Fixing LGB track to the base.

Mr B.

Registered
How do you fix LGB track sections to a base of ply? I can see the 2 little holes in a couple of the sleepers, Do you pin it or enlarge the holes a screw it down.
Which method will give best results?
What do you do?

Mr B.
 
i put a screw through it
 
you really carnt beat a good...........:rolf::rolf:
 
Use round headed screws (I use self-tappers with a wafer thin head - as used in metal studding [dry wall systems]) and then paint them same colour as the sleepers. I thinks counter-sunk screws can distort the plastic if your a tad over enthusiastic with the screwdriver.
 
Learn from mistakes I have made.....Self tapping Screws are good....who could argue, but do not tighten them too much, especially with power driver, splits the sleepers...I have several. You do not need too many screws, since gravity is on your side and the track wants to stay where it is, every 12 to 18 inches is more than enough in my experience. I put the screws in the centre of the sleepers which works fine except where you are putting rack pieces in which screws can foul, then it is two screws, one on each sleeper on the outside of the rails.
 
Like most I screw mine down, however do not over tighten you may alter the gauge and split the sleeper
 
Many thanks for all your quick responses.
It seems as if the screwing down is the way to go for me.
Do any of you put an infill piece of wood (about 6.5mm square) in the hollow on underside of the sleepers?
What size screws? 3mm or 3.5?

Mr B
 
It doesn't hurt to leave the screw head a little bit slack - allow the sleeper a tad of movement.

In reality, G scale flanges accommodate some failry wild track variations - even the finer pofiled Fn3 will accept some pretty rickety track.

Given the likely movement from thermal expansion, it won't hurt if you allow the track to move a bit. Many people only fix it every 10 ft or so. :thumbup::thumbup:
 
The track on Hardyard was pinned and then ballasted using conventional methods....

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