Fitting ML -S decoder into Schoema 2066

Anglian

Anglian

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Hi all.
Next piece of DCC education please. I wish to fit a Modelling-Land S decoder into the above diesel. The leads are black, white, green and yellow. I believe that the black sticker with white dots indicate that it is ready for a simple plug-in.
Firstly any advice of taking the loco apart so I can attach the leads, secondly, which colour goes to which connection and then what other steps do I need to take to change over from analogue. I can see a variety of screws underneath, but I want to do things in the correct order.
All help gratefully accepted.
Trev
 
dunnyrail

dunnyrail

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Sounds like the colour code is somewhat different to LGB Standard. First you need to understand the Colour Code for the Chip. Sort out which are the Track Pickup ones. Then check the Pins on the Loco with a Volt Meter. Easiest way to find the Track Pickups is to Touch the pin with a Probe from the Meter then see if it makes a circuit to the Wheels. Do this on both sides till you understand completely which pins are the two that go to the Wheels. The other two should be to the motor and if you touch both of them with the Meter you should get a Circuit via the Motor.

Now you know the Track ones you can couple them up, reverting the two is not an issue. The other two Pins will be the Motor. If you reverce them the Loco will go the wrong way, you can change this with a CV or just swop the two Pins wires out.

I recently did an oldish Loco where the Circuit Board had Pins for the Wires to plug onto, butbthe Pins had LGB Colour Coding that is different to that on your Chip. I was lucky as it was an LGB Chip (well 2 actually) with the same colour coding. Some of the newer Locomotives will have a place where an LGB Chip pushes into the Loco. This may be the case with your Shoema in which case you will need the Breakdown Diagram to understand where the small plugs on the Chip Wire plug into. A picture of the Board may help us guide you some more.
 
Zerogee

Zerogee

Clencher's Bogleman
25 Oct 2009
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Sounds like the colour code is somewhat different to LGB Standard. First you need to understand the Colour Code for the Chip. Sort out which are the Track Pickup ones. Then check the Pins on the Loco with a Volt Meter. Easiest way to find the Track Pickups is to Touch the pin with a Probe from the Meter then see if it makes a circuit to the Wheels. Do this on both sides till you understand completely which pins are the two that go to the Wheels. The other two should be to the motor and if you touch both of them with the Meter you should get a Circuit via the Motor.

Now you know the Track ones you can couple them up, reverting the two is not an issue. The other two Pins will be the Motor. If you reverce them the Loco will go the wrong way, you can change this with a CV or just swop the two Pins wires out.

I recently did an oldish Loco where the Circuit Board had Pins for the Wires to plug onto, butbthe Pins had LGB Colour Coding that is different to that on your Chip. I was lucky as it was an LGB Chip (well 2 actually) with the same colour coding. Some of the newer Locomotives will have a place where an LGB Chip pushes into the Loco. This may be the case with your Shoema in which case you will need the Breakdown Diagram to understand where the small plugs on the Chip Wire plug into. A picture of the Board may help us guide you some more.
I don't know for 100% certain, having not used one of these, but I would strongly suspect (99.99%) that the colour code is basically the standard LGB one with the exception of substituting a black wire for the LGB brown one.
The LGB standard is brown and white = track power, yellow and green = motor connections, so it would be logical to assume that the yellow, green and white wires correspond exactly, and you treat the black wire as the brown.
Given that mXion/Modell-Land seem to be going for total LGB compatibility with their decoder range (even to the point of producing specific decoders for things like the LGB track cleaning loco and the Wismar railbus), to do anything different would be frankly crazy and totally counter-productive.

Jon.
 
Ralphmp

Ralphmp

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I thought the LGB 2066 model number referred to the Wiesmarer Shienenbus railcar? Anyway, here's a link to the LGB database for Schoema diesel 22604 - it has further links to the user manual and the service parts diagram which may help you with the dismantling ==> 73a610c6e3798914c1256936003d150e02ec.html.
 
dunnyrail

dunnyrail

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T
I thought the LGB 2066 model number referred to the Wiesmarer Shienenbus railcar? Anyway, here's a link to the LGB database for Schoema diesel 22604 - it has further links to the user manual and the service parts diagram which may help you with the dismantling ==> 73a610c6e3798914c1256936003d150e02ec.html.
Think Trev may have meant 2060.
 
Ralphmp

Ralphmp

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Ahh, I see. In that case, this link is to the original instruction sheet - lgb-2060-user-guide.pdf


You need to scroll down to get the 2060 model and then scroll further to get the English "translation". Between this and the link I posted earlier hopefully you should get the detail on dismantling you're looking for.
 
