KeithT
Hillwalking, chickens and - err - garden railways.
Personally, I wish it would not list all the OO stuff with G scale..
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DCC / Sound advice lgb 22801
- Thread starter Nighthaunt
- Start date
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Nighthaunt
Registered
Well....
After messaging the seller to see if there was the D imprint on the motor block and getting told no (and seller lowering price by 20%) the loco arrived yesterday.
It's got the D and the circle label which means it only needs the 6 pole decoder adaptor to fit a decoder - easier than requiring it completely (mind you have some shutters need to do that too and the 2095 whirligig) so makes life much easier.
Think will sort out the decoder and speaker after pay day in March
will try and post an update and photo with the speaker adaptor plate installation.
After messaging the seller to see if there was the D imprint on the motor block and getting told no (and seller lowering price by 20%) the loco arrived yesterday.
It's got the D and the circle label which means it only needs the 6 pole decoder adaptor to fit a decoder - easier than requiring it completely (mind you have some shutters need to do that too and the 2095 whirligig) so makes life much easier.
Think will sort out the decoder and speaker after pay day in March
will try and post an update and photo with the speaker adaptor plate installation.
Neil Robinson
Registered
Meanwhile, if you're going for a Massoth decoder I suggest you investigate their 8242030 Pulse Generator. It may prove a fairly easy fit to your motor block. Personally I have no experience of this but others on here may have some to share.Think will sort out the decoder and speaker after pay day in March
Make sure you get the screw-axle model! - Don't ask!!
I have two here. - Loco's and axles.. Let me dig the pictures out a little later..
idlemarvel
Neither idle nor a marvel
I was after one of these locos preferably with sound fitted when I saw an LGB 22801 on ebay for £250 with this description: “This particular loco is fitted with LGB radio control with sound and smoke (set to address: L00)”.
AFAIK there is no such thing as LGB radio control and no idea what address L00 is but I took a punt and bought it. I guessed they could mean radio control from handset to base DCC command station. At worst it would be some RC lash-up but it wasn’t a bad price for a second hand loco and I could probably re-use the speaker.
As it turned out when I opened it up it had an Massoth XLS decoder fitted, set to address 3, and even had a volume control potentiometer concealed behind the boiler door. It was all very professionally fitted, although the decoder was set to fixed volume not external potentiometer but a small CV adjustment and off it went, chuffing away.
It had a strange on/off switch one of the side water tanks which when I traced the wires back turned out to be on/off for the smoke generator. The smoke generator was hard wired to the track contacts, it would have been better to connect it to the decoder and have it switched by function key, not sure how they fare with DCC track voltage. I just removed the whole smoke generator, IMO the basic ones are a waste of space as they make too much smell indoors and you can hardly see it outdoors. Pulsed smoke generators are another story but expensive.
So all in all it turned out to be a bargain. I’ll put up another posting on how to open this loco and install a decoder, as I couldn’t find a “how to” anywhere else on the Internet.
AFAIK there is no such thing as LGB radio control and no idea what address L00 is but I took a punt and bought it. I guessed they could mean radio control from handset to base DCC command station. At worst it would be some RC lash-up but it wasn’t a bad price for a second hand loco and I could probably re-use the speaker.
As it turned out when I opened it up it had an Massoth XLS decoder fitted, set to address 3, and even had a volume control potentiometer concealed behind the boiler door. It was all very professionally fitted, although the decoder was set to fixed volume not external potentiometer but a small CV adjustment and off it went, chuffing away.
It had a strange on/off switch one of the side water tanks which when I traced the wires back turned out to be on/off for the smoke generator. The smoke generator was hard wired to the track contacts, it would have been better to connect it to the decoder and have it switched by function key, not sure how they fare with DCC track voltage. I just removed the whole smoke generator, IMO the basic ones are a waste of space as they make too much smell indoors and you can hardly see it outdoors. Pulsed smoke generators are another story but expensive.
So all in all it turned out to be a bargain. I’ll put up another posting on how to open this loco and install a decoder, as I couldn’t find a “how to” anywhere else on the Internet.
