DCC Stainz

[Sarah Winfield]

It is a while since I posted but here I am with another problem. I'm fairly sure my Stainz 2020 DCC used to operate with my Bachmann EZ controller. It has lain in a cupboard for a couple of years. Recently when trying to run it there is no sign of activity. The controller seems to be OK. that is the lights for power and locomotive selection light up and change when selecting a locomotive registration. I don't know whether there is power going to the track. How can I check this please? I understand there should be a constant AC voltage at the track. How can I verify this, please? Thanks

 

[Greg Elmassian]

First HELLO! Welcome back, the thread you started still continues, we see your name every day and I wonder how you are doing.

So, a simple voltmeter set to measure "AC" can be used. It will not be accurate, but it will indicate power. You will want to see something maybe around 20 volts, but it can vary.

If you could find a 24 volt light bulb that would work (make the assumption that there is no more than 24 volts on the track). Alternatively you could solder two small 12 volt automotive bulbs (like are used for internal lights in the inside of a car) to make a "24 volt" bulb... solder them in series....

Of course if you don't see it on the rails, work your way backwards to the command station/booster.

Can you remind us of what system you are using? (make and model number)

Regards, Greg

 

[ebay mike]

Sarah, is there an on/off switch in the loco cab in case it's not the power supply?

 

[playmofire]

Not being sarcastic, Sarah, from experience when I wrote computer instructions I always started off with "Is the computer plugged in?" followed by "Is the socket turned on?" If these are both "Yes", check connections between the transformer and the controller if they are separate and between the controller and the track.

 

[Sarah Winfield]

Sarah, is there an on/off switch in the loco cab in case it's not the power supply?

Thanks for your interest. Not in the 2020 locomotive. In my other Stainz's 20212, yes there is a switch but it is the 2020 locomotive I wish to battery drive. This situation is not unusual for me.

I'm going to risk dismantling the 2020. It has been dismantled by its previous owner because it has a decoder fitted. I'll rip all that out and simply connect the battery and the R/C.

 

[phils2um]

Hi Sarah, Welcome back. I don't have anything to add except best wishes for your battery conversion.

Edit added: If you don't know/remember the DCC address you can try using an DC analog transformer if you just want check whether your Stainz runs. There is a good chance the decoder was setup to operate with analog track power in addition to DCC. It will not harm the loco or decoder to try. If the loco doesn't run this isn't definitive because it is possible the decoder was set for DCC only.

 

[dunnyrail]

Hi Sarah, you should find GE Riks blog a big help, though he has done this conversion using a Battery car I am sure he has subsequently done one with on board batteries.

Peckforton Light Railway

Narrow gauge large scale model garden railway. Battery powered, radio controlled locomotives, some Bluetooth. Set in Cheshire UK in 1930s

riksrailway.blogspot.com

 

[Sarah Winfield]

Not being sarcastic, Sarah, from experience when I wrote computer instructions I always started off with "Is the computer plugged in?" followed by "Is the socket turned on?" If these are both "Yes", check connections between the transformer and the controller if they are separate and between the controller and the track.

You can be as sarcastic as you like, it makes no difference to me and I won't be offended by whatever contributors say. Yes, the Bachmann controller is plugged in. I have 3 lights showing, 1) to show power, 2) for forward and reverse 3) locomotive address and function buttons.
I've tried using a multi-meter but still no response from the wire from the controller to the track..

Hi Sarah, Welcome back. I don't have anything to add except best wishes for your battery conversion.

Edit added: If you don't know/remember the DCC address you can try using an DC analog transformer if you just want check whether your Stainz runs. There is a good chance the decoder was setup to operate with analog track power in addition to DCC. It will not harm the loco or decoder to try. If the loco doesn't run this isn't definitive because it is possible the decoder was set for DCC only.

Hi Phil.

Thank you. I'm going to experiment with my DC controller to see if anything happens. Nothing to lose now as I'm going to dismantle the locomotive anyway.

 

[JimmyB]

Sara, I have also converted a Stainz to RC battery and detailed on my blog:

LGB Stainz Battery Conversion

Having never ventured in to battery power or remote control (R/C), I bought ...

tumble-down-falls.blogspot.com

 

[Sarah Winfield]

Sara, I have also converted a Stainz to RC battery and detailed on my blog:

LGB Stainz Battery Conversion

Having never ventured in to battery power or remote control (R/C), I bought ...

tumble-down-falls.blogspot.com

Thank you. I have read your blog. It seems quite complicated. I'm going to wait on help from Locoremote.
Thanks for your interest.

 

[Greg Elmassian]

Jimmy went to a lot of extra effort to add connectors to everything, and he has a balancing charger, thus the complexity.

I think you may be looking for a much simpler installation. How are your soldering skills?

Greg

 

[Sarah Winfield]

Jimmy went to a lot of extra effort to add connectors to everything, and he has a balancing charger, thus the complexity.

I think you may be looking for a much simpler installation. How are your soldering skills?

Greg

Hello Greg.

Not the best I'm afraid. But please let me know what you are thinking. Thanks

 

[Sarah Winfield]

You can be as sarcastic as you like, it makes no difference to me and I won't be offended by whatever contributors say. Yes, the Bachmann controller is plugged in. I have 3 lights showing, 1) to show power, 2) for forward and reverse 3) locomotive address and function buttons.
I've tried using a multi-meter but still no response from the wire from the controller to the track..

Hi Phil.

Thank you. I'm going to experiment with my DC controller to see if anything happens. Nothing to lose now as I'm going to dismantle the locomotive anyway.

Further to my previous posts. I have the locomotive running with my Gaugemaster series P controller. I'm told it should run using 4 x AA batteries? It's something I'm going to try today.

 

[JimmyB]

Further to my previous posts. I have the locomotive running with my Gaugemaster series P controller. I'm told it should run using 4 x AA batteries? It's something I'm going to try today.

Confused, I thought you were going to convert it to battery power, are you saying it is already converted.

 

[Sarah Winfield]

Confused, I thought you were going to convert it to battery power, are you saying it is already converted.

Sorry for my confusing you. No, the locomotive is not yet battery powered. I was referring to me trying the locomotive with some AA batteries I have to make sure what I have been told i.e. that the locomotive will move with just those batteries.

 

[Sarah Winfield]

Confused, I thought you were going to convert it to battery power, are you saying it is already converted.

 

[Greg Elmassian]

That would be 6 volts Sarah, it should move, not fast.

 

[Sarah Winfield]

Thanks Greg. Yes, it does work but at a snails pace. You inferred when asking about my soldering skills there may be an easier conversion than that carried out by Jimmy B. Would you elucidate me, please?

Thank you

 

[Greg Elmassian]

Not really meaning to state a specific path, but if this is helpful, I'm sure we can talk about how to avoid soldering, there are methods using "suitcase" connectors that you crimp on the wires with just regular pliers.

So if that is a helpful direction, we can explore alternatives, if you wish.

Basically the wire is placed in the connector body, and then by squeezing the connector closed, a v shaped blade comes down on the wire, cuts through the insulation and makes contact with the wire. There are many different styles, including waterproof. This picture is probably the most recognizable by many, but is not waterproof. This were pioneered by the 3M corporation, called "Scotch Lok" and are IDC, Insulation Displacement Connectors.

 

[playmofire]

I remember those from my amateur car electrics days. I haven't seen them in the shops over here for years. Maybe choc-blocks would be easier to find, possibly Halford's.

3240171 | Phoenix Contact Terminal Strip, 32A, 12 → 18 AWG Wire | RS

uk.rs-online.com