Fitting ML -S decoder into Schoema 2066

Anglian said:
Thank you both. You can now see what you are dealing with! No, all is clear now. Hopefully the next time you hear from me will be when I am shunting away with the Schoema, (20600).
I'm sure you can't wait for me to start on the two clamshell Stainzes!!
Very best wishes,
Trevor
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There's a good if long YouTube video on fitting a decoder into an old Stainz, which might help.
I found it very useful when dismantling the motor block on an old whizzy cranks.
 
Have you fitted the chip yet just wondered how you went on with the 6 pin cable and soldering to the chip, I have one waiting to be done just waiting on 6 pin cable been quite impressed with chips in a couple of other locos.
 
Getting a degree of frustration. Opened it up, found the board and fitted the wires as per the colour code on the board. The switches were turned off. I programmed the loco on the handheld and tried to run it. It took off like a scalded cat then ran very hesitantly, followed by the reset light coming on and no more movement. Such fun!
TrevorIMG_20190819_202557.jpg
 
You DID put something non-conductive between the decoder, and that great big METAL weight?
Didn't you?
 
Hi Phil.
You have it in one! Never crossed my mind. I would have were it mains and should have when doing this. Expensive lesson learned.
Thanks,
Trevor
 
All good. One sweetly-running Schoema with a (now) insulated decoder. I really want to run the Stainzes but perhaps they will have to wait until the trials and tribulations of this one have been forgotten.
Maybe someone in East Anglia will volunteer for the job when we come over to visit the relations next May!!!
That 's for all the patience men.
Trevor
 
wandgrudd said:
Trevor ,

So do the lights still work with just the 4 pins connected, just both on all the time i assume?
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They should work 'as analogue'.. The two little black things on the circuit board are diodes, which only conduct in one direction. - These should make the lighting directional.

PhilP.
 
Aha you set the Dips to off. The Decoder is probably best not touching that Metal weight as you can easily cause shorts between bits of the Decoder. Good practice would be to cover the weight with some Gaffa Tape then secure the Decoder to that with some double sided sticky tape. But I see that you have Insulated it now.

Just wait till you try to pull a Stainz apart, lots of nicely hidden screws to confuse. But if it is the right Stainz a 55021 will plug straight onto the Board. Perhaps best to get the Pull Apart Diagram and some pics so that we know which Stainz you will be attempting, though heck I just remembered you said a 3 pin earlier did you not? That is a whole different ball game.
 
PhilP said:
They should work 'as analogue'.. The two little black things on the circuit board are diodes, which only conduct in one direction. - These should make the lighting directional.

PhilP.
Click to expand...


I get that but i thought the purpose of the row of switches was to bypass all of that and send it to the 6 pin plug for the chip to then control?
 
dunnyrail said:
...............

Just wait till you try to pull a Stainz apart, lots of nicely hidden screws to confuse. But if it is the right Stainz a 55021 will plug straight onto the Board. Perhaps best to get the Pull Apart Diagram and some pics so that we know which Stainz you will be attempting, though heck I just remembered you said a 3 pin earlier did you not? That is a whole different ball game.
Click to expand...

Actually, Trevor has said (post 18) that they are both CLAMSHELL Stainzes..... ;)

Chipping one of those is not as scary as some people think, the worst bit is probably getting it all back together afterwards!

Jon.
 
The worst bit is ALWAYS getting it back together! - Especially with nothing left over!!
:giggle::giggle:

wandgrudd said:
I get that but i thought the purpose of the row of switches was to bypass all of that and send it to the 6 pin plug for the chip to then control?
Click to expand...

In theory, yes.. In my experience, these older 'very simple' boards, do not necessarily play-ball.

Personally, on a loco like this, I would remove the original board, plug the track/motor wires directly to the block, and solder the lights to the pads on the decoder.

I quite understand, this might be daunting to someone doing a first install, or with limited soldering skills.
 
Looking forward Jon? Good for you. I believe the saying that challenges are merely slight problems to be faced with cheerfulness and fortitude before their successful resolution.
You will probably have to wait until the middle of September before we start. Enjoy the rest of what summer has to offer.
Trevor
 
Hi. Just to add a caveat to the 'smooth- running' Schoema in that there are no lights I bought the 6-pin interface cable as well, but there's no way I can solder even the bare ends to those tiny pads. I can solder, but not to that degree of precision. I am happy to see the engine running though.
Trevor
 
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