D
Deleted member 1986
Guest
idlemarvel
Neither idle nor a marvel
Thanks Arthur, I keep forgetting there are more examples on the Massoth German language web site. Doesn't show how to open the loco though.
idlemarvel
Neither idle nor a marvel
Fitting an XLS decoder to 22801 with 6 pin DCC interface
I obtained this loco with the XLS decoder already fitted but this is how it was done as far as I can tell. Note this is for a model with 6 pin digital interface, other models may have different or even no provision for fitting a decoder, and some already have a factory fitted MTS decoder.
Turn loco on back and remove these five screws: two are under the rear coupler, one is under the front coupler and two at the side which you have to reach between the crankshafts.
Then turn back over and lift off body, being careful to unplug the hose at the side of the left hand side water tanks, shown in the exploded parts diagram below.
Best place for the decoder is on top of the weight next to the DC circuitry. If you get a Massoth 6-pin decoder interface plug it makes life easier (eMOTION LGB Interface Cable 6pin 8312061). Connect the 6 wires from the plug and the 4 motor/track wires (yellow/green/white/brown). Plug in the speaker.
You can install the speaker inside the front of the boiler. I understand you can get a mounting from Massoth (8314401 Loudspeaker installation kit for LGB 2080S Loco) or just use some hot glue as in this example:
Also shown in the picture is the optional external potentiometer (8242010 XLS Poti PCB) fitted to the inner smoke box panel.
Place the body back on the chassis, taking care with the bottom cab door hinges, and the hose mentioned earlier, and not to trap any of the lighting wires. Turn the loco over and replace the screws taking care not to drop the screw under the front coupling into the boiler.
I obtained this loco with the XLS decoder already fitted but this is how it was done as far as I can tell. Note this is for a model with 6 pin digital interface, other models may have different or even no provision for fitting a decoder, and some already have a factory fitted MTS decoder.
Turn loco on back and remove these five screws: two are under the rear coupler, one is under the front coupler and two at the side which you have to reach between the crankshafts.
Then turn back over and lift off body, being careful to unplug the hose at the side of the left hand side water tanks, shown in the exploded parts diagram below.
Best place for the decoder is on top of the weight next to the DC circuitry. If you get a Massoth 6-pin decoder interface plug it makes life easier (eMOTION LGB Interface Cable 6pin 8312061). Connect the 6 wires from the plug and the 4 motor/track wires (yellow/green/white/brown). Plug in the speaker.
You can install the speaker inside the front of the boiler. I understand you can get a mounting from Massoth (8314401 Loudspeaker installation kit for LGB 2080S Loco) or just use some hot glue as in this example:
Also shown in the picture is the optional external potentiometer (8242010 XLS Poti PCB) fitted to the inner smoke box panel.
Place the body back on the chassis, taking care with the bottom cab door hinges, and the hose mentioned earlier, and not to trap any of the lighting wires. Turn the loco over and replace the screws taking care not to drop the screw under the front coupling into the boiler.
stockers
Trains, aircraft, models, walking, beer, travel
Some people consider it, rightly or wrongly, unwise to wire a smoke unit direct to the decoder. The current demand may be too high for the decoder, especially in the smoke units last moments before going 'pop', when current demand can be quite high - hence your switch, which seems to me a sensible alternative.,
idlemarvel
Neither idle nor a marvel
I hadn't heard any advice to not connect a smoke generator to a decoder before but I can see that it might be a problem, I think I'll write to Massoth and see what they say. There is a current limit to all the "non-motor" outputs on a decoder, in the case of an XLS it is 1A in total and 300mA per output. As I said earlier I think the standard smoke generators are pretty useless and the pulsed one (at least the Massoth digital pulsed generator) takes its own power from the track and has its own decoder.
idlemarvel
Neither idle nor a marvel
Quick response from Peter Ting @ Massoth:
"You can connect a standard smoke generator to output A1-A4.
But it is important to set the right voltage before (Dimming)."
So no issue if you configure it properly to match the voltage of the smoke generator.
