Greg Elmassian
Guest
Can you detail "dropped off", is this a range problem? Was it a pretty clear limit? We don't have a lot of feedback on it.
Fitting battery power to an LGB G Scale Stainz 0-4-0 Steam
- Thread starter brian_pg_white
- Start date
JimmyB
Now retired - trains and fishing
My Stainz's conversion is in the loco:
LGB Stainz Battery Conversion
The End Result Having never ventured in to ...
tumble-down-falls.blogspot.com
Hm interesting I have had no problems at all with mine in a Railcar and 2 others that I have converted for friends work just fine as well. What battery voltage were you feeding the Piko unit?
AustrianNG
Director of my railway
The same voltage as the shunted operates at - that also loses signal in the same manner and it is as it left the factory…..
Are you using them both at the same time?
Have you changed one unit to different channel?
If both units are behaving in the same way, it could be interference, or a local obstruction/reflection, causing your problem..
Have you tried moving 4-6 feet sideways, and seeing if you have control then?
PhilP
The Piko unit recommends 7-24v DC, mine is at 12v DC which is plenty when you have no track power losses to worry about.
AustrianNG
Director of my railway
I have tried all options Phil.
New batteries in all units (locos and fobs)
Indoors outdoors staying within a meter of the loco.
Run one at a time, both at the same time, changed channels on both locos and fobs.
I wonders if it was interference from possible broadband signal.
When I ran the two battery locos outside I did have the track power on and was running locos via the Massoth system.
But that doesn’t explain why the signal dropped out indoors.
Sarah Winfield
Registered
Hello PhilP
I have had to replace my Toshiba computer so please excuse the delay my response.
The locomotive I would like to battery power has I think had some modification.
Firstly the sockets is there but the wires inside the cab have been terminated. Instead there is a connection block with various wires going to the inside of the locomotive.
I can't recall how I came by this locomotive and I wonder if it has been modified for DCC?
I don't want to put you to too much trouble but it would be nice if I could add batteries to this locomotive.
From what I have read the socket would have had 2 wires and by applying power to the socket with a suitable battery the locomotive could be powered that way.
My apologies for being so vague.
Sarah
Mike060976
Registered
Well done. How have you managed to squeeze the batteries in? I was thinking to do the same but with DCC or a sound card from my loco sound
ge_rik
British narrow gauge (esp. Southwold and W&LLR)
In my case, I put a pack of three 14500 (AA sized) li-ion cells on the floor off the cab, shrouded in black tape and they are hardly noticeable.
See - How I converted an LGB Stainz loco to battery power - Version 2
I did wonder about removing one of the weights and putting the batteries in its place but I like my locos to have plenty of adhesion with my 1:40 gradients.
Rik
Mike060976
Registered
Thanks for the fast reply. Yes ideally would be great if I could place the batteries in the boiler where the weight is. That would give me space for the DCC controller. However I need to feed that one with 21V …
I will have to revisit this...
I have done a number (not battery DCC) including a 'push-me, pull-you' set, which can run either in line astern, or cab-to-cab.
Both still have smoke, but the scratchy 'sandpaper' sound presently.
I wonder if I could get our new 'mini' MLS card in a bunker?
You have got me thinking now...
PhilP.
I have done a number (not battery DCC) including a 'push-me, pull-you' set, which can run either in line astern, or cab-to-cab.
Both still have smoke, but the scratchy 'sandpaper' sound presently.
I wonder if I could get our new 'mini' MLS card in a bunker?
You have got me thinking now...
PhilP.
ge_rik
British narrow gauge (esp. Southwold and W&LLR)
Mike060976
Registered
Thank you. I guess that’s impossible to hide…
If you forget DCC, you can run from as little as 9.6V (8x NiMH cells) but a 3S Lithium pack (11.1V)is probably 'better'.
The prototype would never have performed like an express, and it is the voltage that gives you the top speed.
PhilP.
Mike060976
Registered
Something to think about. As long as I can use a smoke generator and a Fosworks sound generator