French Van scratch built body for Bachmann Bobber Chassis

[dunnyrail]

Some time back, last year I think I bought a Bachman Bobber Caboose from A member of the Forum. It had been revised somewhat and much to my surprise had White Metal Fittings and Lighting installed. These were all removed except for those on the end balconies with the prospect of making another of my 2 previously built French Opens (the build described many moons ago). However in the last few days I have been watching a DVD of the Eritrea Railways and decided that I rather liked the Vans with a Brakemans Capoola at one end. They also had V topped Roofs which are very easy to do when Scratch Building. So I delved into my French Books for some Pictures and hopefully a Drawing of something similar as this was to be another of those vehicles that ended up in Germany after being stolen from the French Metre Gauge Railways during WW2. In my world many did not return as many of the lines were trashed during the conflict. Some finding their way to the Selktalbahn.

Some pictures of what I intend to create.


The starting place of the Chassis defined all the measurements so the Van will be very much freelance but in the style of. Here is the Donor Chassis with some of the 30 Thou Plasticard that is being used for the sides and showing one of the End Balconies has been cut off after much careful work with a Razor Saw. Note that I have left the Coupling Fittings in place for LGB ones.


Having cut the sides to height and length (9cm x 21.3cm) the next thing to do was to scribe the sides for Planking. As I intend to have the Air Vents all up the top third if the body will not be scribed. To get planking accurate paralell is a pretty simple process (learnt many moons ago from the Railway Modeller). Count the number of planks in this case 13 plus a smaller bottom one. Then use the ruler at a mark to mark where they will go. The Picture below shows what I did using 5mm points (on a larger or lesser amount of Planks the 10mm mark is used) on the ruler placed on the side at an angle to get the requisite number of planks. The odd narrow one was measured at 3mm to get a norrower plank.

Having scribed the planks I then rough over the plasticard with some roughish emery cloth, this will remove any ridges but also give a Wood Effect. After that I then afaing loosly scribe the planks to get back any lost scribe lines.

Finally having created two sides they were glued to the wagon base using the inside ridge to hold them in place, a couple up inside supports have also been added to ensure that any future hand holding does not deflect the insides. The much clamped process as of just now having an overnight dry off to ensure good bonding.

 

[ebay mike]

I like. I have four of these cabooses I was going to sell. Now you've got me thinking.

 

[dunnyrail]

I attacked the two ends later today and they have been fitted. Scribed the complete end except for the top triangle which is supposed to be metal. To find the centre of any object rather than measuring and getting it wrong I use a standard method. Find a centre measurement that can have an equal amount either side. On this one I chose the 10cm marker then ensured that the amount either side was the same bingo center is found and marked. Before fitting a door opening was scribed on the Balcony end, you should just be able to make outbthe scribings. Picture with the ends in placed and clamoed waiting for the glug to dry.

 

[trammayo]

I attacked the two ends later today and they have been fitted. Scribed the complete end except for the top triangle which is supposed to be metal. To find the centre of any object rather than measuring and getting it wrong I use a standard method. Find a centre measurement that can have an equal amount either side. On this one I chose the 10cm marker then ensured that the amount either side was the same bingo center is found and marked. Before fitting a door opening was scribed on the Balcony end, you should just be able to make outbthe scribings. Picture with the ends in placed and clamoed waiting for the glug to dry.
View attachment 245653

Not quite sure I know what you mean about your way of finding the centre Jon. I presume you mean finding the centre of the apex when you say the 10cm marker? What relevance has the 10cm?
Me, I just measure the width (top and bottom) and divide by two, draw a pencil line, then just check that both side of the line are equal.

 

[dunnyrail]

Not quite sure I know what you mean about your way of finding the centre Jon. I presume you mean finding the centre of the apex when you say the 10cm marker? What relevance has the 10cm?
Me, I just measure the width (top and bottom) and divide by two, draw a pencil line, then just check that both side of the line are equal.

None I just used it as the centre then wiggle the ruler either way till it is dead centre with equal mm either side. I find this works much better for me in finding that centre point.

 

[G-force1]

None I just used it as the centre then wiggle the ruler either way till it is dead centre with equal mm either side. I find this works much better for me in finding that centre point.

A pair of dividers or compass will do it easiest as the setting will be the same for both (or more) panels.

Jon in the second pic there is something on the outer roof corner which doesn't seem to show in the other pic, any idea what it is? I thought maybe something to throw rainwater off, but then it should be on all corners.

 

[dunnyrail]

A pair of dividers or compass will do it easiest as the setting will be the same for both (or more) panels.

Jon in the second pic there is something on the outer roof corner which doesn't seem to show in the other pic, any idea what it is? I thought maybe something to throw rainwater off, but then it should be on all corners.

I know all about dividers but my system works for me with less faffing about.

Poor image I know, I think it is a knock that has disloged the Roof Covering and a bit of the roof.

 

[Capt. Jack]

Following along. Looks great..

 

[dunnyrail]

I like. I have four of these cabooses I was going to sell. Now you've got me thinking.

Here is a Picture of my 2 Opens both using Backmann Bobber Caboose Chassis and scratch bodies for some further inspiration Mike.

 

[Sean.]