Anglian

Anglian

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Thanks all.
Sorry for the wrong number - I should have written it down rather than committing it to m..... , I forget the word! No, seriously, thanks for the information which should be enough for the job. The number in question is 20600. I will keep you posted on progress.
Trevor
 
Anglian

Anglian

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Ok all. It's chicken time. Top off the Schoema. Do I just undo the two screws, find the connections and clip in or is this far too easy. All help appreciated. I want to avoid errors that advice can avoid. I just want to add a shunter to my operations as I enjoy that side of things.
Trevor
131054_f19734a5d5d5743650ea1c96c506fff8.jpg
 
dunnyrail

dunnyrail

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That would be one way but not the best. If you get into the Body you should find a Circuit Board which depending on the type / age it is there should (if you are lucky) be 4 pins to attach to. They will be colour coded with 2 letters, the colours are pretty obvious except for Ge which is Yellow. GN - green, Bn - brown and ws - White. This will the take care of the lighting as well. DO NOT FORGET TO SET THE LITTLE ‘DIP’ SWITCHES TO OFF, MOST IMPORTANT.

If you are still struggling do a pic of inside so that we can point things out more.
 
Anglian

Anglian

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Thanks Jon.
Will keep you up to date.
Trevor
 
John S

John S

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The following are offered for guidance...

Refer to this thread in general, and post#16 in particular............



131087_1005de03bffc332b9ba990f9e88fbfd0.png


131088_f9f9b04d7641ff9ed2ed3c93e698ed90.png



EDIT: Almost completed a Massoth Service Tool Template XML for this particular MD S Decoder.
131112_257fca8359684ae9f097ac7cccfc1507.png
 
Last edited:
Anglian

Anglian

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Many thanks Jon.
I will be working on it tonight. The amount of help and time spent offering help by members is terrific.
Best wishes,
Trevor
 
Anglian

Anglian

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Hi again.
Have found the four pins and trial-fitted the green lead. Do I fit the rest as per the given colour code and ignore the original connections, or do I need those for the lights? Also, could you please identify the previously mentioned dip switches. I know this may be basic but I'm sure you were all there once!
Trevor
131120_20c1d6ad5c02ba8df07d07161c875bc2.jpg
 
Zerogee

Zerogee

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25 Oct 2009
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Hi Trevor - one thing, you don't need the cover plate to be off the top of the gearbox! The four pins protrude through the cover plate, where the black 4-way plug fits - with the plug pulled off, simply push the four wire terminals onto the four pins, following the embossed letters on the gearbox moulding. Don't try to test the motor with the top plate off, as there is nothing holding it in place (it won't do any damage, but just won't run very well!).
The gearbox top plate also serves to hold the four connector pins in place, preventing them from moving around and possibly shorting against each other - which is something you DON'T want happening as this could possibly fry the decoder....

With those four wires plugged on to the pins, the motor block should run under DCC.

For the lights, and the DIP switches, you need to get access to the circuit board that is already installed in the loco - you might need to separate the body from the footplate assembly, then see what you've got; the board will be at the other end of the 4-way black ribbon cable that terminates in the big plug that you've just removed from the motor block.

Jon.
 
dunnyrail

dunnyrail

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Hi again.
Have found the four pins and trial-fitted the green lead. Do I fit the rest as per the given colour code and ignore the original connections, or do I need those for the lights? Also, could you please identify the previously mentioned dip switches. I know this may be basic but I'm sure you were all there once!
TrevorView attachment 255979
Erm No No No Trev. As Jon. Says the Motor Block will run but it will have no contact to the Circuit Board inside the Loco. As he also says and as I said the Circuit Board is inside the Loco and that is where the decoder should be fitted not to the Block on the Chassis as you are attempting. That 4 way Plug will need to be put back and left in place.

Not sure about the description of this either, a 2066 appears to be a Railcar more likely this Loco is a 2060 or one of the variants. This link will take you the the LGB Break Down, not sure it is the right variant but it will show you where the screws and circuit Board are that you must access.

 
dunnyrail

dunnyrail

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Further to my post I have found a Circuit Board that should be similar to what you will find inside of your Shoema.
131134_ab3fb57583ff00a80b68599e939c4e5b.jpeg

The Red Arrow is the 4 way Plug that you have already taken out and the arrows show where it leads to. The Dip Switches are the small Red ones where the black wire goes into the board.

The Green Arrow shows the 8 points that the Chip Plugs into, not that as this is a 2 Motored Loco there are 8 pins. Yours will have 4 Marked up as previously mentioned.

Do not forget the move the Dip Switches to Off.
 
PhilP

PhilP

G Scale, 7/8th's, Electronics
5 Jun 2013
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The empty socket (just above the DIP switches) is where the lead in (the other) John's post needs to go.. The other ends of the wires soldered to the pads on the decoder for lights etc. :nerd::)

PhilP.
 
Anglian

Anglian

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Thank you both. You can now see what you are dealing with! No, all is clear now. Hopefully the next time you hear from me will be when I am shunting away with the Schoema, (20600).
I'm sure you can't wait for me to start on the two clamshell Stainzes!!
Very best wishes,
Trevor
 
dunnyrail

dunnyrail

DOGS, Garden Railways, Steam Trains, Jive Dancing,
25 Oct 2009
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353
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St.Neots Cambridgeshire UK
Thank you both. You can now see what you are dealing with! No, all is clear now. Hopefully the next time you hear from me will be when I am shunting away with the Schoema, (20600).
I'm sure you can't wait for me to start on the two clamshell Stainzes!!
Very best wishes,
Trevor
Saints preserve us!
 
Anglian

Anglian

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I do believe that a good single malt is a better option!