Fixing LGB track to the base.
- Thread starter Mr B.
- Start date
i just nail some thin nails into the holes. they go about 5mm into the base (indoors)
allthough nailing and screwing give similar results and are done for all the same reasons, with nailing one can't screw up.
allthough nailing and screwing give similar results and are done for all the same reasons, with nailing one can't screw up.
Use round headed screws (I use self-tappers with a wafer thin head - as used in metal studding [dry wall systems]) and then paint them same colour as the sleepers. I thinks counter-sunk screws can distort the plastic if your a tad over enthusiastic with the screwdriver.
Learn from mistakes I have made.....Self tapping Screws are good....who could argue, but do not tighten them too much, especially with power driver, splits the sleepers...I have several. You do not need too many screws, since gravity is on your side and the track wants to stay where it is, every 12 to 18 inches is more than enough in my experience. I put the screws in the centre of the sleepers which works fine except where you are putting rack pieces in which screws can foul, then it is two screws, one on each sleeper on the outside of the rails.
Like most I screw mine down, however do not over tighten you may alter the gauge and split the sleeper
It doesn't hurt to leave the screw head a little bit slack - allow the sleeper a tad of movement.
In reality, G scale flanges accommodate some failry wild track variations - even the finer pofiled Fn3 will accept some pretty rickety track.
Given the likely movement from thermal expansion, it won't hurt if you allow the track to move a bit. Many people only fix it every 10 ft or so.
In reality, G scale flanges accommodate some failry wild track variations - even the finer pofiled Fn3 will accept some pretty rickety track.
Given the likely movement from thermal expansion, it won't hurt if you allow the track to move a bit. Many people only fix it every 10 ft or so.
