CS3 Isolated Track

[TTNUT]

Hi, i want to isolate 2 sidings through a simple switch to allow locomotive's to be added/removed from track while the rest of my layout remains live and running. Is this possible using the 1015 T or 1015 U track pieces ? If so would someone be kind enough to draw me a simple diagram.

 

[ntpntpntp]

Do you mean just a simple on/off switch? You're not talking about a DCC programming track?

If it's a siding all you need is to add an isolating joiner to one rail and feed power to that rail via a single pole on/off switch. If it's a section of track in the middle of a through line then you need an isolating joiner in one rail at each end (the same rail of course).

I did this with my line as it was designed to be used with either DC or DCC. I wanted to be able to isolate and park trains on DC, and yes it's also very useful to kill the track power while setting out or removing stock from the track. I used waterproof switch boxes to power the isolated sections. Here are a couple of photos during construction (hence track floating in the air in places )

 

[phils2um]

What Nick says is correct. However, since you are running DCC(mfx) I'd recommend you isolate both rails to your sidings even though you could get by isolating just one of the rails. Here is the sketch using a "simple switch" you requested:



Make sure your DPST switch is rated for at least 10A. What is inside the black dashed circle is the LGB isolating track piece in your first picture. The current part no. is 10152. I cannot remember if this is the same as the 1015U or 1015T.

 

[TTNUT]

Do you mean just a simple on/off switch? You're not talking about a DCC programming track?

If it's a siding all you need is to add an isolating joiner to one rail and feed power to that rail via a single pole on/off switch. If it's a section of track in the middle of a through line then you need an isolating joiner in one rail at each end (the same rail of course).

I did this with my line as it was designed to be used with either DC or DCC. I wanted to be able to isolate and park trains on DC, and yes it's also very useful to kill the track power while setting out or removing stock from the track. I used waterproof switch boxes to power the isolated sections. Here are a couple of photos during construction (hence track floating in the air in places )
View attachment 300897
View attachment 300898

Hi Nick, thanks for your reply, I already have my 2 of my 4 sidings isolated on a simple rocker switch as you described on one rail only. There needs to be isolation on both rails as per Phil's 2 um post diagram. As Phil has quoted I am using MFX and DCC, hence the need for both tracks to be isolated. Many thanks for your reply and time, oh and happy railway running.

 

[TTNUT]

What Nick says is correct. However, since you are running DCC(mfx) I'd recommend you isolate both rails to your sidings even though you could get by isolating just one of the rails. Here is the sketch using a "simple switch" you requested:

View attachment 300917

Make sure your DPST switch is rated for at least 10A. What is inside the black dashed circle is the LGB isolating track piece in your first picture. The current part no. is 10152. I cannot remember if this is the same as the 1015U or 1015T.

Hi Phil, you have answered a previous question of mine regarding Massoth decoders and how to programme them using the CS3, which was excellent advice. It seems I am here again cap in hand ! Thanks for the diagram you posted, that is exactly what I was looking for. I did previously only isolate one rail on a simple rocker switch, but found it was causing electrickery problems elsewhere on my layout. Thankyou once again Phil for your excellent advice, happy railway running, Baz

 

[Andrew_au]

The current part no. is 10152.

Note that the 10152 is hideously expensive for what it does. You can get the same effect from a pair of insulated rail joiners (e.g. LGB 10260 or Massoth 8102520)

 

[dunnyrail]

Note that the 10152 is hideously expensive for what it does. You can get the same effect from a pair of insulated rail joiners (e.g. LGB 10260 or Massoth 8102520)

Indeed it is, but if you want simple wire in connections they are very good. Another good option are Massoth or other makes of Isolating clamps. Using the screw tightener and loops at the end of the wire is also a good option. I tend to solder up the loops making them by winding the wire round a suitable sized screwdriver then having the solder to keep the wire loop neat. Some woukd decry this method but it served me well in the garden over near 2 decades.