Just bought a load of G scale plastic track and an RC train from ECR to keep me busy in my retirement. Layout is complete now at about 500mm above the ground around a raised fish pond with a bridge. I've managed to do it by cutting and gluing rails with perspex joining bits made on my CNC router as in this plastic track kit there is only one size curve and straight (300mm) along with points. No other sizes are available so it won't join up when making random layouts. Now about to start maing accessories. 1st one I've made is buffers! Stops the train diving into the pond... No about to change the RC to longer range and control everything using arduino and chinese RC switches. I hope to enjoy this forum!
ECR G scale
- Thread starter MickyF
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Wow! thanks for the welcome! Track expansion... Have measured it across a 3 metre length and it's about 20mm! That's from 10 degrees C to 31 degreees C (it was that here yesterday!). So I've fixed it where it goes across the bridge (width is critical for turning rolling stock). Now puzzling out how to electrify the points that will move...
I believe that the Newqida/"Train" plastic points come with manual switches that look, certainly from the photos, like close copies of the standard LGB manual points switch; if that is the case, then it should be relatively easy to swap them for some LGB electric point motors, or indeed any other cross-compatible motor (eg: Piko, TL45), and then just wire them up to some suitable control switches and power supply.
Jon.
The newqida manual points switches are exactly like the lgbs, I have had to add some to used lgb points that were missing the switch they fit perfectly.
I would give them a coat of paint.. I do not believe the NQ plastics to be as UV stable as that used by LGB?
I've stripped out the sprung loaded points switch boxes (Newquida plastic points) and using piano wire to push the rod added a servo benath my raised track - using arduino and servo controller controlled from my signal box (5 sets of points) it works a treat. The servo also flips a microswitch that changes all the bi-colour led signals around the points. Probably not the way it's done re block signals but hey it looks pretty especially at night!
No it's nothing compared to lgb or any other major brand. So far I have had my newqida track on my layout for almost 5 years outside in the Florida sun, so far not too bad. I finally got enough brass track to replace it (next project)
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I envy your Sun! I've gotten spoiled by the mild Fall and forgotten what Winter's all about.
Now here's an observation... If the train approaches the points and they are floating it will not derail it will just move the points to the direction it's coming from. So why did I put servos on my points cos that will now not work as they arew switched solid!
I'm not a fan of pushing through a trailing point - you've gone about it the right way IMHO
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Considered 'bad practice' (forbidden?) for mainline operations, but quite common on preserved railways..
You need to research 'Omega loop', as an answer to your problem..
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As Rhino says not a fan either, and for smaller gauges used omega loops on all my motorised points, if you make them yourself the grade of metal is important, for them both to work and not fracture.
Hm not actually so, there are or were many installations of sprung points on BR single line Railways. Even including facing point locking, fiendishly clever those BR Signalling guys were.Considered 'bad practice' (forbidden?) for mainline operations, but quite common on preserved railways..
You need to research 'Omega loop', as an answer to your problem..