Electric Loco Sound

PhilP

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MLS is not fully compatible with DCC but can be installed in a DCC locomotive as the link below shows, but you will not be able to call any of the sounds IE Whistle with a button so you need to rely on an automated setup.
Not true!

Read the second paragraph, in the link.

PhilP
 
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Hah!

If not compatible with DCC means it cannot be powered by DCC track power, that is not true, you can do it.

If not compatible with DCC means cannot be remotely controlled by DCC commands, that is true.

I think Phil and the link reference the second case, Dunnyrail (and I) would probably mean the first case, i.e. no DCC control.

DCC track power can easily be converted to high quality DC for powering things on board, that was one of the basic reasons to use a symmetrical square wave.

Greg
 

dunnyrail

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craigwrdouglas2

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Fred2179G

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Is the “he” the OP, or Jack who the OP is talking about, and if Jack has post he is running Airwire, why did he not ask the question himself.

Perhaps he's more used to writing to Ask Aunty problem pages

I don't know why the snide comments to a fairly simple question.

As Greg says, I am helping Jack, who happens to be 84 yrs old and his memory is starting to go. He can't even remember who converted this loco to battery-r/c. He is not a big internet user, but he has a large garden railroad that I maintain as it is the only place I can run my trains, and he loves to see the trains run.

Not having run his trains for 2 years due to covid, we're trying to persuade them to work. This one ran for an hour then quit - sound first and then it slowed and stopped. The Airwire G3 board burns my fingers and refuses to link to the TX, so we assume it is fried. It has a Phoenix P8 card, which may have the GG-1 sound file in it, but we have no way to know as the programmer cables are unavailable due to Phoenix refusing to talk to clients. I can't persuade it to make a peep, yet, though I found the wires to the speed function are loose. I think we next disconnect the P8 card and feed it properly per the manual, to see if it works.

Thank you to the polite folk who confirmed my suspicion of how an electric loco sounds. I did travel behind a GG-1 back in 1976, but my memory isn't good enough to recall much! And thanks for the suggestions of alternative sound options, though I don't think he wants to spend $219 on a new P8 card and $169 on an Airwire G4 to replace the ones in the loco.

Personally, I'm trying to avoid having to go through the learning curve of DCC programming with a new Airwire board, as it isn't even my loco. I much prefer Mylocosound!
 
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Paul M

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I don't know why the snide comments to a fairly simple question.

As Greg says, I am helping Jack, who happens to be 84 yrs old and his memory is starting to go. He can't even remember who converted this loco to battery-r/c. He is not a big internet user, but he has a large garden railroad that I maintain as it is the only place I can run my trains, and he loves to see the trains run.

Not having run his trains for 2 years due to covid, we're trying to persuade them to work. This one ran for an hour then quit - sound first and then it slowed and stopped. The Airwire G3 board burns my fingers and refuses to link to the TX, so we assume it is fried. It has a Phoenix P8 card, which may have the GG-1 sound file in it, but we have no way to know as the programmer cables are unavailable due to Phoenix refusing to talk to clients. I can't persuade it to make a peep, yet, though I found the wires to the speed function are loose. I think we next disconnect the P8 card and feed it properly per the manual, to see if it works.

Thank you to the polite folk who confirmed my suspicion of how an electric loco sounds. I did travel behind a GG-1 back in 1976, but my memory isn't good enough to recall much! And thanks for the suggestions of alternative sound options, though I don't think he wants to spend $219 on a new P8 card and $169 on an Airwire G4 to replace the ones in the loco.

Personally, I'm trying to avoid having to go through the learning curve of DCC programming with a new Airwire board, as it isn't even my loco. I much prefer Mylocosound!
Sorry, I shouldn't have been so flippant
 

JimmyB

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I don't know why the snide comments to a fairly simple question.
The comments were no against you or the question, but other’s presumptions, please read before sniping.
 

Dan

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Zimo has a GG1 sound file as well as a USA street car sound file available. Look at the pdf file for all the sounds that can be activated.
 

LGB333

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I don't know why the snide comments to a fairly simple question.

As Greg says, I am helping Jack, who happens to be 84 yrs old and his memory is starting to go. He can't even remember who converted this loco to battery-r/c. He is not a big internet user, but he has a large garden railroad that I maintain as it is the only place I can run my trains, and he loves to see the trains run.

Not having run his trains for 2 years due to covid, we're trying to persuade them to work. This one ran for an hour then quit - sound first and then it slowed and stopped. The Airwire G3 board burns my fingers and refuses to link to the TX, so we assume it is fried. It has a Phoenix P8 card, which may have the GG-1 sound file in it, but we have no way to know as the programmer cables are unavailable due to Phoenix refusing to talk to clients. I can't persuade it to make a peep, yet, though I found the wires to the speed function are loose. I think we next disconnect the P8 card and feed it properly per the manual, to see if it works.

Thank you to the polite folk who confirmed my suspicion of how an electric loco sounds. I did travel behind a GG-1 back in 1976, but my memory isn't good enough to recall much! And thanks for the suggestions of alternative sound options, though I don't think he wants to spend $219 on a new P8 card and $169 on an Airwire G4 to replace the ones in the loco.

Personally, I'm trying to avoid having to go through the learning curve of DCC programming with a new Airwire board, as it isn't even my loco. I much prefer Mylocosound!
Fred - The other option, besides the Massoth S Decoder, is the LGB 65004 Euro Electric Sound Module.........they don't produce an American Electric but all electrics are fairly similar except perhaps the whistle. The LGB 65000 series Sound Modules are simple to wire like the Massoth S Sound Decoder: Two wires are connected from the locomotive's track power input to the Module. It has a self-contained small speaker. When I install one of these LGB Sound Modules into an LGB Mogul, I open up the black plastic case and remove the sound decoder from it and disconnect the two blue wires to the speaker. I then solder the Module's speaker wires to a Massoth 70mm speaker that fits LGB Mogul tender's speaker base; I Velcro the speaker magnet and then mount the Sound Module on top of the speaker. The Sound Module, like most sound decoders operating in DC analog power, won't start to make sound until they receive about 9 volts, so connecting the LGB 65011 Power Caps, when charged up, will activate the Sound Module when a locomotive starts up and also play the standing sounds like coal shoveling. You can also attach an LGB 65012 Sound Activation Trigger for activating the whistle/horn and bell sounds using track magnets. I sell the LGB Sound Modules $180, the Power Caps $80, and Sound Activation Trigger $22. They're listed on my Website: Old Dominion Railways - LGB Trains.
LGB 65000 Series Sound Module.pngLGB 65000 Series Sound Module - Power Caps.png