DCC Stainz

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As I said, there are many variations, and if I was in the UK, I would consider the weatherproof ones. I would guess even in the UK, 3M is a big supplier.

what are choc-blocks? I'm keeping the goals of easy to install, no special tools, no soldering.....

Greg
 

GAP

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As I said, there are many variations, and if I was in the UK, I would consider the weatherproof ones. I would guess even in the UK, 3M is a big supplier.

what are choc-blocks? I'm keeping the goals of easy to install, no special tools, no soldering.....

Greg
Greg
I think he was referring to a terminal strip.

 

playmofire

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As I said, there are many variations, and if I was in the UK, I would consider the weatherproof ones. I would guess even in the UK, 3M is a big supplier.

what are choc-blocks? I'm keeping the goals of easy to install, no special tools, no soldering.....

Greg
Choc blocks are two way electrical connectors with a screw connection; another name for them is terminal connectors. They come in various sizes. The link in my post shows a strip of choc blocks and you can cut off whatever number of connections you need. Here is a link showing how they are used: https://www.arrow.com/en/research-and-events/articles/connectors-basics-of-terminal-blocks-and-types
They are called choc blocks (sometimes chocblocks) because originally they were made in brown plastic and so resembled a square of chocolate broken off a slb.
 

playmofire

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Paul M

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1635490250108.png
Something like this may be useful, if not too expensive
 

JimmyB

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View attachment 291740
Something like this may be useful, if not too expensive
Wago, used for mains power, there are number of different ones, and smaller light ones are very good

 

JimmyB

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So a complete range... I'd wager my first suggestion is cheapest and easiest since you don't strip the wire... but the ones with screw terminals can be opened and closed multiple times.
True about not stripping the wire, I still have a few of these Scotch-locks about, both the choc-block and Wago can be reused, the Wago being a similar as the Scotch-lock as it is just a lever action for most, or a squeeze for the lighting ones.
 
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I like them all for different things. I personally like screw terminals, allows the step by step wiring technique I normally use and helps debugging.

The suitcase type of connectors are good for people who want to keep costs down, and have relatively few connections and don't want to solder.

The more sophisticated "clamp type" need stripped wires, and often just one wire per "hole" so if you are connecting multiple wires, you need like a "ganged" unit, where several are connected together, which now gets bulky. Also in my experience, they do not deal with with multiple gauges, often you have thin LED wires and heavier gauge "source" wires and the motor wires are another variation.

All depends on your comfort level and budget and to a certain extent available space.

Greg
 

Sarah Winfield

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Thank you, Gentlemen. I have plenty of the terminal block strips which are probably the most compact.

I'm waiting for Chris Rennie to finish his development work on a Stainz locomotive.

Sarah
 

GAP

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dunnyrail

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Sarah Winfield

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To GAP and Dunnyrail.

You both sent me the same thing but I'm still grateful. These would have been useful for previous projects.

Once I know what is involved in the battery and r/c conversion then I'll know if I can use these.

Regards,
Sarah
 

phils2um

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You could always look at these, compact with a solder joint and easily installed using a heat gun.
I can see where these would be useful items to have on hand in certain circumstances. I'd be very reluctant to have a heat gun hot enough the melt the solder blowing anywhere near my loco chassis and body however!
 

JimmyB

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I can see where these would be useful items to have on hand in certain circumstances. I'd be very reluctant to have a heat gun hot enough the melt the solder blowing anywhere near my loco chassis and body however!

Phil with a directed nozzle, the heat dissipates quite quickly, and within an inch or so is only warm, i.e. won't burn skin.
 

dunnyrail

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I can see where these would be useful items to have on hand in certain circumstances. I'd be very reluctant to have a heat gun hot enough the melt the solder blowing anywhere near my loco chassis and body however!
A light touch with a soldering iron body not the tip should work for theses.