot-glue but failed miserably - what is it with me and adhesives, with my luck I'd choose the wrong glue to sniff :@ (is that still done or have our young folk moved on?)

I've seen the products available on the German sites and they are very tempting but 'belt tightening' is the order of the day so I'd like to try some homespun methods first.

One of my problems is the small wheels used on the bogies of my bodged transporter wagon [ http://www.gscalecentral.net/m115074 ] that seem to drop into the frog of two sets of my R1 points when shunting through them with the switch set for the curve. The flange of the wheel then hits the nose of the frog and lifts the wheel off the rail. :-
 
adeshers said:
The flange of the wheel then hits the nose of the frog and lifts the wheel off the rail. :-
Click to expand...
That's what a shim on the check rail prevents. The flange of the other wheel on the same axle is forced closer to its rail by the shim so that the flange near the frog nose is pulled away from the nose and into the flangeway.
 
Neil Robinson said:
adeshers said:
The flange of the wheel then hits the nose of the frog and lifts the wheel off the rail. :-
Click to expand...
That's what a shim on the check rail prevents. The flange of the other wheel on the same axle is forced closer to its rail by the shim so that the flange near the frog nose is pulled away from the nose and into the flangeway.
Click to expand...
Hence my interest in this modification Neil :bigsmile:

Now, once again the generosity of the Forum members has come to the fore and Dave (Whizzo) is sending me some brass shims to fit. Aint this Forum great :thumbup: :clap: :thumbup: :clap:
 
If someone has done this and it works, can they please post a photo, as my brain is failing to get exactly what is mean (and I suffer from the derailing problem too)
 
I have just use brass rod from a model shop. Approximately 1mm x 5mm. And it is simply bent around then check rail, mine grip the check rail tight enough so I have not felt the need to glue or screw them in any way. You can even fashion them a little longer to to increase the length of the check rail which was useful for me on some old LGB points. It's worth noting that the brass is not wild on being bent this far round on itself so care must be taken to ensure it doesn't snap!
574698b6e1e04fd2b26109337204988d.jpg

3dbc6ef5fe264d25aa06e918cdb2a83e.jpg


I hope that helps.
 
Had a look at the only R3 point I have on my railway. All my others are R1 and my track is R1/R2 on the curves.

I brought it 2nd hand, as I wanted to make a crossover with the 3 Way Point I'd brought from Ebay. The 3WP was an older version and R2/3 22.5 Deg and not R1 30 Deg like the current offering.

a5a97392d48042d5baf5b6d64fdac495.jpg


I noticed that the check rails are quite short compared to Jimmielx's pix, and only the same length as the frog. However I have not had any issues with this point. It is mainly used as a facing point, with trains taking the diverging curved road to cross over to gain the platform road at Sheringham. Thus the point lever is rarely used and is left set permanently in position. Sometimes I use it to run round trains, but I let the loco 'push' through the point in trailing mode.

Worth knowing though, that there is a simple mod to extend the check rail with a brass shim which I might consider one day....
 
Never had a problem until the Piko Kamel - nuff said.
 
Just to put this thread to bed - the perfectly cut lengths of brass arrived from Dave (Whizzo) and fitted them as per Jimmielx's post above and lo and behold they work a treat. Thanks again Dave. :thumbup:

The pic shows them in situ on the worst of my secondhand points.
300a79cee27f4834857e363560fcb769.jpg
 
Hi glad to have helped regards Dave
 
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