DCC Stainz

Greg Elmassian said:
As I said, there are many variations, and if I was in the UK, I would consider the weatherproof ones. I would guess even in the UK, 3M is a big supplier.

what are choc-blocks? I'm keeping the goals of easy to install, no special tools, no soldering.....

Greg
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Greg
I think he was referring to a terminal strip.

www.ebay.com.au

Chocolate Block Connector Strip 12 Way 10 Amp Electrical Terminal Strips Wire | eBay

10 Amp High Quality Connector Strip. 12 Way Polyethylene Connector Strip. Sold As an Individual Strip of 12. Captive Screws, Brass Inserts, 80 Degree Rated. We operate a dispatch policy to ensure your parcel will be processed within 24 hours.
www.ebay.com.au
 
Greg Elmassian said:
As I said, there are many variations, and if I was in the UK, I would consider the weatherproof ones. I would guess even in the UK, 3M is a big supplier.

what are choc-blocks? I'm keeping the goals of easy to install, no special tools, no soldering.....

Greg
Click to expand...
Choc blocks are two way electrical connectors with a screw connection; another name for them is terminal connectors. They come in various sizes. The link in my post shows a strip of choc blocks and you can cut off whatever number of connections you need. Here is a link showing how they are used: https://www.arrow.com/en/research-and-events/articles/connectors-basics-of-terminal-blocks-and-types
They are called choc blocks (sometimes chocblocks) because originally they were made in brown plastic and so resembled a square of chocolate broken off a slb.
 
Paul M said:
View attachment 291740
Something like this may be useful, if not too expensive
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Wago, used for mains power, there are number of different ones, and smaller light ones are very good

2-conductor lighting connector (224-112) | WAGO GB

2-conductor lighting connector; push-button on lighting side; Lighting side: for all conductor types; Inst. side: for solid conductors; 224 Series; max. 2.5 mm²; Surrounding air temperature: max 60°C; 2,50 mm²; white (4044918583596) Online at WAGO GB!
www.wago.com www.wago.com
 
Greg Elmassian said:
So a complete range... I'd wager my first suggestion is cheapest and easiest since you don't strip the wire... but the ones with screw terminals can be opened and closed multiple times.
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True about not stripping the wire, I still have a few of these Scotch-locks about, both the choc-block and Wago can be reused, the Wago being a similar as the Scotch-lock as it is just a lever action for most, or a squeeze for the lighting ones.
 
I like them all for different things. I personally like screw terminals, allows the step by step wiring technique I normally use and helps debugging.

The suitcase type of connectors are good for people who want to keep costs down, and have relatively few connections and don't want to solder.

The more sophisticated "clamp type" need stripped wires, and often just one wire per "hole" so if you are connecting multiple wires, you need like a "ganged" unit, where several are connected together, which now gets bulky. Also in my experience, they do not deal with with multiple gauges, often you have thin LED wires and heavier gauge "source" wires and the motor wires are another variation.

All depends on your comfort level and budget and to a certain extent available space.

Greg
 
Thank you, Gentlemen. I have plenty of the terminal block strips which are probably the most compact.

I'm waiting for Chris Rennie to finish his development work on a Stainz locomotive.

Sarah
 
To GAP and Dunnyrail.

You both sent me the same thing but I'm still grateful. These would have been useful for previous projects.

Once I know what is involved in the battery and r/c conversion then I'll know if I can use these.

Regards,
Sarah
 
GAP said:
You could always look at these, compact with a solder joint and easily installed using a heat gun.
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I can see where these would be useful items to have on hand in certain circumstances. I'd be very reluctant to have a heat gun hot enough the melt the solder blowing anywhere near my loco chassis and body however!
 
phils2um said:
I can see where these would be useful items to have on hand in certain circumstances. I'd be very reluctant to have a heat gun hot enough the melt the solder blowing anywhere near my loco chassis and body however!
Click to expand...

Phil with a directed nozzle, the heat dissipates quite quickly, and within an inch or so is only warm, i.e. won't burn skin.
 
phils2um said:
I can see where these would be useful items to have on hand in certain circumstances. I'd be very reluctant to have a heat gun hot enough the melt the solder blowing anywhere near my loco chassis and body however!
Click to expand...
A light touch with a soldering iron body not the tip should work for theses.
 
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