Jasper,Interesting photo. It seems as if the tram on the right hand side is closer to the photographer, but is it?
David, I have read through this thread again, and I understand the side-frames etc came from KW, but I cannot see which motor unit you ended up with, the Applegate or the Fosworks.First truck finished with the exception of the tray which I'll make and fit once its had a few test runs to check a few things.
MkII is under construction, the only real change from the original design is to tidy away cables and solder cable clips to the truck, basically a much tidier arrangement for the cabling.
The first tram has been fitted with Appletree traction motors, simply because I had the two motors on the bench.
The first open tram will be fitted with a pair of Fosworks traction motors because they are a smaller diameter and the open tram has a lower floor level.
I haven't yet worked out what the battery arrangement will be for the open tram.
One thing I have realised since fitting couplings to a tram and trailer, is that if the axle box springs are too light when coupling the tram has a tendency to lift the trailer enough that the couplings don't sit level until they've run over something less than smooth.
Tram is fitted with 0.5x4x6mm springs.
Trailer is fitted with 0.4x4x5mm springs.
That doesn't sound like much of a difference but it makes quite a bit of difference in running.
I have started drafting up a "how I did it" article for anyone who might want to do something similar to me, or use any part of what I've done.
Such a pity that small section brass U shape is so expensive, this is a dead ringer for some of that. Bit tricky to curve though, but annealing it would work.Well I finally pull the finger out and glued down the track template for the indoor tramway corner baseboard.
I obviously need to make 3 crossing units but the plan is to only use 1 switch blade for the whole track plan in the photo.
As the whole corner track plan needs to be scratch built, and because I might decide to infill the track to make a road way so that it looks like a tramway I won't be using any sleepers, they wouldn't serve any purpose once the roadway has been laid anyhow.
Unfortunately the original plan was to interlaced some plan track to build the track on this board so I don't have all the plain rail and chairs I'll need but at least I can now make a start, yippee.
I use a cutting disk in the angle grinder for the flangeways in special work. Before I had that I used a broken hacksaw blade, but that is a lot harder!Thankfully I have rollers which I normally use to roll 7mm scale boilers, that are perfectly capable of rolling code 200 rail, filing the rail for the crossings is a little different, the rail can be held in my bench vice rather than be clamped to a piece of scrap wood.
The biggest challenge I have is that I need the dinning table to lay out the template rather than laying thge turnout track plan out on the work bench, which is going to slow progress a wee bit because apparently the dinning table isn't there to only be another modelling work bench.
Such a pity that small section brass U shape is so expensive, this is a dead ringer for some of that. Bit tricky to curve though, but annealing it would work.
That's called a Barry Slip, they weren't common but their were quite a few around the uk, although I'm not aware of any in Scotland so a little difficult to justify for a Scottish distillery layout.Building your own track is certainly a worthwhile occupation when you have lots of points or near points (interlaced) required. You certainly save a great deal of wad a d get something that is not supplied commercially to boot. There was a time where it was not worthwhile to build plain track from scratch but I am not sure how the costs stack up now.
In any case looking at what Dave is doing on the kitchen table, I would have thought a good sized piece of Melamine would work for points being able to take it on and off the kitchen table with part built bits of track as ordered? I had a jig that I made when building 0 gauge track many moons ago that still lives in my loft for the day when I may get back into 0 gauge again, was on a length of chipboard that has seen many points built including 3 way and ‘nearly a slip NAS’. NAS was actually 2 interlaced points that I saw as a prototype at Chichester in my Selsey Light Railway book.
As you can see most of the routes from a slip are possible. But C-D is not without a triple shunt C-B, B-A, A-D.
View attachment 288941
Hm would need to dig the board out to see how I wired it but as it was all live frogs I think I wired it up as 2 conventional points with a changeover switch for each frog. It did mean that certain routes may have caused a short but never did in practice so I must have made additional isolations feeding the complete Barry Point from the centre and treating it as a single section. As the layout was not DCC this was not an issue.That's called a Barry Slip
That's called a Barry Slip, they weren't common but their were quite a few around the uk, although I'm not aware of any in Scotland so a little difficult to justify for a Scottish distillery layout.
From memory, if using track power the best way I could think of wiring a Barry Slip was the same as a double slip.
I have these from days gone by.Hm would need to dig the board out to see how I wired it but as it was all live frogs I think I wired it up as 2 conventional points with a changeover switch for each frog. It did mean that certain routes may have caused a short but never did in practice so I must have made additional isolations feeding the complete Barry Point from the centre and treating it as a single section. As the layout was not DCC this was not an issue.
I have a 150w digital temperature controlled soldering station, not the cheapest bit of kit on my bench but worth the money, I haven't found anything I can't solder yet and that includes white metal.I've found a mini blow torch to be the perfect tool for tinning the rails and brass strip I've used for my points. I then sweat them together with a 100w soldering iron, as this gives more control. Some mini mole grips are perfect to hold the rail in position without damaging it.