Fitting ML -S decoder into Schoema 2066

The spade connectors on the end of the interface cable are designed to push onto the pins of an LGB 55020/55021 decoder, or the equivalent Massoth L - I think the next size up of the mXion decoders (also called the "L"?) has the same pin set for connection without soldering.

I wouldn't feel up to tackling that soldering job either, though some on here would find it a doddle - the honourable Gizzy of this Parish is, I understand, pretty darn good at the fiddly soldering stuff....?

Jon.
 
Zerogee said:
The spade connectors on the end of the interface cable are designed to push onto the pins of an LGB 55020/55021 decoder, or the equivalent Massoth L - I think the next size up of the mXion decoders (also called the "L"?) has the same pin set for connection without soldering.

I wouldn't feel up to tackling that soldering job either, though some on here would find it a doddle - the honourable Gizzy of this Parish is, I understand, pretty darn good at the fiddly soldering stuff....?

Jon.
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Jon that would be good if the cable actually came with the spade connections you have to order them separately and fit them your self so its still a bit of a pain.

Edit that's odd the ones I got today from Muns are plain ended with no spade connecters ?????

Edit again lgb ones come with pins , Massoth with out.
 
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Anglian said:
Hi. Just to add a caveat to the 'smooth- running' Schoema in that there are no lights I bought the 6-pin interface cable as well, but there's no way I can solder even the bare ends to those tiny pads. I can solder, but not to that degree of precision. I am happy to see the engine running though.
Trevor
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Yes in the mele I had forgotten that it was not an LGB Decoder. Think if had been an LGB 55021 all would (should) have worked as it did when the US Diesel of similar vintage and Direct Decoder did when fitted upwith 55021’s.
 
Our dime (pictured) is 17.9 mm (C.T. Elektronik decoder pictured)
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Trev

Like many others I struggle with soldering on to the small pads that are provided with some decoders. The last time I needed to do this I contacted someone I know who models in 00 scale and is used to working with small items. He kindly agreed to do the necessary for me at the cost of a couple of beers. Well worth it IMO. Might be an avenue you could explore so you can enjoy the full functionality of the decoder you've got.
 
JimmyB said:
General circuit board soldering question - On boards that have holes (with brass rings) are you suppose to put the wire through the hole and solder, or just solder to the brass.
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Technically............. It's not 'brass'. :nerd::nerd: - Will be copper, tinned copper, or 'flashed' with gold (bet only a molecule or two thick these days)..

The choice is yours, but can depend on how 'thick' your wire is, compared to the size of the hole.

If you were fitting a wire-ended component (resistor, capacitor) you would put the wire through the hole, make the soldered joint, then trim the excess lead.

For wires:
If the wire is small enough to go through the hole, then that is what I do.
NOTE: This can be a little tricky if your soldering skills are not so good.
For larger wires, or for a wire carrying more current (battery/motor connections, say) I tend to tin the 'pad' (even if it is a hole), tin the end of the wire, lay the wire on the pad, and apply the side of the iron to the wire. - This melts BOTH 'parts of the joint together.

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Sorry about the quality... Not enough light for my old camera, and flash burns the whole image out, at this range..
 
JimmyB said:
General circuit board soldering question - On boards that have holes (with brass rings) are you suppose to put the wire through the hole and solder, or just solder to the brass.
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Yes, as Greg mentioned, you get a mechanically secure connection. PhilP's suggestions are also good.

If you need help and you are in Cambridge, then PM me and I'll do the soldering for you....
 
Hi all. Thanks for all the input. In Germany at the moment and heading for Greece. Thanks for the offer Ralph but I have already arranged with another member who has volunteered to do the soldering when I get back. As has been said before, the helpfulness of everyone is amazing.
I'll post some Greek railway pics later.
Trevor
 
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