Faur L45H / LxD2
- Thread starter jameshilton
- Start date
Well it dried up a little this evening so I've begun painting the Lxd2.
Tonight I applied a first (of two) coats of Humbrol Matt 64 with my airbrush to the roof areas. I've masked the cab to avoid over spray getting inside the cab. After a second coat tomorrow it will be the yellow orange striping, then the main body colour.
A fine dry morning today so I masked the cab windows and grey roof and applied the first of two coats of yellow to the body and chassis parts that will be yellow stripes - another coat tomorrow after work. I finished the grey on Wednesday so it's had a good few days to harden. When the yellow is dry later this week I'll mask where the stripes will be and airbrush the red (Humbrol Matt 100), and then matt black (along the bottom of the bodysides, top surface of the chassis and the bogie sideframes. I'm getting there slowly, steadily and giving each coat of paint a decent time to dry...
Thanks Alyn - always useful to have more photos, and good to group them on this thread for people to use as a resource in the future. Rene (at blauturm) offers this version of the kit as well, although it's a touch more expensive. I chose the plainer bodyside as they seemed to crop up more in old photos of Polish and Romanian narrow gauge (as well as in my Bosnian narrow gauge book) - plus easier to build, as those grilles on each door need to be put together by hand on the other version, whereas the kit I've build has the grill milled into the styrene.
Paul - yes I suspect I'll write an article, hopefully for Continental Modeller - but I've not emailed Andrew Burnham about it yet... it's an excellent, but expensive kit, and it's proven to be very time consuming (in a good way!) but if you've plenty of projects already perhaps finish a few of them first before getting one of these
Paul - yes I suspect I'll write an article, hopefully for Continental Modeller - but I've not emailed Andrew Burnham about it yet... it's an excellent, but expensive kit, and it's proven to be very time consuming (in a good way!) but if you've plenty of projects already perhaps finish a few of them first before getting one of these
if only I had that amount of willpower . .. . .jameshilton said:perhaps finish a few of them first before getting one of these
It looks very much like Mr DTS driving in picture number 8.
I really wish I had the patience and skill to make this as well as you have. Very jelous.
I really wish I had the patience and skill to make this as well as you have. Very jelous.
David - excellent - thanks, good to see that one on JHMD again. It's a strange prototype, as it doesn't have the pressed steel doors, neither does it have the same pattern of doors as my version, although it is closer to mine. I wonder if there is a third bodyside variation at the factory that I wasn't aware of, or if it has been modified at some point.
Dave - patience and some basic tools are all you really need to do the basic kit
In G-scale you don't often have the cash or the variety in available kits to practice the skills though - if I'd not have been doing this for years in 4mm I guess I'd too wonder if I had the skills. Thank you for the kind words, but trust me, most of us would be able to put this kit together - it is well thought out and accurately machined
Update - tons and tons of rain forecast this week so I don't expect to get any more paint on until the weekend.
Dave - patience and some basic tools are all you really need to do the basic kit
In G-scale you don't often have the cash or the variety in available kits to practice the skills though - if I'd not have been doing this for years in 4mm I guess I'd too wonder if I had the skills. Thank you for the kind words, but trust me, most of us would be able to put this kit together - it is well thought out and accurately machined
Update - tons and tons of rain forecast this week so I don't expect to get any more paint on until the weekend.
Superb work James and I really like the livery. I think the Isle of Man Railway are buying one of these so it shouldn't look out of place when I bring my stock around. Do you think you might build a 15mm Schoema next?
Best
Tim
Best
Tim
Thanks Tim. I've had a tough time with the yellow (more on my blog) but it's done now so I can mask the stripes and spray the red!
Yes I understand the IOMR will be buying one but that it will be heavily rebuilt to reduce the loading gauge and fit a cab at each end, so I guess it will be pretty unrecognisable! Will I be building one of the Worsley Works IOM Viking in 15mm next? Nope. One thing is certain, my narrow gauge will focus on Austrian outline (with a smattering of Czech or Polish)! I also thInk that in this scale that styrene is a better kit material, as in this case
Looking forward to seeing your stock again this summer mind! I'll drop you an email this week!
Yes I understand the IOMR will be buying one but that it will be heavily rebuilt to reduce the loading gauge and fit a cab at each end, so I guess it will be pretty unrecognisable! Will I be building one of the Worsley Works IOM Viking in 15mm next? Nope. One thing is certain, my narrow gauge will focus on Austrian outline (with a smattering of Czech or Polish)! I also thInk that in this scale that styrene is a better kit material, as in this case
Looking forward to seeing your stock again this summer mind! I'll drop you an email this week!
Well a tedious but rewarding hour and a half spent tonight cutting and applying masking tape to the Blauturm L45H/Lxd2 this evening.
I always use B&Q Premium Grade tape, and cut it to the right size using a scalpel and steel ruler. You stick the tape to a sheet of glass which means you get a nice sharp neat cut. I use an old clip frame for this, although tonight I could have done with one a touch bigger, however the shorter pieces were probably easier to handle.
To prove I've done a decent job here is a snap of each end so you can see they're even and the same height both sides. I started on one can side, worked down the short hood to the nose, then the same the other side, added the V pieces and then moved on to the long hood.
I also have done the chassis buffer beam stripes. All ready for a coat of Humbrol Matt 100 tomorrow night, I'm very excited!
I always use B&Q Premium Grade tape, and cut it to the right size using a scalpel and steel ruler. You stick the tape to a sheet of glass which means you get a nice sharp neat cut. I use an old clip frame for this, although tonight I could have done with one a touch bigger, however the shorter pieces were probably easier to handle.
To prove I've done a decent job here is a snap of each end so you can see they're even and the same height both sides. I started on one can side, worked down the short hood to the nose, then the same the other side, added the V pieces and then moved on to the long hood.
I also have done the chassis buffer beam stripes. All ready for a coat of Humbrol Matt 100 tomorrow night, I'm very excited!
tedious job I know but well worth it, this is going to look fantastic painted. I think the sun is due out this week so perhaps you can get most of it painted.
Tim
Tim
Well I've worked out why I've been struggling with my airbrush recently, it appears I have damaged the needle so I'll need to pick one up from Expo tools again.
With a bodge repair effected, I managed to get a good solid coat of Humbrol Matt 100 on the chassis and body. Despite itching to remove the masking tape to see what I've created I'm resisting the urge and will get a second coat on tonight!
With a bodge repair effected, I managed to get a good solid coat of Humbrol Matt 100 on the chassis and body. Despite itching to remove the masking tape to see what I've created I'm resisting the urge and will get a second coat on tonight!
That is bright, for some reason I thought it was going to be red with a yellow stripe. This will certainly be a nice contrast to the black locomotives and fit in nicely with the other diesel.
Resisting the temptation to peek under the masking tape is always hard. I did this on an O gauge Hymek and ruined the finish.
Will I be able to see it at the weekend?
Best
Tim
Resisting the temptation to peek under the masking tape is always hard. I did this on an O gauge Hymek and ruined the finish.
Will I be able to see it at the weekend?
Best
Tim