Fitting A Spring To A Piko Point

D

davecar

Registered
Hi All,

I have decided to do some alterations to my track to create a short crossover to allow locos to go in the sidings, loco first. To do this I need to fit a spring to one of my Piko points, otherwise it is a lot of awkward steps over plants etc, in order to change the point. I have a live steam layout and do not wish to electrify any points. A spring activated point would do the trick.

LGB points appear to be a bit easier to convert, but I have not been able to find anything on putting a spring into a PIKO point.

Any suggestions please.

Kind regards,

Dave
 
I've done it with Peco points. Finding a spring of exactly the right strength is the biggest difficulty. Peco points normally allow 'trail setting' so the first job was to remove the existing over-centre spring. Then I set up a post and stop alongside the stock-rail and inserted the spring from an old floppy disc. This works fine for a couple of years but they do eventually succumb to the elements and soften.
 
The standard LGB manual point lever is spring-loaded by design - is the Piko equivalent not the same? If not I believe you should be able to fit the LGB lever to a Piko point?
 
Just tried looking on line at Piko Points and none of the images I've seen show them with a manual point lever!

But I agree with Nick, a LGB 12060 should work on Piko points?

I used this spring function on my on railway for passing/run round loops.

Can't find/access the YouTube link I have whilst at work but if you look for GizLiz, you can find a video I did of my V52 shunting....
 
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you can, but you have to drill a hole for the 2nd screw and cut away the end of a sleeper to accomodate the manual LGB switch.
I've had to double spring the LGB switch to give it enough tension to work like this
 
owlpool said:
you can, but you have to drill a hole for the 2nd screw and cut away the end of a sleeper to accomodate the manual LGB switch.
I've had to double spring the LGB switch to give it enough tension to work like this
Click to expand...
Useful to know, thanks Paul....
 
Gizzy said:
Just tried looking on line at Piko Points and none of the images I've seen show them with a manual point lever!

But I agree with Nick, a LGB 12060 should work on Piko points?

I used this spring function on my on railway for passing/run round loops.

Can't find/access the YouTube link I have whilst at work but if you look for GizLiz, you can find a video I did of my V52 shunting....
Click to expand...

Hmm, that gives me a thunk! An LGB switch should then fit directly to a Peco point with the use of a Peco PL-8. I have a couple of places where that would be preferable to my current method?
 
G-force1 said:
Hmm, that gives me a thunk! An LGB switch should then fit directly to a Peco point with the use of a Peco PL-8. I have a couple of places where that would be preferable to my current method?
Click to expand...
Not tried it myself as all my points are LGB or TrainLine, but I thought the Peco PL-8 was for fitting a LGB Point motor?

Good bit of lateral thinking though....
 
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You are correct Giz, that is it's intended, but I would have thought the screw fixing positions would be the same.
 
The problem with the Peco one is it doesn't trail (isn't sprung)
 
The Newqida plastic track points include a clone of the LGB lever (might find some going cheap), but I can't remember whether it's properly sprung for trailing operation.
 
If/when my current 'land grab' gets to fruition I will have to source some 'bits', so this stuff will be amongst them.
 
Many thanks for all the suggestions.
It looks like a purchase of LGB 12060 might be worth a go. I live near Hattons in Liverpool and they have this item in stock at a cost of £15 for two. I just need to clarify what you mean by double spring to give it enough tension. How do you do this?
I have not yet bought the points or track to do this and I thought maybe an LGB point if it is compatable with PIKO track. There is however a big difference in cost. A R5 point LGB = £119 and a PIKO R5 = £45. If I can get it to work the LGB part fitted to a PIKO point maybe the answer.

Thanks for all the info.

Dave
 
G
davecar said:
Many thanks for all the suggestions.
It looks like a purchase of LGB 12060 might be worth a go. I live near Hattons in Liverpool and they have this item in stock at a cost of £15 for two. I just need to clarify what you mean by double spring to give it enough tension. How do you do this?
I have not yet bought the points or track to do this and I thought maybe an LGB point if it is compatable with PIKO track. There is however a big difference in cost. A R5 point LGB = £119 and a PIKO R5 = £45. If I can get it to work the LGB part fitted to a PIKO point maybe the answer.

Thanks for all the info.

Dave
Click to expand...
Get some spare springs, I think I got mine from Dragon gscale, carefully take the cover off the manual switch, 2 screws I think, and fit a second spring in the same position, with the first, then reassemble.
A bit of a fiddle
You can also remove the Piko spring from under the point itself I seem to remember
 
davecar said:
Many thanks for all the suggestions.
A R5 point LGB = £119 and a PIKO R5 = £45. If I can get it to work the LGB part fitted to a PIKO point maybe the answer.

Thanks for all the info.

Dave
Click to expand...
Ah, but a LGB R5 point is NOT the same as a PIKO R5?

The PIKO R5 is equivalent to LGB R3.

Confusing innit! You'd have thought they would stick to same conventions, but unfortunately they don't.

LGB R3 at Hattons are £78, according to their website though, which is still more expensive than the PIKO one....
 
Gizzy said:
Ah, but a LGB R5 point is NOT the same as a PIKO R5?
LGB R3 at Hattons are £78, according to their website though, which is still more expensive than the PIKO one....
Click to expand...

LGB R3 comes with point motor, Piko equivalent doesn't?
 
ntpntpntp said:
LGB R3 comes with point motor, Piko equivalent doesn't?
Click to expand...
Ah, good point Nick!

Dave will have to sell on the motor if he goes for LGB....
 
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