I found that the caboose didn't like some of my track ( wheels too rigid )

I found that if you loosen the screws holding the metal straps and adding a screw in the middle ( wheel are attached to these ) giving the wheels wiggle room , it tracked better.

 

[dunnyrail]

A fair bit more work carried out yesterday. But first a couple of very disrespactable prototypes in Eritrea.

The Solebar after having cut off a set of steps at one end left a gaping great gap so this has been filled with odd bits of 30 thou Plasticard to glue the extended Solebar which was cut from 10 thou. Also at this time I attended to the Brakes, these were sat some mm off the wheels which has always offended me. So I cut them of and a couple of pieces of 30 thou added behind the solebar gave a surface to mount them back on so that if working they would now touch the wheels. This is a very free rolling chassis and perhaps I should have made them work. The other ends brakes have been lost at some stage so a couple of new ones will have to be made up. Oh also the Bachmann Metal Wheels that it sits on were also modified with nylon washers to stop the side to side slop as is my standard practice. Perhaps that could also be one of the issues with Seans Bobbers. Though I may try his suggestion.



The brakemans Capula has also been added, basically it is just an end of scribed plasticard similar to how I made up the sides and ends. Blocked in place with sundry bits of Plasticard and a Brake Wheel constructed with a hole to Operate it with. The brake handle is just a bit of plasticard held in place with a small brass screw drilled into the White Metal up-stand. The roof when added will extend over this and the full end as on the prototype. I then added the varying Steelwork at the ends and sides also adding the door and fake door gliders with wheels cut from plasticard using a Hole Punch. This work except for the roof pretty well completes the main build so it was on with Rivets. In the past I have used Pins to represent these, in fact this is what I did on the two opens seen earlier. However I decided on a different approach with the van and have been adding cosmetic Nuts. Lots of em. I was going to add rivets cut from small section circled plasticard but it has gone brittle over the years so I have used square section microstrip for the nut heads. You can see them in white on the next two pictures together with the metal work made from L and U section. Once sprayed up and painted Black as will be all the ironwork they should look just fine.

 

[Rhinochugger]

Are you sure there's not a rivet missing, Jon

 

[Riograndad]

In the first post Jon you say what you are trying to create,I think you have created it,cracking build and another bobber bash,like it!!,one thing,where did you get the rivet details from?I have been using Cambrian items but nearly used them all,new batch needed and yours may be an alternative.

 

[Rhinochugger]

In the first post Jon you say what you are trying to create,I think you have created it,cracking build and another bobber bash,like it!!,one thing,where did you get the rivet details from?I have been using Cambrian items but nearly used them all,new batch needed and yours may be an alternative.

Cambrian are still available - the range has split, and the basic plastic detailing items are still under the Cambrian label.

The other items are now being traded by the original couple under the name Dean Goods

I bought some Cambrian rivets at Peterborough last May

 

[Riograndad]

Thanks for the info Ian,mine also from Glendale,2nd hand box,a few missing from one sprue and a pound a bag but i must get some more soon,about 20 bolt heads left

 

[dunnyrail]

In the first post Jon you say what you are trying to create,I think you have created it,cracking build and another bobber bash,like it!!,one thing,where did you get the rivet details from?I have been using Cambrian items but nearly used them all,new batch needed and yours may be an alternative.

I am using cut micro strip, lots of cuts! With the Opens I used Pins drilled in super glued in place and cut off the other side, something that I would not have had to do if I used the same process on the Van. I also think the pins look better, but I am in a hurry.

 

[Rhinochugger]

I am using cut micro strip, lots of cuts! With the Opens I used Pins drilled in super glued in place and cut off the other side, something that I would not have had to do if I used the same process on the Van. I also think the pins look better, but I am in a hurry.

I have used track pins in wooden bodied kits, but plastic rivets (heads) with plastic bodies

A lot of track pins can add a fair bit of weight - just trying to remember where I found that out

 

[Riograndad]

I am using cut micro strip, lots of cuts! With the Opens I used Pins drilled in super glued in place and cut off the other side, something that I would not have had to do if I used the same process on the Van. I also think the pins look better, but I am in a hurry.

Thanks for the information Jon,I think lots of cuts is a slight understatement,should read lots and lots and lots of cuts!! but does look the part,never tried the pin method,if I use strip I normally use a square section for the impression of a coach bolt with a square flat sheet of styrene for the washer,as for putting on as many as you have on one car,,,I think I would end up on Vallium

 

[dunnyrail]

Thanks for the information Jon,I think lots of cuts is a slight understatement,should read lots and lots and lots of cuts!! but does look the part,never tried the pin method,if I use strip I normally use a square section for the impression of a coach bolt with a square flat sheet of styrene for the washer,as for putting on as many as you have on one car,,,I think I would end up on Vallium

That certainly sounds like masochism, though the washers would probably be easier to fit and give a target for the bolt head to sit on. Must try it sometime.

 

[dunnyrail]

Cambrian are still available - the range has split, and the basic plastic detailing items are still under the Cambrian label.

The other items are now being traded by the original couple under the name Dean Goods

I bought some Cambrian rivets at Peterborough last May

Just looked at the Cambrian Webb Site, wow what a lot of great stuff including much that has been searched for on here. Noticed a Cow Catcher for instance recently requested, Signals all 16mm of course but eminently suitable for our scale.

Cambrian 16mm Narrow Gauge Products