Derailments on LGB R3 point with Bachmann metal wheeled wagons

markrussell1966

markrussell1966

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IMG_0599.jpegIMG_0600.jpegIMG_0601.jpegHi can anyone shed any light on this; I have a RH LGB R3 point whereby when Bachmann trucks with metal wheels enter the single input side of the point the wheel flanges have a tendency to ride up over the end of the point switch blade. I have attached a couple of images and I have noticed that compared to some of my other LGB R3 points the point switch blade doesn’t seem to sit correctly and there is a blunt edge on it, I think which is causing the issue. Anyone else experienced this? The third image shows an LGB R3 point with no issues whereby the point blade seems to be much more chamfered. Is it time to get the file out?
 
I think I would get the pliers out, before removing any metal with a file?

Try easing the toe over towards the fixed rail.. I don't think it will need a lot.

Also check the back-to-back of the wheels.

PhilP
 
Interesting. I've been fiddling with a set of R3 points this week and I'm glad I'm not the only one not too impressed with the moving blade. I've replaced the iffy one with an almost new one and am still not all that happy, though re-laying it and the adjoining track, to ensure perfect alignment and flatness has made it 99% usuable, Weirdly, the replacement point has no cover plate over the tie bar either - no holes for fitting one either, so it must have been made that way.
 
I can certainly see some slight work on the blade to the centre could be of help and as Phil says back to back plus lack of wobble on bachman wheels which are not the best in the scale. Though I do use many bachman sets of wheels with few issues, but ant that cause a derailment are given a green card to Gernrode for investigation in the workshop. Green card being a BR expression for a faulty wagon in need of repairs but abke to travel to the shops. Red card had to be looked at where found.
 
In the past I have found that Bachmann metal wheels can be slightly out of gauge. But the last few pairs I have purchased have all been spot on. They do not have the sharp edge on the flange that LGB wheels have. I wonder if the lack of this edge could be causing your wheels to ride up on the chamfered point blade, shown in your first two photos.
 
Yes I have had similar issues. You can clearly see the difference between the good point blade with a knife edge and the problematic blade with a wide edge. Assuming that the blades move freely and there is absolutely no tiniest piece of debris stopping full movement I would definately sharpen the end of the offending point blade. A cut-off wheel in a Dremel makes the job easy. I've had to 'modify' a few of my own LGB points to correct poor manufacturing by LGB.
AL
 
Interestingly I ran through by hand an LGB metal wheeled coach and even when pushed against the blunt point blade it rides smoothly through. The Bachmann metal wheeled stock rides straight up the blunt edge and derails though. I guess this demonstrates the difference between LGB metal wheels and Bachmann metal wheels?
 
markrussell1966 said:
Interestingly I ran through by hand an LGB metal wheeled coach and even when pushed against the blunt point blade it rides smoothly through. The Bachmann metal wheeled stock rides straight up the blunt edge and derails though. I guess this demonstrates the difference between LGB metal wheels and Bachmann metal wheels?
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Definately - the Bachmann wheels have slightly thicker flanges and are not quite as sharp at the tips of the flanges. Difficult to measure but visible if you look closely.
The better standard of LGB wheels allow them to be more tolerant of the variations of track quality.
Alan
 
viaEstrecha said:
Interesting. I've been fiddling with a set of R3 points this week and I'm glad I'm not the only one not too impressed with the moving blade. I've replaced the iffy one with an almost new one and am still not all that happy, though re-laying it and the adjoining track, to ensure perfect alignment and flatness has made it 99% usuable, Weirdly, the replacement point has no cover plate over the tie bar either - no holes for fitting one either, so it must have been made that way.
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Don't worry, once you've sorted the iffy blade, you've only got to sort the iffy check rail.

'Orrible things LGB R3 - got rid of mine and have a couple of Aristo 10ft ;);)
 
Rhinochugger said:
Don't worry, once you've sorted the iffy blade, you've only got to sort the iffy check rail.

'Orrible things LGB R3 - got rid of mine and have a couple of Aristo 10ft ;);)
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Have to say I have near a dozen LGB R3’s and I have no problems with them now, in track power days some had an issue with shorting at the frog but never any problems with the blade or check rail. But they are all old and date from true LGB German production, possibly why they are less problamatic?
 
dunnyrail said:
Have to say I have near a dozen LGB R3’s and I have no problems with them now, in track power days some had an issue with shorting at the frog but never any problems with the blade or check rail. But they are all old and date from true LGB German production, possibly why they are less problamatic?
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Same for me I reckon?

No probs with LGB or Bachmann metal wheels on my older R3 points....
 
I do have the occasional derailment on LBB R3, and mainly with Bachmann metal wheels, but hand push/pull, and I can't identify what the issue. My initial thoughts were the B2B being too large, but it is small if anything, I just accept it as part of life :)
 
JimmyB said:
I do have the occasional derailment on LBB R3, and mainly with Bachmann metal wheels, but hand push/pull, and I can't identify what the issue. My initial thoughts were the B2B being too large, but it is small if anything, I just accept it as part of life :)
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You don't have to accept it

"I had all I can stands, and I ain't gonna stands no more"

flat,750x,075,f-pad,750x1000,f8f8f8.jpg
 
Rhinochugger said:
Don't worry, once you've sorted the iffy blade, you've only got to sort the iffy check rail.
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Yes the check rail problem bothered me also. Some locos kick badly when the check rail pulls them sideways, a most unrealistic appearance. The check rail wears more and more over time and makes it look even worse.
I decided to extend the check rail on all of my R3 points with a short length of rail, filed, bent and glued in to position.
IMG_20210228_123646776_HDR.jpg
 
A novel solution ! I see what you did there. You not only bent the end of you brass extension, but you have also skewed the rail ever so slightly so as to ease the loco's wheels, in this case, toward the upper part of the picture.
 
I have found that checking the wheels is very necessary. LGB allows for lots of side to side play, USA Train wheels fit tightly between the rails. I place the truck in my vise and have found a 1/8 turn of the vise handle will adjust these to have a looser fit between the rails thus giving less friction when pulling many cars. And no issues at switches/points or crossovers.
 
I mentioned earlier my issues, today I ran my worse performing loco (Bachmann 10 wheeler (Tender)) and rolling stock (Bachmann JS coach), through all my points which are mainly LGB R3, and had no issues at all, just needed to ensure the point and track leading to and from the point are all on the same plain.
 
When the back-to-back varies between vendors, it is almost impossible to make everything work smoothly. When I made my own track, I was trying to accommodate semi-scale and regular profile wheels and discovered it can't be done.
 
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